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Improving Braking

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  #11  
Old 06-11-2009, 12:09 AM
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Sorry, mine is a '97. I've thought about drilled and slotted rotors but didn't know about the brake line change. About how much are the brake lines?
 
  #12  
Old 06-11-2009, 07:14 AM
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Originally Posted by MarvelVT
Sorry, mine is a '97. I've thought about drilled and slotted rotors but didn't know about the brake line change. About how much are the brake lines?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/ABP214.cfm
 
  #13  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:21 AM
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If you wheel in mud, or even just go offroad a lot, consider that the crossed drilled are more likely to get debris trapped in the holes than just dimpled.
 
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:57 AM
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In 7 years I have only had one rotor that got mud in a few of the drilled holes, easy enough to clean and and a small price for the extra stopping power.
 
  #15  
Old 06-11-2009, 09:05 AM
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Originally Posted by kenk
Aren't they the same?
Rear are the same, fronts are different.

Originally Posted by RoveringAgain
With "factory rubber lines" you can look at the line and tell if you have cracks, leaks, the fitting coming loose, all the failure modes are readily discernable by visual inspection.
How do you tell visually that they are swollen internally?
 
  #16  
Old 06-11-2009, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Disco Mike
In 7 years I have only had one rotor that got mud in a few of the drilled holes, easy enough to clean and and a small price for the extra stopping power.
I sank my truck and got the rears filled with mud. It was a ways to the car wash and I felt like I was killing my rear brakes. The fronts(dimpled) cleaned themselves out. How much more stopping power do you get with cross drilled over dimpled?
 
  #17  
Old 06-11-2009, 02:50 PM
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"Cross drilled" rotors are another pet peave...

They originated on race cars, and those, my friends were NOT cross drilled -- the holes were cast into the blank. If you drill or slot the rotor, you break the crystaline structure of the metal, and will induce stress cracks from repeated heating and cooling, and they WILL "chunk" under just the wrong circumstances.

The only cure for that is to radius the hole, then anneal and re-heat treat the metal, preferably followed by cryo treatment.

Guran-damn-tee you that the rotors you see out there are not made this way. Not at the prices offered.

Oh -- the lifted Rover question earlier, there's a great place in Portland called Oil Filter Services (and I know for fact that there are similar places in Houston, Phoenix, and northern New Jersey) that will make up hoses on demand in any length desired.

When a rubber hose balloons, you can SEE that. And you should be looking under your rig from time to time to make sure all is well, right? If you have a stainless braid covered teflon hose, you have ZERO visibility into what's going on under the braid, until it's too late.
 
  #18  
Old 06-12-2009, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by RoveringAgain
When a rubber hose balloons, you can SEE that.
Externally, yes. Not when they swell internally, which they do. And it's the internal swelling that causes loss of braking efficiency more than external.
 

Last edited by antichrist; 06-12-2009 at 09:19 AM.
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