whats with all the secret phone calls, im waiting for my fax from kevman and an update via singing telegram from spike

 

Do you have a positive input for this poor guy? Or just sillyness?

 

The last time this happened my mechanic's customer he had to cut the door handle off.

 

Yikes

 

The battery problems may have caused the BCU and IDM to loose sync. Normally this is re-established by switching on ignition and leaving it for five minutes. The IDM runs all the door locks and more.

The lock motors are of course electric, and driven by the IDM on the back of the fuse block. It reverses polarity to make motor run toward lock or toward un-lock. Same for superlocks, which are separate motors. Wiring connectors all seem to be inside the truck.

The inertia switch should not unlock because truck is not running. The requirements are truck running and alarm disarmed. Perhaps the computers can be fooled by turning on the master relay, which powers up many sensors under the hood.

If you want to try this, the fuse box under hood has several relays. Remove R9, the "main relay". It has tiny numbers on it, looking for #30 and #87. Place a jumper (paper clip) in the socket at those two points. This won't make truck crank, it should just power up a lot of sub systems. Wait five minutes plus and see if unlocking works. IDM and BCU have to chit chat with each other.

 

Also, you'll need to locate connect C0449 under the hood. Find white wire on it. Apply +12 to that wire to simulate key in position 2 for BCU. See attached pix. What I'm trying to do is simulate the key turned on, not cranked, for the BCU. This may not work, because there is another "key in ignition" line to BCU, which might not be enabled. The goal is to get the IDM to respond to commands, either unlock or inertia switch. I don't have a D2 to experiment with, but as a group we really should work this out and make a sticky.

 

i try and ask and answer questions on the forum. so that other people can see the responses. that is the point of a forum. to have a questions answered by an individual or group that is documented for future reference. Not so you can hold private calls can be had and then follow ups sometimes posted or not.

as for the OP. as mike said if you have the battery connected you should be able to reach thru that 1/4" window gap with a pole to hit the central unlock button. or if it were me bust out one of the back windows and climb thru. you can replace the glass from your insurance company or just call one of the parts guys and pick one up. i wouldnt mess around trying to rewire the fuse box. as for the busted lock mechanism sounds like you will be replacing that as well so the other option is to just drill the door lock mech out, since its going to have to be replaced to make sure this doesnt happen again

 

Thanks That's what I may have to do as for lr2001silver, he was just trying to help whatever worked to take care of this I would and will post whatever ends up working. I really appreciate you guys even though I owned a LR for eight years I keep finding out new things..

a novice mechanically

 

Make sure to keep us up to date. One last question do you have two key fobs or just one?

 

i only have one key fob. this is sooooo frustrating!!!