Leak around rear wheel.
The following users liked this post:
Daytoman (03-12-2019)
#22
1A Auto is happy to help...but they need that order #. So if I replace the hub, I’m gonna have to buy one at this point. It does look like the bearing seal failed...but again, I got no past experience with it.
#23
Daytoman, I think it's a bad bearing seal. Kinda hard to tell but this looks like bearing grease that has leaked out. These areas should be clean on a new hub.
#24
Sorry for the late reply. Mine was AllMakes. The vendor made things right quickly though, and the replacement has been working fine.
Daytoman, I think it's a bad bearing seal. Kinda hard to tell but this looks like bearing grease that has leaked out. These areas should be clean on a new hub.
Daytoman, I think it's a bad bearing seal. Kinda hard to tell but this looks like bearing grease that has leaked out. These areas should be clean on a new hub.
Im not able to replace under warranty because PO can’t find his order number. Oh well it wasn’t expensive.
Thanks for the help everyone. Experience gained and I leveled up a little!
Last edited by Daytoman; 03-12-2019 at 08:33 PM.
#25
Knowing this leak was a bad hub/bearing seal it's important to determine what could be a contributing factor.
The 2 that come to mind are the diff fluid was over filled, or the axle breather vent tube is blocked.
If the pressure in the axle/diff housing increased it found the weakest point (the bad seal) to vent.
I would inspect the breather tube and the fitting on the axle really well. I've seen the tube be free but the fitting have the blockage.
To be safe also inspect the other hub. If one failed from a possible over pressure then the other side could be suspect.
Good Luck!
Red5, no worries.
It's so hard to know what brand AllMakes is going to send half the time.
Whatever they can source cheap goes in the box, and that " PR2 Premium Range " is such B$!
That's why I avoid them as much as possible (which is about 99%). Mini rant... over.
The 2 that come to mind are the diff fluid was over filled, or the axle breather vent tube is blocked.
If the pressure in the axle/diff housing increased it found the weakest point (the bad seal) to vent.
I would inspect the breather tube and the fitting on the axle really well. I've seen the tube be free but the fitting have the blockage.
To be safe also inspect the other hub. If one failed from a possible over pressure then the other side could be suspect.
Good Luck!
Sorry for the late reply. Mine was AllMakes
It's so hard to know what brand AllMakes is going to send half the time.
Whatever they can source cheap goes in the box, and that " PR2 Premium Range " is such B$!
That's why I avoid them as much as possible (which is about 99%). Mini rant... over.
#26
Knowing this leak was a bad hub/bearing seal it's important to determine what could be a contributing factor.
The 2 that come to mind are the diff fluid was over filled, or the axle breather vent tube is blocked.
If the pressure in the axle/diff housing increased it found the weakest point (the bad seal) to vent.
I would inspect the breather tube and the fitting on the axle really well. I've seen the tube be free but the fitting have the blockage.
To be safe also inspect the other hub. If one failed from a possible over pressure then the other side could be suspect.
Good Luck!
The 2 that come to mind are the diff fluid was over filled, or the axle breather vent tube is blocked.
If the pressure in the axle/diff housing increased it found the weakest point (the bad seal) to vent.
I would inspect the breather tube and the fitting on the axle really well. I've seen the tube be free but the fitting have the blockage.
To be safe also inspect the other hub. If one failed from a possible over pressure then the other side could be suspect.
Good Luck!
How do I gauge the proper level for the gear oil? I assumed it would take a little less than 2qrts and you fill on a level surface until it runs out of the fill hole?
I believe you get the breather tube out by depressing that red ring in the fitting? Is that correct? So beyond that how do I clean out the fitting itself? Is it removable?
Last edited by Daytoman; 03-13-2019 at 09:23 AM.
#27
Thank you. Overfilled? How does that happen? Filling on an unlevel surface?
How do I gauge the proper level for the gear oil? I assumed it would take a little less than 2qrts and you fill on a level surface until it runs out of the fill hole?
I believe you get the breather tube out by depressing that red ring in the fitting? Is that correct? So beyond that how do I clean out the fitting itself? Is it removable?
The following users liked this post:
Daytoman (03-13-2019)
#28
Your bearing failed due to internal (manufacturing) issues, remember all the metal filings? The filings took out the seal and etc and created the mess. Yes, you fill your gear oil until it comes out the fill hole. You should be able to blow some air through the vent line, but I doubt that has anything to do with the bearing failure. Just a bad part.
85/140 weight gear oil should be good correct?
Also, just because I’m trying to get as much knowledge as I can on these things, I’m going to go ahead and pull out that vent tube and check it to make sure it’s clear. Might as well since I’m underneath there anyway.
Hubs showed up today. I’ll replace it and now I’ll have an extra on hand.
Just curious has anybody had any issues with the sensors that come with these hubs? Should I reuse the current sensor?
Last edited by Daytoman; 03-13-2019 at 01:22 PM.
#30
I use 85/140 in both F & R ends and the transfer case. If you live where its - degrees in the winter often, I probably wouldn't go with the 85/140. I can feel a slight drag in my running gear the first few hundred yards in my rig when it's freezing out in the mornings.