This next week I have a long list of fixes for my '03. I need to do front rotors and pads, and new seals on the master cylinder. I am going to get the autocom so I can bleed the abs and the brakes. I need to put anti sieze on the front ABS Sensors.

My truck is not lifted, but I have stainless steel brake lines that I bought when it was lifted. I went back to stock as I live in the city, and having a tall vehicle is just impractical.

First question is, how difficult is changing the brake lines? The current are not leaking, so it is not a critical fix or anything. As long as I have the tires off I would not mind changing them though. If it is going to add 8-12 hours of struggling with them I think I will wait until it is warm. What has been everyone's experience with this job? is it manageable?

Also, the longer lines are for the front right?

 

Brake lines are generally easy.
key word there being generally, seeing your location and your mileage, I'm gonna recommend you use an disgusting amount of rust penetrant (PB, WD, whatever floats your boat). Read last line of signature.

Also, the correct wrench will go an extremely long way to getting them off no problem.

 

Took me longer to bleed the lines then install them! Since you'll have to bleed them anyways because you are messing with the master, I would change them. Remember to soak the connections in pb blaster beforehand. Pretty easy job though. Maybe 20-30 mins per line.

 

i would have to agree as long as your their change them

 

Thanks to everyone who responded. I will get the Deep Creep and see how that works.

What is the correct wrench? Flare wrench?

 

good quaility flarenut wrench

 

Yea, what this guy said.

 

Can someone please point me in the direction of the correct brake bleed procedure? I am not messing with the master - simply changing pads, rotors and adding SS brake lines.

I thought the procedure was simply start at the RR wheel, have a helper pump the brake 3 times, hold, I open the screw, let it flow, repeat until steady flow and no bubbles.

Then I read somewhere about putting into 4 low, driving, parking, leaving ignition on, something to do something with the ABS to allow a bleed.

Thoroughly confused now. Thanks.

 

I just replaced my master cylinder and ABS modulator. I started by bleeding just the master on the bench. Then I bled the lines between master and the modulator by just cracking the modulator size nut open and closing it. Then I bled the lines leading out of the master the same way. Then I did it the old fashioned way, starting with the brake closest to the master and working my way to the farthest. Brakes are a touch soft, but I can get that out with more bleeding I think. It stops fine as is. Doing it the old fashioned way works fine. An ABS scanner helps, but its not necessary.

 

So, if all I do is have someone pump and hold the pedal while I am working the bleed screw at each wheel, can I get a good pedal?

Or, is there something people do to jumper or bypass or in some way shape or form, modify the ABS unit to get a better bleed?

I am not messing with the master - only working at the wheels, so no air should enter near the master or ABS unit.