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quick update: unit arrived and looks reasonable. it came with a freebie backup camera that i will probably try to mount after the unit is in and functioning in all other ways. the first boot takes a little while but it's not too sluggish once it's simply suspending and resuming.
the harness that comes with it is plug and play to the rover harness -- or at least partially plug and play. the device boots and picks up fm stations but i'm not getting sound yet. i was able to connect to my home wifi and bluetooth to my phone, and it reads audio files from a usb drive. it comes with its own gps antenna but you would have to tether it to your phone to get live data. there's an external mic for the phone connection and a couple of usb extensions; i'm thinking of bringing one of the usb ports forward to an empty button space on the rover so i have a way to plug in my phone without needing to leave a cable permanently mounted.
best of all, the lcd screen is a perfect fit for the space in the rover dashboard. with the mounting pegs in the default central position, the screen extends a half-din height above and below the body of the radio, so there will be no need for an additional blanking spacer.
i'm now looking at the wiring pin-outs for the rover plugs and the new harness. i believe it should even be possible to retain the steering wheel controls without needing an extra harness. once i've got things working i'll post up some findings along with a few pics of the installation.
If you have the high end audio option, there's a gray wire with a green stripe from the head unit to the amplifier that turns the amp on when the radio is turned on. The connector and pin is C0922-9. I believe that's supposed to be connected to the AMP-CONT wire on the new unit.
Last edited by Jason Feuerstein; Nov 25, 2019 at 11:17 AM.
thanks!! that's exactly the kind of detail i have been trying to track down.
with that one and the two from the wheel controls, i think everything should be good to go.
So it's in and (mostly) working. I still have some tinkering to do to get the steering wheel controls operational. It's also EXTREMELY loud and there's some hiss from the factory amp. Fits perfectly without needing additional blanking plate! The original factory retainer sleeve can be removed. It should be possible to do so from the front by prying the two side clips inwards. This is the original retainer sleeve viewed from the front side, showing one of the side clips. I enlarged one of the holes in the fascia in order to be able to pass a USB extension through. A flash drive will plug into it and sit happily on the little shelf, under the head unit and behind the screen. The harness that comes with the device accepts the two main plugs from the Disco. However, the system-enable wire has to be connected to the ANT-CONT wire from the new unit. The AMP-CONT wire doesn't activate the factory amp.
So it's in and (mostly) working. I still have some tinkering to do to get the steering wheel controls operational. It's also EXTREMELY loud and there's some hiss from the factory amp.
Fits perfectly without needing additional blanking plate!
The original factory retainer sleeve can be removed. It should be possible to do so from the front by prying the two side clips inwards.
This is the original retainer sleeve viewed from the front side, showing one of the side clips.
I enlarged one of the holes in the fascia in order to be able to pass a USB extension through. A flash drive will plug into it and sit happily on the little shelf, under the head unit and behind the screen.
The harness that comes with the device accepts the two main plugs from the Disco. However, the system-enable wire has to be connected to the ANT-CONT wire from the new unit. The AMP-CONT wire doesn't activate the factory amp.
It's going to be loud because you have the internal amp in the head unit connected in series to the external amp. If you want to do it so that doesn't happen, you need to use the pre-amp outputs and splice them into the wiring harness. That may also be why your AMP-CONT wire isn't working, but I don't know how Joying units determine when to activate that wire, so I can't say for certain.
It also looks like I identified the wrong wire as the amp turn on. That's the spatial imaging enable wire. Sorry about that.
Last edited by Jason Feuerstein; Nov 26, 2019 at 06:58 PM.
It's going to be loud because you have the internal amp in the head unit connected in series to the external amp. If you want to do it so that doesn't happen, you need to use the pre-amp outputs and splice them into the wiring harness.
I figured that that was probably the case. I will probably get the Metra harness to plug into the RCA outputs on the back of the head unit rather than trying to splice things and potentially mess up the factory wiring. The double-amp situation is probably what's causing the hiss as well.
There's a YouTube video somewhere on how to program it for the steering wheel controls
This unit actually comes with a simple setup app for configuring the wheel controls, but that's not the issue right now. I need to work out the correct wire connections before I try doing that bit, but I was concentrating on getting the rest of it operational first. I also want to install the aux mic and the GPS antenna now that the basics are working.
It's going to be loud because you have the internal amp in the head unit connected in series to the external amp. If you want to do it so that doesn't happen, you need to use the pre-amp outputs and splice them into the wiring harness. That may also be why your AMP-CONT wire isn't working, but I don't know how Joying units determine when to activate that wire, so I can't say for certain.
It also looks like I identified the wrong wire as the amp turn on. That's the spatial imaging enable wire. Sorry about that.
Not true for the volume issue. I use my Joying with my factory amp and it is fine. You need to go into the settings and set the volume adjustment down. There is a compensation setting to raise or lower the master volume.
For the steering wheel controls, you need to tap one of the radios control wires(labeled key 1 and key 2 I think) into one of the factory steering control wires(it does not matter which) and then run the other(key 1 or key 2) to ground.
The steering wheel controls are a ladder switch and change resistance when pressed different directions to differentiate inputs
I figured that the wheel controls were going to be something along those lines.
However, I couldn't find anything like what you're talking about for the master volume. Sitting in my driveway with the engine off, I have to have the volume on 1 or 2 (out of 38) for it to be a reasonable volume for listening. There was no overall master volume that I could see.
I had to dig around in my settings screen to find it. My unit has like 5 different setting screens(some are password protected, which you just email joying and they will give you the passwords) to do all the configurations. It was in the same area as the fade/balance settings I think
