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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:26 PM
  #21  
The_OGCJR's Avatar
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Dumb question, how do I grease the centering ball? Are we talking about the ball joining the double joint on the transfer case end of the shaft? I can't see where I can fill anything up aside from filling the joint at the zerk fittings.
 
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Old Apr 1, 2016 | 10:30 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by COSitsWORTHit
Dumb question, how do I grease the centering ball? Are we talking about the ball joining the double joint on the transfer case end of the shaft? I can't see where I can fill anything up aside from filling the joint at the zerk fittings.
You are in the right spot. You have to turn the ball entirely one direction and a small opening through which you can use a needle fitting appears. That's why it has to be off.

Unless your is different...
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 05:13 PM
  #23  
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Ok. So the drive shaft is out and the truck drives WAY smoother than before. So Tom Woods said ship to them, and they will rebuild for 200 or I could buy a new one from lucky 8 for the same cost. BUT my Tom shaft is a double unit and therefore supposedly a better design than the 200 lucky 8 shaft.

Decisions, decisions
 
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Old Apr 2, 2016 | 06:23 PM
  #24  
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What do you mean double unit,? Front driveshafts have a single
U-joint if front & double U-joints with centering ball in rear where it meets transfer case,,
All are same way unless the one you have right now is diff,
By the way lucky8 $200 driveshaft doesn't have a grease zerk for centering ball either (has total of 4 grease zerk) just like you say your tom woods doesn't have one,,
But I know there are some driveshafts that also have a grease zerk for centering ball (5 grease zerk for front driveshaft),,
You should be able to rebuild tom woods shaft yourself for less (just mark the slip shaft so you put it back in same lineup, so balance is not lost),
Or a driveline shop will rebuild it for you (again I think for less),, ask around,, even if you use USA made "precision"or "hardy spicer" parts,,,
Specially with shipping cost,,,
 

Last edited by Bom2oo2; Apr 2, 2016 at 06:26 PM.
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Old Apr 3, 2016 | 10:03 AM
  #25  
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Second that. If you search for "driveshaft" in local listings they will be much cheaper since it is already off your truck.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 10:09 PM
  #26  
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Thanks guys. I'm going to start searching tomorrow.
 
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 10:36 AM
  #27  
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Dropped off the shaft to Scottys driveshaft shop here in Austin. Rebuild quote is 200. Also, they are going to install parts that put the zerks in the elbow of joint not on the caps like it is currently. He showed me how the shaft is bad the joints had lots of play at the transfer case side
 
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 12:30 PM
  #28  
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Ask Scotty if he can instal a centering ball with flush grease fitting on t for you, & make sure he uses USA made parts, (if he is using u-joints with zerk in cross section , it should be precision MOOG made in Chicago IL,) ,
After rebuild you should grease more often than 15k miles, with every oil change at least , & it should last for very long time,
 
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Old Apr 12, 2016 | 09:47 PM
  #29  
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Just picked up the driveshaft. Zerks in the cross section, the ball greasing location is on the joint. Everything looks good on it. Going to install it tomorrow night if it stops raining.
 
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Old Apr 16, 2016 | 08:56 PM
  #30  
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Got the drive shaft in and for good measure, I changed the transfer case oil...only like a quart came out and it was super thin. Reinstalling the fill plug was a complete pain, but now that's done. Also changed rear diff. Back to 4 wheeling!
 
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