re; You know your staff and I am glad you'r here

my staff is just the "parts vultures" that land on the highest branch of the shade tree. As far as knowing my stuff I am a mushroom in a redwood forest, not tall enough to even carry Mike's 8mm socket or Spike's spare city light bulb.

And we are glad you are here.

As far as the oil test, the sensor that is screwed into the block is a switch, so it only has off/on positions. You have to unplug the single wire, unscrew the switch (has an O-ring on the back), and screw in a manual pressure test guage into the threaded hole, with is 1/4 inch straight (not tapered) . This is in an area where space is tight.

By confirming OK oil PSI worn lower bearings may be moved down the list and lifters moved up. But some lifter problems are sludge from infrequent oil changes, and engine flush and Rotella may help clear that up without having to open up the valley pan.

 

A redwoood tree can call her self what evere it wants, but it will still be a tall tree. Mike and spike helped me alot here, they are right up there with you. And I appreciate the help that I am getting from all of you. It makes me more comfortable with my growling teritorial animal.

 

Do I need to change the O-ring, Rave says discard the O-ring. I did order 2 oil cooler line o-rings, I don't know if this might be the same size.

 

Should change o ring, it may tear when removed. Not sure if same size will work from cooler lines, it would fit snug around a 1/4 inch pipe. There is a bowl shaped depression in the block that holds and compresses the O ring for the oil PSI switch.

You mis-understood. I only stand in the shadows of Mike,Spike, and others. This forum excels by the strength of all members, a collective of experiences focused on the Rover experience. While I may be excited by a new oil filter or different fan clutch, others modify suspension, tune exhaust systems, fabricate bumpers to fend off rhinos (or Land Cruisers), or install the latest navigation system to find out where they are not, and the 4,000 watt sound system to make sure everyone hears them coming down the trail. Somewhere, somehow, somebody has fixed a Rover or improved on a Rover. It is easier when you start at the top of the pile.

 

Who's oil filter are you using, if a Fram, get rid of it cause they can cause dry starts/noise.
Are you planning on rebuilding your drive shaft?

 

I have one of the big purolators waiting for me at advance auto and currently have the WIX filter in there.

 

You have 2 ways to check for a exhaust leak at the manifold, 1-open the hood, have your wife start the engine and look for the white smoke that comes out of the tailpipe to come from the manifold.
2-take a can of Seafoam and with the engine cold stick the PCV vacuum line into the can, have your wife start the engine and once again look for smoke.
It is very common for the exhaust manifolds to crack and leak when cold, once they warm up they expand and the crack is "plugged", my truck has done this since the day I bought it, I was going to get the crack welded shut but who cares until it gets worse?
I'm not saying that is your problem, just something to check.

 

Thank you every body for the advise and help. I used SeaFoam and found the exhaust leak. It is leaking from the manifold to exhaust pipe gasket, especially on the left. Some liquid was even driping there and I think that might have been all the SeaFoam

Unfortunately, wife was not in good mood and even if she was she wouldn't cooperate in garage after 10:30pm, so I had to do it by myself and the engine engulfed the whole SeaFoam bottle in no time. If I remember correctly it was suppose to be timed for one minute but it went very quickly and the engine was smoking for quite some time, I hope this will not hurt the engine. I did contaminate the whole neighnorhood at 01:00am with smoke.

On my 96 D1 I broke 4 manifold studs, 2 on each side, after I drained the transmission oil and opened the pan to change the filter, only to realize that the exhaust and cross membrane needed to come off. I Could not put the pan back, since i also broke one of the pan screws. It was a very rusted D1 and me and my brother spent one whole week under that car. with multiple daily trips to hardware store. So I do not want to brake any more studs, I will give the muffler shop a visit tomorrow.

 

You are a wise man to take to muffler shop. But next time read the instructions on the SeaFoam container, it only calls for 5 ounces or so of material, you don't need the whole bottle. Does not hurt the engine.

 

I must admit that I did not read the instruction on the bottle, but the way it happened was that I cranked the engine and left the tube inside the bottle when I got out of the car to slow done the process everything was gone.