Feel free to skip the backstory and head right down to the numbered questions if you want.

My D1 that I bought a few months back is running pretty well now. My attention has turned to the sound system. It had a crappily done Frankenstein system in there. I think the car was once repo'd and someones nice stereo was removed in a HURRY. A lot of the trim peices will attest to that. Sheesh.

So, I removed all the bad stuff and I was left with this:

• No head unit, and the harness hacked off. (Things were duct-taped, wire-nutted, soldiered, and just hanging out there...I should have taken a photo.)
• Two front speakers and tweeters in seemingly good shape.
• 1 of the back speakers is missing, other looks broken.
• Sub attached to door. Unknown condition.
• Amp, left by previous owner.
• 10" JBL sub left by the previous owner.
• Decent aftermarket speaker wire running to 4 speakers. Unsure of Tweeters and Sub.

I also have a decent Pioneer deck that I'll use to replace the broken aftermarket deck someone had jammed (literally) in there. If I can get the door sub working and I like the sound, I'll skip using the amp and sub that were left in the truck.

I finally found a wiring diagram for the radio, and a wiring color decoder since I have no harness. First thing I did was take my lablemaker out there and labeled everything I could.

I was able to get the deck powered up, and tested the two front speakers. Sounds good. I imagine that the back speakers (once they're replaced) will be as easy to hook up.

So, on to the questions.

1. Subwoofer on door. My deck installation manual shows a 12v Remote cable coming out. I suppose I use that for the on-door sub. But what else connects there. My deck has Right and Left front and Back. Which sound signal wires should I sent to my sub?
2. Aftermarket Subwoofer. In case I want to use my third party subwoofer as well (we're not base addicts...but I like to play my Drum Corps International recordings as loud as my ears can take sometimes) what should I use as the remote for the aftermarket amp? Can I use the same 12V remote? It just wakes things up right? Of course my aftermarket sub will be powered straight from the battery.
3. Tweeters. I happen to have a set of Clarion Crossovers which I don't know much about. My tweeters are stock, but these little crossovers are the same ones that are sold here. Should I use them? I understand that these little boxes just sort out the highs and lows. So, I'll send the highs to the tweets, and then the full range on to the door speakers, I guess. Anyone have experience with these?
4. On Dash controls. My deck has a wired remote jack. Without doing any real research here, I suppose I can buy the jack for it and find a readout for the wires. Then hook the appropriate wires from the jack to the appropriate wires to the land rover functions, and things should work right? At least the simple functions like VOL+ and VOL-.

Any input or tips will be appreciated.

 

Contact Rover Chris, he is a expert at this stuff.

 

OK I will do my best for you.

question 1. yes a remote turn on wire is a pretty light 12 volt signal to turn the amp on. I am not sure if the sub amp (mounted to the back of the 2 subs in the rear door) has a built in low pass filter (I would think it does). if it does any signal will be fine (keep in mind if your bass is in the right channel only and you hook up the left you will lose it (I would suggest trying to use an RCA output if you have one). I personally would go aftermarket if you are unsure of the current condition of the stock subs. (I actually made a fiberglass enclosure to go where one of my jump seat is, you can search the forum for the posting to see the pictures)

question 2. as a general rule of thumb I would not hook up more than 2 components to a remote turn on wire as this can burn it out, if you need to hook up more than 2 components a relay will solve your problem. (I have a cooling fan on my amp which draws a decent amount of power so I wired a relay to turn the amp and fan on together)

question 3. your front speaker setup (as wired from the manufacturer) is wired in parallel, basically the same as a 2 way speaker with a tweeter mounted in the middle of the cone. the only thing you will do by wiring a passive crossover inline is separate the frequencies a little bit. pros and cons of this are those crossovers are tuned for the clarions not the factory speakers so the sound may not be competition quality, the pro would be it may extend the life of the speaker a little bit. also not sure on the wiring but it would most likely need to be rewired.

question 4. absolutely that is exactly what the wired remote jack is for, steering wheel controls. works on the same principal, but you would have to figure out how to wire up the steering wheel control interface as I have not tried to do this in our trucks.


well I hope this helps, if you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDeta...&CategoryID=29

 

I'm putting a Kenwood in my 96 D1. How did your install go? I'm trying to find the wiring diagram for that year and model, but no success. Can you let me know how yours went?

 

there is a wiring diagram floating around for the factory plugs, otherwise the rave manual explains it pretty well.

 

Hi toonew2know. I linked my wiring diagrams up above. You can also look at my lame wiki page about this install for more links and info. We're wiring up the same car, so it should be relevant. The wiring diagram in the rave, and the one linked there, as well as the color codes from the RangeRover manual got me going pretty quick. Label things, and you'll feel better.

 

Thanks Rover Chris. I appreciate your comments here. I'm having a fun crash course in car audio.

Last night I sorted out which was FR FL RR and RL pretty quick. I left the on-door sub alone for now, and used the RCA rear output from the deck to go to the aftermarket sub. I can tell I need a better sub, or need to mount is right or something, but it's working right, and sounds good. When I replace the back speakers I think things will start to fall into place.

After reading your comments, I looked more closely at the diagrams of how the tweeters are wired. You're right, and after wiring up the front two speakers, the tweeters are working great.

I even made a little aux input jack for my pioneer deck using some old computer case led connectors.

After I get everything installed and working, I'll fiddle around with the sub on the door. If it's not going to add anything, I may just remove it. I hate having non-working things like that staring at me. Maybe I'll just put other speakers in it, and wire them in parallel with the back speakers. Might have the use the amp for that.

 

I clicked on your links, but they froze at various points in the download. I have the rave man, but couldn't find the diagram. What page(s) are they on?
Can you send them to me directly, although I'm not quite sure how that works...

 

themgd: never mind about sending me the link. I switched to internet explorer and they opened just fine! Smile on my face again...

 

I completely agree with you and have been considering what I should do about my rear door subs since the day I bought my truck, they sounded blown the day I drove it home so the next day I rewired the whole audio system and never used them again. I had an old pair of JL audio 12" subs that I bought new in 97 so I wired up those however the box was bulky and the subs were ready for retirement so I spent about $200 or so on fiberglass materials and bought myself a new Infinity 12" sub and got to work. It took me a few weeks to build the box but now I have my entire cargo space, and can rattle the cars next to me if I am in the mood! I have been considering removing the rear door subs to mount a nice 4 channel alpine amp. then build some fiberglass kick panels to hold a nice set of components. Unfortunately that will be a while down the road as the rover itself has been demanding extra work and parts lately!

glad to hear your system is coming together, let me know how things go.