Hello everyone! I’m going through hell with these knock sensors. I have two codes p0332 and p0705. Now the p0332 reads as: Knock/Combustion Vibration sensor 2 Circuit Low Bank 2

i have replaced both sensors with OeM, cleaned the area of the sensor, checked the wiring to see if any cracks or disconnects (clear) and still this code will not leave. It’s to the point that I’m so frustrated and don’t know what else to do. Would any of you know of how to solve this so my car can pass emissions?

second code is the xyz switch which I have ordered so I don’t think those two codes are related.

 

knock sensor should not cause emissions not to pass, but some states doe have weird rules. That code means you have cut or short in the wire. Have you check wire resistance from ECU to sensor plug?

 

yea I have tracked it as much as I possibly could in the knock sensors area on both sides. In the drivers side it’s hard to track it all the way because it gets buried behind the belts and in the passenger side I have gotten as far up to when it merges with the other wires. Looks good but now maybe I should really track it all the way to the ECU.

I have another code for the xyz switch and you mentioning emissions not failing because of the knock sensors maybe I should focus attention on that?

 

They XYZ code is sometimes related to low battery conditions, have you had any battery issues? As far as the wiring, a lot of times the wire gets pinched during engine service work but that is usually on the left/bank 1 not bank 2. Bank two has more trouble due to exhaust manifold burning but it coudl be in the harness due to previous service work.

 

The harness? Hmmm I’m going to double check that. So the code says bank 2 so just to confirm: the driver side knock sensor. It’s hard to follow that wire because it gets buried the belt. Now thinking, when you say harness… where would I find it? I can’t even see where the wire gets bundled with other wires.

thank you btw. Learning a lot with you

 

I just had to repair my knock sensor wire. It was brittle and cracking and the shielding was visibly broken in a few places. The damaged parts of the wire down lower, where the wire was hiding behind the pulleys. I already had the pulleys off, which is the only reason i saw the damage. I cut out the bad section and spliced in a RG174 coax wire all the way from the plug up to the fuel injector harness.
If anyone knows what the resistance of the sensor should be, that would help to check if the sensor is bad.

 

I think you found my problem. It has to be somewhere behind the pulleys. There’s no cracking or issues with the wiring but that’s the only place I can’t look unless I get in there which really sucks. Now you said RG174 coax wire worked for you? I’m gonna make this a weekend project and remove the belt to really get in there

 

Pass side runs up the harness along the heater pipe next to the alt bracket and down the intake manifold fi harness. Easy check with DVM between ECU and sensor for open or short before digging in to harness.

 

Yep.. RG174. It was $9.00 USD for 30ft on Amazon . It's thinner and more malleable than typical coax, closely resembling the original wire.
The sensor has 2 wires - Ground and Signal.. The ground is carried by the shielding , and the signal is the center conductor wire. I soldered the new wire in. The original wire used crimps. I haven't got the engine back together yet to Validate, but i'm certain the new wire will fix it. Afterwards I ohm'd out the wire and checked there were no shorts.

 

Original

Original

New