yes closed cell ....gorrilla iirc. made sure it was closed so no absorption. I didn't like the rear frame bend and its exit points were insufficient, imo.

 

More or less a variation on the waxoyl theme. BTW you can buy waxoyl from Rovers North and achieve similar ends.

Corrosion Prevention | Waxoyl USA

The key, as with any painting or rustproofing, is in the prep. That's one of the reasons why shops that offer waxoyl are as expensive as they are. It's not the time spend applying the waxoyl that runs the bill up, it's the prep.

 

Looking to use corroseal for the outside. Not sure yet what to do for the inside. My frame is showing signs of surface rust and I'd like to hault the process at that (no holes yet). If the foam injected stuff is the answer, so be it, but I certainly don't want to buy a new frame.

 

My brother has an 04 and I have an 01 and the difference is crazy. Both are in the desert, his is rusted and mine still none at all. If I did start to rust bad I would swap to a galv frame, especially after all the work I've put into it.


ZG could you post a link to that stuff Paul is talking about? I may want to spray my new diffs with it.

 

Having lived in the UK and owned British and French cars of the 70s, I've figured out a few things about fighting rust.

Firstly, underseal is there to protect the paint from physical abrasion, not to prevent rust. The paint does the prevention, providing the moisture-proof layer.

So to protect against corrosion properly : remove all the rust you can, treat with rust converter, apply several layers of a good paint (Rustoleum works great), followed by underseal.

The very worst thing you can do is put underseal straight over rust. It seals the moisture in.

 

Waxoyl USA Corrosion and Rust Protection for your Automobile. Clean. Protect. Preserve. - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts


I carry a can of black hardwax with me for every time I scrape off something on my sliders/ bumpers

 

Sweet, thanks, I'm going to buy a few cans tonight.


Thanks again,
Dane.

 

This is the one you want...just be careful when spraying

WAXOYL BLACK HARDWAX, 500ml AEROSOL CAN, RNW5006 - Rovers North - Classic Land Rover Parts

 

I have been thinking about SprayOn LU710. It appears to be a very similar product, but cheaper.

 

Unfortunately as long as I can remember Landrover chassis has rotted from my Series 2 to the D2 and RRS. I rebuilt my Series 2A back in the 1970's and welded on a new rear crossmember. The modern chassis is of poorer quality and thickness than the early LR's but if the chassis is treated with Waxoyl or similar from near new they last longer. Mud and winter road salt seem to do the most damage fastest. Galvanised chassis has been around for LR's for 30-40 years but to strip out a body on a D2, RR or RRS has to be soul destroying. I stripped down my old Series 2A to a nut and bolt refurb including the engine and transmissions and that was no picnic but the modern LR's will be a nightmare. I also believe many LR's in the 90's and 2000's have been poorly cleaned and serviced which has led to many corrosion problems whereas most enthusiasts look after their trucks many who use them as a drive to work or shopping trolley don't look after the 'invisible' parts of the truck and only need a shiny bodywork. I can agree with MarkSF that many early cars were total rust buckets, Austin Allegro, Austin Mini, Morris 1100, Ford Escorts and Cortina's, Capri's etc, etc and the countless French mobile junk yards on the roads many of them were Renaults. The Rover V8 P6 and V8 SD1 were also rust buckets although good to drive in those days. I believe one can get too neurotic about D2's and their shortcomings which in my experience applies to many everyday cars also. I remember my BMW ZM3 engine letting go at about 80mph downhill and spewing oil all over the rear tyres and road due to a manufacturing or design defect in the engine - it nearly killed me. I can equally remember my brand new shiny yellow Ford Capri Mk1 after a year it had rust spots all over the bodywork where the shell had been stored outside before painting. It looked like a custard pudding with smallpox and Ford didn't think it was a problem . Even Birmabright alloy body panels on the early LR's used to corrode alarmingly and also react very badly with the steel frames behind the panels vis the Series 2's & 3's. Remember the Series and Defender bulkheads and the corrosion around the top of them local the the top door hinges and the front floorpan's that fell off that brought a whole new meaning to the word 'footbrake'. LOL