just a tip, pull head bolts from the outside to the inside and install the new head bolts from the inside out.

carnage from pulling the headbols from the front of the motor to the back.

 

Find a parking lot and get to it.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/76579732@N07/

http://jeffreyfall.com/landrover

 

I have to say that I too was paranoid to do a head gasket job for the first time, but its actually pretty straight forward.

I had a local mechanic help me on the first one I did and he shared a few techniques.

1) He was completely neurotic about cleaning every bolt and adjacent hole with brake parts cleaner, then blowing it out with an air hose.

2) He used Valvoline "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" molly fortified grease for the head bolts.

3) He added a super thin layer of "hylomar" gasket maker at the water passages on the block to heads and heads to intake. Says he learned it from an old school machinists who does a lot of TVR race motors.

4) Use blue lock tight on every bolt that is on the inside of the motor, except head bolts. You don't want something coming loose in there.

5) "Right stuff" on the valve covers, both sides of the gasket.

But I do like JFALL's parking lot style!

 

YES, you must un-torque heads in the opposite direction that you install them.

This is were everyone goes wrongs and break sockets, and scream and yell that they cant get the rear head bolts out, Because they should be the first to come out. otherwise you have all the pressure of the first 6 bolts, now on the two that are left.

also a 5/8 6 point shallow impact socket is what is really need to break the bolts free, off shore shining chrome sockets will just break.

 

Looks like me and your mechanic friend have similar complexes!

1) He was completely neurotic about cleaning every bolt and adjacent hole with brake parts cleaner, then blowing it out with an air hose.

2) He used Valvoline "Ford-Lincoln-Mercury" molly fortified grease for the head bolts. I used ARP Ultra Lube under the Stud washers/nuts. NOT ON THE Block THREADS.

3) He added a super thin layer of "hylomar" gasket maker at the water passages on the block to heads and heads to intake. Says he learned it from an old school machinists who does a lot of TVR race motors.

4) Use blue lock tight on every bolt that is on the inside of the motor, except head bolts. You don't want something coming loose in there.

5) "Right stuff" on the valve covers, both sides of the gasket.


These were my best friend.

1/2" Drive 5/8" wobble (Impact Drive if you can find them, if not the standards strength are sufficient)

 

This only works if you don't have to plan for snow and windchill factors. Anybody see the Roadkill episode with the El Camino parking lot engine swap? Anyway. I love to work on cars outside, but I can only do that about two-thirds of the year. By the way, saw those project photos a long time ago, and I remember being pretty impressed with it/the pictures.

 

You might want to consider Rovers North to. I've dealt extensively with both competitor companies (Rovers North & Atlantic British) and my experience is that RN is more flexible and has done alot more to help me out compared to AB. Usually if you speak to Zack (ZGPhoto) he will hook you up with a good price not listed in their catalogs. I contacted him today to see if he might bw able to get us a bigger discount on the parts we will need for this job so ill keep you posted.