Issues with New O2 Sensors
#11
The sensors I bought are exact fit for the Discovery, the part number is the same as listed on Amazon and referenced through the forum. They were in Black Bosch boxes and came with a warranty. It sucks they crapped out a day after putting them in, but these sorts of things happen.
I doubt there is a corporate conspiracy at Autozone to sell defective or incorrect parts to everyone who doesn't drive a Ford or Chevy.
I doubt there is a corporate conspiracy at Autozone to sell defective or incorrect parts to everyone who doesn't drive a Ford or Chevy.
#12
Like when I prank called them at age 16 (working at Western Auto at the time) looking for valve cover gaskets for a Mazda RX7.....and was told they had them in stock?
#13
I replaced the Bank 1 sensor 1 in my 2001 D2.
No issues.
The code simply went away.
You should check your wiring harnesses and clean the connectors.
Make sure nothing is melted.
IF the boxes are the same Bosch boxes - should be just fine.
I strongly doubt pulling the battery will make any difference.
The ECU scans the sensors - period.
And upon key on - 12 volts are applied to the sensor heaters.
That's about it.
No issues.
The code simply went away.
You should check your wiring harnesses and clean the connectors.
Make sure nothing is melted.
IF the boxes are the same Bosch boxes - should be just fine.
I strongly doubt pulling the battery will make any difference.
The ECU scans the sensors - period.
And upon key on - 12 volts are applied to the sensor heaters.
That's about it.
#14
Nothing is melted, and both connectors are as clean as they will ever be. I went at them with brake cleaner, then electric cleaner and Q-tips. I used some dielectric goop when hooking the sensors back up. It cleared the 1174/0174 codes but not the 150/130 codes.
I have the wires ziptied away from anything hot that could melt them.
I think I just got 2 bad sensors. The way they gradually failed seems to lean towards that. I'm going to see if I can get my money back and if so I'll order new ones from Amazon.
Either:
or
I have the wires ziptied away from anything hot that could melt them.
I think I just got 2 bad sensors. The way they gradually failed seems to lean towards that. I'm going to see if I can get my money back and if so I'll order new ones from Amazon.
Either:
or
#15
look I'm not telling you i have the answer. or that I can even explain it. but for two or tree weeks my new sensor was reading all zeros. I was getting a fault code. I had finally determined after cleaning everything and checking everything that I must have a bad spot in my harness. when it would give a reading it would always say .445 which is what both my trucks read cold at start up. I was also getting a 1129(I think) code, which is swapped 02 sensors. now if you've ever changed your 02s you know you can't just hook them up wrong. the harness doesn't reach. not to mention there is no way for the computer to know what pipe a sensor is screwed into. even disco mike was perplexed by this code. after about 30 minutes unplugged while I cleaned my terminals it started switch lean/rich and worked ever since. I cleared the codes and no more problems the next day I swapped bank 2 upstream and it stated functioning right away. and thnen I cleared that code and all is well in roverville. there is a chance that the computer had a glitch in it. I have had another car with a similar computer problem. since the repair was accidental, I wasn't paying enough attention to explain what or when. but unhooking the battery for some reason fixed it. may not work for anyone else..I cant say
#17
#19
Just be careful leaving a battery unhooked too long some guys gave had things run weird afterword i have heard..don't know much about it...that's why i said i may get yelled at for suggesting it.... I don't see how it's any different than a dead battery or UN hooking for a head gasket job
Last edited by suzukisam967m; 10-16-2012 at 04:08 PM.
#20
yeah, I guess rebooting the ECU could not hurt..
If it reboots.
you could take off the (+) lead and then ground the (+) lead to the (-)
and make sure that all residual in the capacitors is gone.
The ECU may have a capacitor for keep alive that maintains voltage for n number of minutes..
Sure acts like you have a wiring problem.
Replace the fuses for the heater current..
And - clear all the codes first.. Just to be sure.
If it reboots.
you could take off the (+) lead and then ground the (+) lead to the (-)
and make sure that all residual in the capacitors is gone.
The ECU may have a capacitor for keep alive that maintains voltage for n number of minutes..
Sure acts like you have a wiring problem.
Replace the fuses for the heater current..
And - clear all the codes first.. Just to be sure.