2001 D2 with 123k.......ticking noise from the right side valve cover. I used a stethoscope to locate the noise and it is under Right Side valve cover. I put the scope everywhere I could reach and it is loudest on the valve cover. Truck starts and runs great BUT starts "Ticking" when it get warmer. I hate to think a slipping liner...BUT !!! I have no other problems ie. coolant loss/overheating/ just the damn ticking . IDEAS???

 

Are you sure it is not a lifter?
If it is a slipped liner dont worry about it, it will run that way forever.
Same thing with the lifter, leave it alone.
This is all assuming your oil PSI is fine and you are using the correct motor oil.

 

the liner noise tends to be much louder from underneath the car then on top. Sounds like you have some valve train related noise.

 

oil pressure appears to be OK Using Rotella 15w40 Also put the Puralator(sp) 40316 filter. Larger volume filter 6 3/4 inch length. I have some Mann W950-7 filters also but haven't used them yet. They have a 2.5 bar release pressure rating. I hear these give you much better oil pressure. Love the truck BUT hate the noise.......not as quiet as the MBenz C280 sport I drive also.

 

Liners don't slip on DIIs, they are held in place.... Their blocks crack behind the liners. If your block did cracked, the engine would overheat rapidly, which I'm assuming it does not. As to the cause of the tick, Lifter maybe, valve maybe, Liner definitively not.

 

you probablly have have a valve trian noise right now, but not for long if you run the -7 filter.
if your going to run that Mann filter you should be running -4 which is .7 bar, the -7 is 2.5 which is 3 time higher than what LR specs.
You can run to much oil preasure which washes out the bearings, that is the difference beteween high preasure and high volume. high volume is good high preasure is not.
You should return the -7 filter and replace them with the -4.
when the weather breaks up hear you should pull the valve cover and see if you can find the cause of the noise.

 

The d2 do have a lip at opposing bottom side of the block that keeps the liner from being able to drop into bottom of engine. But, there is a built in gap between the liners and the top of the block that allows for expansion of the liner, when the liners come loose it is able to tick up and down in this expansion gap but, it can never drop on down into the bottom of the engine. This is why the d2s tick and the d1s thump with a loose liner, theirs can drop down into the bottom of engine.

 

Flea, how do you know your oil pressure is OK, if you haven't tested it, you don't know anything yet.
How often do you change your oil, when was the last time you flushed out your engine?
I would suggest you go flush the engine, do a 4 point oil pressure test and read a sticky I have posted in the D2 section of the LRO which talks directly about valve train noises.

 

re: if your going to run that Mann filter you should be running -4 which is .7 bar, the -7 is 2.5 which is 3 time higher than what LR specs.
You can run to much oil preasure which washes out the bearings, that is the difference beteween high preasure and high volume. high volume is good high preasure is not.

IMHO, the bypass valve in the oil filter does not determine the PSI in the system at instant cold start, or at warmed up. When at cold start, the pressure drop across the filter exceeds the 35 PSI or soo, cold oil does not like to go thru filter media, so filter valve opens, and oil flows around the filter and on thru the engine at the max PSI that the oil pump can provide. On my poor old D1 that's about 45 PSI, with the Mann -4 / Purpulator filter. At the same temp, it makes this PSI at 1000 rpm (cold idle) or revved up to 2500. The filter is not in the circuit. As I watched mine warm up, the idle PSI dropped, and finally bottomed out at about 22-24 PSI. When brought to 2500, 42 PSI. For a D1, that's within spec.

I agree that the -7 filter would be a better match, because it will keep the filter in bypass mode until pressure drop across filter is more like 10 PSI or less, so the oil is actually warmer and flowing better when the filter decides to step back into the loop and start filtering. The Mann filter is high volume and has a low pressure drop across it, which makes for slightly higher oil pressure (based on what pump can provide). The additional volume capacity is a good thing. If you have a D1, you have an oil cooler. If you have a D2, some have oil cooler, later ones don't. Extra oil is a good thing, that semi that passed you on the freeway probably has a 40 quart oil system.

Those of us with old Chevy trucks with oil gauges see this every morning, higher PSI, dropping back as warmed up.

Now the bypass valve in the front cover - that is a whole different story.

 

Maybe time for lifters/cam/ and other parts?? I know for sure it isn't the flex plate that area is as quiet as a titmouse....Valve cover right side(pass side) has all the noise. To bad it's such a PITA to remove these.. Not like the old chevy V8's where you could remove the cover put the oil clip on the rocker arm and start it up and adjust the valves. Now to replace a gasket you have to tear the top end apart. Guess thats the JOY of having a Rover ~~