Installing catback exhaust in driveway w/o lift: Yay or Nay?
The exhaust is original and I am getting P0430--cats are shot. Thinking of doing the full job in my driveway. My Disco has a 2" lift and I can raise it up some more, but not a whole lot. Doable? What's your verdict? Thank you, --mc
Easy, I just put a new stock cat-back on, cats out and new O2s.
If you're replacing the cats, the front crossmember must come out, 8 bolts per side, and in plain sight.
The muffler is held to the cats with 2 bolts, and 3 bolts to the tail pipe.
The muffler has a rubber hanger on each end, so both ends can be unbloted from it.
1 rubber hanger near the tailpipe end and resonator.
Unbolt the torsion bar that runs from rear differential to driver side of frame. Remove the nut/bolt at the frame side, 20mm and 22mm. The bar will swing down out of the way.
Once it's all unbolted, put a jack with a block of wood(for heigth) under the driver side rear frame, in front of the factory shipping loop. Jack up the suspension, all 4 wheels stay on the ground.
You'll see the gap above the axle where the pipe comes through open up.
Pull the tail pipe out and turn it so it clears the axle(it was jacked up so the bend in the pipe clears the axle).
You don't even need to get under the D2, just jack it up and lay behind it, and grab, turn and pull the pipe.
I use jackstands every time I'm under a vehicle, but since the suspension is what's going up, and you don't need to be under it, jackstands aren't needed.
Installation is the opposite.
Worst part of the job may be rusted bolts, so a reciprocating saw to cut the old pipe may help.
Otherwise, one of the easiest exhausts there is to replace, especially on the ground with no lift!
Good luck!
If you're replacing the cats, the front crossmember must come out, 8 bolts per side, and in plain sight.
The muffler is held to the cats with 2 bolts, and 3 bolts to the tail pipe.
The muffler has a rubber hanger on each end, so both ends can be unbloted from it.
1 rubber hanger near the tailpipe end and resonator.
Unbolt the torsion bar that runs from rear differential to driver side of frame. Remove the nut/bolt at the frame side, 20mm and 22mm. The bar will swing down out of the way.
Once it's all unbolted, put a jack with a block of wood(for heigth) under the driver side rear frame, in front of the factory shipping loop. Jack up the suspension, all 4 wheels stay on the ground.
You'll see the gap above the axle where the pipe comes through open up.
Pull the tail pipe out and turn it so it clears the axle(it was jacked up so the bend in the pipe clears the axle).
You don't even need to get under the D2, just jack it up and lay behind it, and grab, turn and pull the pipe.
I use jackstands every time I'm under a vehicle, but since the suspension is what's going up, and you don't need to be under it, jackstands aren't needed.
Installation is the opposite.
Worst part of the job may be rusted bolts, so a reciprocating saw to cut the old pipe may help.
Otherwise, one of the easiest exhausts there is to replace, especially on the ground with no lift!
Good luck!
Last edited by Sixpack577; Jul 11, 2018 at 06:42 PM.
Did mine in the driveway, entire exhaust system and never lifted it higher than the 2 inch lift already installed. X2 on the PB Blaster pregame. I also used a torch and grinder but that was at the header end. I remember thinking it would have been a breeze if it was just the back 1/2.
Start early, plan for a few hours and have beer on hand to celebrate the small victories or drown your woes!
Start early, plan for a few hours and have beer on hand to celebrate the small victories or drown your woes!
Sounds good. I am hopeful!
Last weekend, I dropped both sides of the exhaust to get my CPS replaced, so the bolts are in a good condition. Will soak the rest overnight.
Last weekend, I dropped both sides of the exhaust to get my CPS replaced, so the bolts are in a good condition. Will soak the rest overnight.
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