King, your are correct I clicked the link in a later post and missed the first part. Looks like Alex gave me some of the high points. I will need to read that after work, got to get something done today. If anybody can answer the T6 zinc question I would be grateful.

 

229k silent as can be. Darn Bosch Purge Valve was the loudest thing under the hood until I slapped on a Hyundai unit. She DOES NOT act or run like an old tired dog. I take it past 3k often, I don't baby it due to having 229k on it.

I've only owned one noisy ticking D2 and it's my 03 parts truck with starbucks extra mochachino blended oil in it....

I have run 15w40 oil in 05 Jeep Wranglers, 07 Hummer H3 I5, LR 4.0/4.6L engines and not a single one of them ticked at startup. Here in my climate 0w40 is to thin of an oil as we never see anything below 0F here. I've run 20w50 oil in my RRC I used to have and I owned it 6 years without a single issue.

I switched to Rotella as I read it cleaned better, had good zinc levels, and was available everywhere. I've yet to have any issues that would cause me alarm. "If" I lived some place with an actual winter I would run 5w40 Rotella during the winter.

I don't agree at all that 15w40 is to thick. Maybe during a hard winter sure, but LR even list 20w50 in the owners manual.

Change your oil often, use a larger filter and run whatever oil thru it you want, but a Buick 215 V8 is nothing like a Ferrari V8/V12 or something exotic it's more on the tractor side of the scale lol.

 

the science doesn't change just because the tolerances are larger on the Rover than the Ferrari. same physics apply across the board.

i don't baby mine either, that's how i know that Rotella was failing me. my scenario is undoubtedly different than the bulk of d2's because i dont have an oil cooler, but if the oil doesn't work, it doesn't work.

I think that the only reason you are still saying that 15w40 isnt too thick is because you haven't read or just refuse to accept that all oils are too thick at startup... every single one. the higher the cold weight, the longer it takes to reach an adequate viscosity to protect the wear surfaces. This is a mute point on an engine that has already lived a full life, 200k+. But what if everyone used this knowledge on their new or rebuilt engines, and saw 300-400k mileage without issues rather than pushing the limit at just over 200?

ford has spec'd 0w20-30 for years on their mod engines and there are many SOHC fords running around with well over 300k, cop cars and taxi's come to mind. these engines arent anything special either. actually, other than the valve train orientation, they are extremely similar to the Rover engine in that they are not tight tolerance race engines and are not constructed of high end components. even have similar power output to the 4.6 Rover in factory trim.

 

i have been using strait 30 and then 15/40 oil in everything i own for at least 25 years with no issues and extended drains....i ran a caddy eldo to 365k i have a disco 2 with 198k with no problems i have a Buick Park ave with a 3.8 supercharged engine that i bought with a rod rap i doped the pan replaced the rod bearings milling down the cap and bearing on cyl #5 back to specs that was 3 years ago i still haven't dropped the oil i have changed the filter twice the oil is still golden brown i,m always open to new technology but unless you have variable valve timing than you don't need o weight just my opinion

 

code: Delvac1 * Mobil1 EP * Delo400 * PenzLL * Rotella * Syntec * Esso XD3 * Esso XD3 * Penz
T(C) 5w40 * 10w40 * 15w40 * 15w40 * 15w40 * 5W50 * 0w30 * 0w40 5w30
-20 6339 4604 13924 9125 9347 4247 2962 3767 3078
-10 2430 1859 4581 3313 3371 1836 1250 1624 1241
0 1066 852 1776 1389 1406 886 595 783 570
10 523 433 788 656 662 469 313 415 292
20 282 240 391 342 344 269 179 238 163
30 164 143 213 194 194 164 109 146 98
40 102.0 91.0 125.0 118.0 118.0 106.4 71.0 94.5 63.2
50 67.1 60.9 78.5 76.1 76.0 72.2 48.4 64.3 42.8
60 46.2 42.6 52.1 51.6 51.4 51.1 34.5 45.6 30.2
70 33.2 30.9 36.2 36.5 36.4 37.4 25.4 33.5 22.2
80 24.6 23.2 26.2 26.8 26.7 28.3 19.4 25.4 16.9
90 18.9 17.9 19.6 20.3 20.2 21.9 15.1 19.7 13.1
100 14.8 14.2 15.1 15.8 15.7 17.4 12.1 15.7 10.5


This is a little old but the data is interesting. Note that temps are in Celsius not Fahrenheit

 

Well jump all over the 0w40. Not stopping ya at all, but in my neck of the woods when a cold start means an engine that's already sitting at over 100F due to ambient temps all that cold start stuff is worthless.

Like I said from the begining of this, if I was in a different climate my oil weights would be different.

D2's are a dime a dozen down here because 80% of em are DEAD. I own 5 and not a single one of them from 94k, 104k, 106k, 130k, to 229k are anywhere near dead. If Rotella was the killer with it's liquid concrete viscosity my V8's would have died a long long long time ago along with 2 4.0L I6 engines and a 3.7L I5. My RRC with 20w50 shouldn't have even turned over with it's metorite liquid concrete oil.

Oil has changed for sure with less zinc, and additives for newer designed engines with completely different specs.

"I" do not need an oil to flow like it's -25 to -30 out in Texas. I also remember back when I'm pretty sure the 15w40 oil wasn't designated as Diesel, but Fleet oil. Several companies I worked for required 15w40 oil to be used in all their fleet cars. I had a ford Ranger, and Chevy Astro van that got to 300k easy with that stuff. Once again however in Texas.

My brother moved from TX to OR and his RRC had 20w50 in it. When it got cold up there yep it ticked at startup. I told him to try 5w40 and boom during the winter it fires up silently now. In the summer he runs 15w40 and once again no cold startup ticking.

 

don't think anyone is arguing that rotella is going to make their engine grenade. lots of dead discos just north of you as well, doubt any of them died due to poor oil choices. my ambient temps are in the 90's and peak in the 100's every year as well. definitely see more winter weather though.

 

I've seen Intake Air Temps as high as 152F at idle in traffic, as well as going 75MPH at 132F. I've also seen it read a water temp of 107F from a cold start under my carport on mid summer day. Safe to say 4 seasons down here is a joke.

 

No arguments there, I knew there was a reason I didn't like Texas...other than the Cowboys haha.

 

Fine to have your own opinion but may have been better to give it after you you tested your new oil for a while and keep your conclusions to yourself.

The blog is filled with much smoke by the large headed writer. What the heck does using the AC for dehumidifying have to do with oil?

I'm not using Rotella in my D2, my current oil isn't even on his list and have no tick. Should I change it?

Good luck finding your new savior oil.
......