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Instrument cluster LED’s

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Old Mar 18, 2020 | 06:04 AM
  #11  
XRAD's Avatar
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yes Discorama, but trying to keep the explanation simple. Most 'ebay' LEDs are sold with a voltage label. Another way of looking at it is by the 470 Ohm resistors on all LED paths on the board in the pic. If we measure the V across the (+) and (-), then back calculate the V drop on the LED using baseline 20-25mA current for the LED. Would still like to know if the color window is in the panel, then these are probably all white LED....

white:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...SAAEgJlyfD_BwE

red:
https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...-mcd/320/1252/

They stock other colors too.....
 

Last edited by XRAD; Mar 18, 2020 at 06:44 AM.
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Old Mar 18, 2020 | 02:52 PM
  #12  
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Those "LEDs" on ebay with the "voltage label" are LED-assemblies. They have the series resistors already.

LEDs from superbrightleds.com work too. So far I made good experience with them and they are good quality. The 5050 (5mm x 5mm) might be too big. The OP should measure the size of one of the existing LEDs to find out the size code.

The lights in question except the high beam light do not have color filters, so you need colored LEDs.
 

Last edited by Discorama; Mar 18, 2020 at 03:31 PM.
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Old Mar 24, 2020 | 05:56 PM
  #13  
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Just removed the gauge cluster, and as suspected the PO did the same thing to mine, CEL LED cut right out. The thing that pisses me off about it is that the only thing that was throwing a code was the purge valve, a $25 dollar part that took 10 minutes to swap out, it took longer to remove the gauges that replace the purge valve! At any rate, a question: How do I remove the dial faces from the gauge cluster to get access to the front of the circuit board? I see on the OP's pictures the dials are still on so it looks like they come off as one unit.
 

Last edited by greisinb; Mar 25, 2020 at 08:47 AM.
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Old Mar 25, 2020 | 12:04 PM
  #14  
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OK, I got the cluster apart, it was very easy, kind of embarrassed I even had to ask, just had to undo the 4 sets of 4 screws on the back side. Here is some additional information you may find helpful:

LED Resistor Size: 470 ohms
Red LED Voltage Drop: 1.7V
LED Orientation: Annode (positive side) on TOP

Additional Math:
Based upon the size of the resistor the supply voltage to the LED is probably (although no absolute guarantees) 5V. A 5V supply through a 470 ohm resistor would indicate a 10 mA current draw, which is right in the ballpark for a small single LED. A 12V supply would put current consumption at 25mA which is getting pretty high (although not outside the realm of possibility). A quick experiment I did with 2 multi meters seems to confirm the 10 mA suspicion, although my current reading clamp meter isn't really suited for very low currents.

Ultimately I'm going to solder in a though hole LED (because I have one on hand) even though it will stand a little proud of the board it shouldn't be a problem because the light is projected along a tunnel which gives lots of head room. I'm just going to use a run of the mill 5mm red hobby LED (forward voltage drop measured to be 1.8V) which I think will do the trick. I'll let you know how it goes...
 
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Old Mar 27, 2020 | 05:07 PM
  #15  
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Update on my install: Success! Photos posted below of the led install and the resulting light. The photo doesn’t make it terribly obvious but the light isn’t quite as bright (I would say it’s at 75%) as the other ones and not quite as diffuse, but it works plenty well!



 

Last edited by greisinb; Mar 27, 2020 at 06:30 PM.
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