unless you live in Canada I dont think it would be an issue

 

Sorry - throttle body defrost kit - it's hard enough for me to speak English let alone remember what all these parts are called. Actually, mine is not leaking (I wish it had been as it's easy to replace) - what was leaking was the hose that leads from the defrost kit - where it connects to the intake manifold. I replaced the hose, but for some unknown reason, I put the old spring clamp back on it instead of a screw clamp. Guess what - it's still leaking there! Now I have to get the belt off and move the A/C compressor out of the way so I can put a proper clamp on. So a lesson to you guys (which you probably already know) - always replace those stupid clamps with good ones!

 

New data today while playing around. Temp on ScanGuage is up to 209 ... I feel the radiator and the only place it is hot is the top right side where the hose comes in. I can feel it very, very slowly coming toward the bottom and left, but it never really made it across. The left side of the radiator was cold, and the hose coming from the radiator to the thermostat was cold. All other hoses were rigid (not hard though) and hot (touch for a second or two).

I'm really leaning toward a clogged radiator since. It seems to me that the thermostat is opening, since i was starting to get a warming of the radiator, however since it was not warming fast at all, I'm thinking clogs. Make sense, or could it still just be the thermostat?

 

Bottom hose to thermostat will be the cooler of the three, it comes from the radiator. "Arm" hose is toward water pump, there is always some trickle of hot coolant going thru there, until stat opens up. Then it is a rush of cooler water. Top center hose is hot coolant that is forced down into stat thru some small holes to mix with cold inside the "chamber" and make stat open. Holes can clog up. If replacing stat, use an OEM, too many failures with aftermarket. Radiator clog is certainly a possibility, and try flushing, or have an indy radiator shop flush.

 

Well, played around with a coolant pressurizer today and fixed the leaks I knew I had, and found several others I didn't realize I had. Pressurized the system to 18 lbs - and after hours of looking around the engine, etc. The pressure would drop to 15 after about 7 minutes. I'm flabbergasted, wouldn't a leak that big be pretty noticeable? I don't see anything dripping down the back of the block or on the sides of the block. Huh.

Also - the cap didn't hold any pressure at all - not sure if it was truly shot, or if the adapter wasn't exactly right (it did say it was for BMWs - and that was the only one that fit it).

Okay, I'll admit one other thing - I began stripping the bleed screw hole - the screw still screws in and holds pressure, etc., however if you wanted to you could keep turning it around. I imagine you can't get this tee alone, but rather you have to spend $4.5M for some hose kit.

 

If you can't see the leak, it could be something besides a hose. Perhaps head gasket, valley pan gasket, water pump gasket, front cover gasket. Leaks out the back of engine are hard to see. Now if you only drop three pounds, and just sit there, not so bad.

Plain water boils at 212F, with 50:50 mix of green coolant, 225F with coolant cap off. With cap on, holding at 15 PSI, boiling point increases to 265F. Unlikely you will be hitting 265 hopefully.

Another way to detect small leaks, and check the test equipment, is to spray it with soapy water, just like an old inner tube. Tiny leaks will make bubbles.

 

Thanks Buzz! She drops to zero - didn't get wait to see how long. I think it's time to get some professional help (both the Rover and I). I'll get her in to Luke at The Shop at Norcross to get her squared away.

 

Broke, I work right off Jimmy Carter in Norcross. If you want you can swing it by the dealership and I'll take a quick look at it for you. I know all the usually places for leaks. I have an 03 D2 with SAI. Mine only has 101k and both my head gaskets were leaking in both places. I'm actually about 5 hours shy of finishing getting mine back together. If you're mechanically inclined enough to do the job yourself its worth looking at but if a shop is going to do the job for you, you might as well let them find the leak too because I'd just about bet 1 of your four coolant ports if not all are seeping coolant from the head gaskets. But let's hope not!

 

I think I have the same issue with the coolant, it is getting low very slowly. I'm attaching some pics from where I beleive the leak is.

For what I hav e read and looking at the drawings in the RAVE manual I beleiveis the throttle body heater, however I will need confirmation from a more experiencied member in the forum. Also how difficult is to replace this part?

Also if it is the throttle body heater, is that the name of the part I should ask the Land Rover dealer for? does anyone has the part number?

Thank you

 

DIY easy - see Throttle Body Heater Plate Kit | Land Rover And Range Rover Fuel System Parts