Juddering going into 4th
#1
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Hi, new on here and just bought a 2002 D2 with 186k kms to be used as our towing car. Considering the age and kms, it's in good nick.
Issues that I need to sort (that I'm currently aware of):
- 3 amigos......not urgent
- balancing on front wheels (steering wheel judder at about 70km/h)
- oil leaks that are going to be fun to find
- judder from transmission
That's what I need some advice on. As the transmission moves to 4th gear (auto box), travelling at about 60km/h, it judder a until I pick up more speed. As I move past 75km/h it's fine. All other gears are fine. Tried looking through the forum, but can't see if anyone else has had a similar problem.
Any help out there?
Thanks
Dave
Issues that I need to sort (that I'm currently aware of):
- 3 amigos......not urgent
- balancing on front wheels (steering wheel judder at about 70km/h)
- oil leaks that are going to be fun to find
- judder from transmission
That's what I need some advice on. As the transmission moves to 4th gear (auto box), travelling at about 60km/h, it judder a until I pick up more speed. As I move past 75km/h it's fine. All other gears are fine. Tried looking through the forum, but can't see if anyone else has had a similar problem.
Any help out there?
Thanks
Dave
#2
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At a guess it could be the following:
Low on ATF or needs changing together with a new sump filter.
Cracked plate on the torque coverter.
Engine mountings need replacing usually give out at 80-100K miles.
Also check the front drive shaft (propshaft) at the cardan double UJ's for wear together with the rear propshaft and rubber rotoflex.
Start with the easier remedies, i.e. ATF level (which is checked with the engine running) and also the condition. If it smells of burning or is dark red to brown it needs to be changed along with the sump filter.
A cracked torque converter plate requires an auto gearbox removal and isn't a fun job.
Engine mounts is a relatively easy job and simple to check and install.
Low on ATF or needs changing together with a new sump filter.
Cracked plate on the torque coverter.
Engine mountings need replacing usually give out at 80-100K miles.
Also check the front drive shaft (propshaft) at the cardan double UJ's for wear together with the rear propshaft and rubber rotoflex.
Start with the easier remedies, i.e. ATF level (which is checked with the engine running) and also the condition. If it smells of burning or is dark red to brown it needs to be changed along with the sump filter.
A cracked torque converter plate requires an auto gearbox removal and isn't a fun job.
Engine mounts is a relatively easy job and simple to check and install.
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Georgebulldog (05-19-2015)
#3
#4
#5
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Torque converter lock up clutch is not locking up tight. Or you got some clutches slipping.
Believe it or not - replace the battery to get the voltage up and may be the alternator.
That way, when the transmission computer tries to "LOCK" a clutch, it has a stronger force to lock the clutch.
And try Lukas
Believe it or not - replace the battery to get the voltage up and may be the alternator.
That way, when the transmission computer tries to "LOCK" a clutch, it has a stronger force to lock the clutch.
And try Lukas
#6
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So done the ATF filter and fluid and still doing the same thing. SO I'm now assuming its the Torque convert plate (Drive plate?) that is now at fault. The amount of juddering in 4th can be quite bad on cold to hardly noticeable when warm, and only really between 60 and 80kph.
Time to get it to the autostore for a big bill I suppose - I don't have the skills, kit or inclination to remove the transmission!
Time to get it to the autostore for a big bill I suppose - I don't have the skills, kit or inclination to remove the transmission!
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