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No worries. I did a leak test.all passenger side cylinders had good results from 5 to 8 % loss.
#3 cylinder was the main culprit. With 75% loss. Leaking heavily into intake manifold. 5 and 7 around 35% loss.

 

that is actually good news because it means the problem is on the number three cylinder head, could be a broken valve spring although I've never seen that or maybe or maybe a bent valve or something else but regardless once you take the head off you'll see what the problem is.

 

Progress and good news
#3 had a blown gasket leaking towards the intake manifold. #5 was going bad too. Bores in great shape. Liners good with zero scoring. I'm going to have the heads hot tanked and I'll check valves seats. Thanks for all the tips. Coolant in bore is just residual from head removal.
Cheers John

 

Also if anyone has some thoughts on while I'm in there jobs.I was thinking of upgrading to the ARP studs instead of the head bolts. Also I'm replacing coil packs and wires because those are a pain. Finally replacing water pump as it has slight play.
Cheers John

 

Make sure the heads are checked for flatness, the center blow are more related to warpage. You might want to read this: https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...92/#post786998

PS pump leaking? Idler bearings? Exhaust gasket?

 

I would be suspicious of previous engine work that did not plane the heads. Head gasket might not be original. Bank 2 head looks cleaner than the valley, so maybe was worked on prior. I would pull the other head and check flatness as well, while in there, if you have time now and budget. If one head gets planed, the other should as well, to keep geometry and compression ratios equal. Probably will need to install shims under rocker supports if you do plane the heads.

 

I did remove the other head and it looks much better. I am having them cleaned and surfaces decked. That link was interesting. Looked very similar to my blow out. I will check the cats and injectors too. Possibly just replace those. When I owned this vehicle I did have the HG changed around 15 years ago. Until now it drove fine. Not sure weather they had the surfaces decked.
Idler pulley will also be changed out and of course all gaskets and o rings. Would you guys recommend the ARP stud conversion?
Thanks again for your help. Much appreciated.
Cheers John.

 

There are people who argue for Stretch Bolts and others argue for ARP’s. Personally, at least partly because it’s controversial, I would use new stretch bolts. They are a tenth the price.

 

Heads back. They were slightly out. Low in the center. Took 0.005 to clean up. Cleaning and surfacing. $230. I thought that was very reasonable.
Cheers John

 

I would suggest getting the OEM fuel injectors cleaned and tested. I bought new ones, non oem and a few did not work at all, so I have mixed bag.

Also mineral sprits does a fantastic job cleaning cylinders.