Clint's Garage: How to rewire your knock sensor

so i found that, i'm at work but from scanning through the first bit it may be a start to repairing the coax style lead. i dont care if i have to go over the top and bypass harness and wire direct from the ecm. i just dont know what my options are. i'd rather not have to get a whole harness and i can't imagine that would be the only solution.

 

Clint's Garage: How to rewire your knock sensor

i found that, maybe a thought to wire direct from the ecm to the knock sensor posts.

thoughts?

 

Talked to Atlantic british, they don't have the harness or a splice, however guy agreed to direct wire back to the ecm via a coax, now to figure out what wire to use.

 

Shield to ground center to second lead

 

Ok so check it out I fixed it. There were two 22ga leads right at the connector, used two 7/64 female audio disconnects for the sensor post side, made a pig tail, then crimped that guy with butt connectors to the leads that we're left that I cut and stripped back about half an inch max, and then taped that back to the harness to keep it from hanging all over my starter.

Threw in seafoam and this weekend it'll get new plugs in case the imbalance fouled them. But she's running better already and the engine light went off.

 

Actually that knock sensor cable is shielded coax and a simple butt splice will usually not maintain the shield.

The signal level is low so a proper shield is necessary in that high electrical noise environment.

Splicing coax does not maintain a proper shield. Period.

You really need to replace the whole cable by getting one out of another harness and putting it back into yours.

Otherwise electrical signals inside the engine compartment will be induced into the system that controls your engine timing. Not a good thing. Splicing does not maintain the shield in coaxial cable.

 

I dunno, maybe it's shielded further up the harness, I was literally working with the last inch or so. The leads were definitely just stranded 22ga at the very end.

 

That's what the wiring diagram shows and typical of many shielded circuits.
......

 

Yea that's what I figured, if it fails in the future at least it's bank two and can go thru the firewall to the ecu, but for now there it is without issue and it's running better today since I'm sure the ecu has figured out it doesn't need to retard the timing