I've made a list over the past months of observations, concerns, issues, questions, etc. which I haven't had any luck resolving/answering as of yet. Any comments, ideas, solutions would be most appreciated!

Item numbers relate to another complete list. Please use for reference when commenting.

2. Transmission fluid flush: type of fluid for replacement?

3. What grease-able parts (such as new front drive shaft) are there that need to be greased at each oil change?

11. Jack – in the cavity where the jack is stored under the hood there is only the jack – it appears there is significant space – what else should be in there? Also I’m uncertain how to use the jack or if mine even works – I can’t get it to do anything – I do hear fluid inside.

13. Exterior seal not effective in places – when going through pressure car wash notice water and suds on passenger’s side rear seat near back of door and a strip approx. 8 inches wide across entire back cargo area carpet closest to door wet, more wet closer to left (opening) side

14. Heavy Clunk – observed only after front drive shaft replaced (Tom Wood’s, old one was in very bad shape). Occurs nearly every time you sharply tap the accelerator pedal after coasting for a short time – is easily heard and felt.

15. Steering:

a. Groaning/moan vibration in steering wheel felt and heard only when turning wheel right at a rapid pace, only when moving VERY slowing (i.e. reversing to park), and only when turning a significant amount (felt when turning through roughly half the full rotation of wheel, not near end). Already tried Lucas additive.

b. Shaking while decelerating at times wheel will shake right and left with up to an inch of movement (usually much less) when decelerating (braking only, never when coasting), especially from 100 km/hr. to 60 km/hr. on a highway exit ramp – noted especially around 70-80 km/hr.

c. Pulls strongly to right when breaking

d. Steering VERY sloppy noticed when cornering but can also feel like you a starting to slide on ice when on a bare road in the summer. Steering issue - maybe also alignment?

e. ?Steering bar/shaft? (don’t know proper term/name) observable when hood is open has a lot of play – related?

f. Steering wheel tilt – when wheels are centered such that the vehicle precedes straight forward the steering wheel is tilted significantly.

16. Wiper response delay and height/position on stop – when first turning on wipers it can take several minutes for them to actually start moving (you can sometimes get them to come on right away by turning the control **** slightly beyond the proper position) – you can hear a tick sound every time the wipers go – this can also be heard when they are first switched on but are not actually moving. Also, occasionally when going they will not return completely to the at rest/off position (horizontal) – you have to turn them on and off or pull to activate the spray to make them behave normally.

17. Rear cargo door – closes very hard – seems like a stopper padding or something must be missing.

18. Undercoating – useful? I know the body is mostly aluminum which cannot rust…? Where? Price?

19. Driver’s foot air – should there be air coming out at the driver’s feet when the air system is set on foot – lots can be felt at the passenger’s feet.

20. “Air” sound from front – often when running an air leak type sound can be heard from the front when in the driver’s seat with the windows up and the air system off. The sound lessens and may disappear when the gas pedal is depressed – lessening more with more acceleration.

21. Inlet Air Control Actuator Motor(s) (ATC ECU) sounds – inlet air control working properly? Occurs on change of speed, when stopping/starting – disconnected? Is hearing them normal?

22. Driver’s chair tilt back non-functional – tilting of the entire driver’s chair (not the back of the chair but the entire unit – separate control) backwards (towards reclining position) doesn’t work anymore – chair will tilt forward as before.

23. Air Conditioning non-functional – any idea what is wrong, what I will need to replace – previous owner stated the system needed to be simply recharged as it simply stopped working July 2009 (last summer) – I want to confirm this before I spend any money on it as it is non-essential.

24. Cruise Control non-functional – light comes on when Master switch depressed, steering wheel controls seem flimsy – especially when compared to steering wheel radio controls) – I want to confirm what needs to be done to fix this before I spend any money on it as it is non-essential.

26. Ideas for rust on cargo door handle (up in), cargo door hinges, cargo door slider and arm assembly.

27. In late February when driving in a very, very heavy snow/slush storm with the roads covered in deep heavy wet snow approximately 20 minutes into a 30 minute drive the Transmission Heat Red light came on for approximately two minutes and then went off after slightly easier driving and never came back on.

28. Diagnostic Trouble Code 21 and 22 – 21: Sunlight Sensor Left Output, 22: Sunlight Sensor Right Output (Open Or Short Circuit, No solar heating correction) – found by mechanic in January 2010. Issue? Purpose?

 

I am not into a lot of typing so, if you want answers to all of this, send me your number and I'll call you.

 

do the 60k service in the how to section. get an alignment and see if they say anything about your steering damper. check the seals sounds like you are missing some around windows and doors. and thn come back to us. your list will be half of what it is now.

 

X2 take care of that 60K service and listen to Mike, he is here to help. Have you downloaded the RAVE CD yet?

2 & 27 At your mileage, a machine flush will be too hard on your trans, just drain and replace the fluid and change the filter (Autzone has a kit that includes the filter and gasket's for $14.99). Just use a brand of fluid you trust. Old fluid/clogged filter could have contributed to the trans warning light coming on while you were driving in the snow?

15. Some of those 'steering' symptoms can be attributed to your brakes. Check your pads and rotors out or get them checked out ASAP, probably time to have them replaced.

15a. I had that too, Indie Rover tech couldn't figure it out, I have drained the PS fluid and replaced with Royal Purple PS fluid and have not felt the vibration/moan since. I used a turkey baster style syringe thing and some tubing and sucked all of the old fluid (and dirt) I could out of the reservoir, then dumped the RP in, seems to me to have worked.

18. I would recommend staying away from DIY undercoating. Unless you prep like a champion, you will just be creating a place for moisture to get trapped and increase your likelyhood of rust. If you are worried about protecting your undercarriage, use POR 15 or something similar and just get the whole underside sprayed.

20. Does the "Air" sound you are hearing sound like a shop-vac? If so that is your Secondary Air Injection (SAI). It's an emissions thing.

 

Thanks Everyone for reading and for the suggestions!

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re: Disco Mike's response


Mike - I've PM'd you my number, thank you for your assistance!

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*** - not yet done or question about this step/item

60K or more service: please note I bought the truck with over 150,000 miles (240,000 kilometers) on it already

1 Oil filter, K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301 - - - I've had the oil, lube, and filter done twice since purchasing
1 Factory air filter - - - replaced air filter at last service
6 Qts. of engine oil - - - I've had the oil, lube, and filter done twice since purchasing
***2 feet of 3/16th vacuum tube - - - ?
***2 feet of 5/16th vacuum tube - - - ?
***12 Qts. of ATF - - - what is ATF?
***7 Qts. of 80/90W synthetic gear oil, 85W/140 for HD use - - - ?
***3 Pints of synthetic DOT 4 Brake fluid - - - ?
2 Qts of synthetic Power steering fluid - - - have had the power steering fluid changed, also have siphoned reservoir and filled with Lucas
2 Gallons of OAT, orange coolant, also called DexCool - - - mine had green in it - was highly recommended not to change type in case of head gasket wear/disolution, have kept topped up
1 Bottle of Lucas Power Steering additive - - - done
***1 Bottle of Lucas Transmission additive - - - I'm having the transmission drained and a new filter and gasket placed on - should this be added with the replacement transmission fluid?
***1 Can of Spray Carb. Spray - - - ?
***1 Can Of Brake cleaner - - - ?
***8 Spark Plugs, I use Bosch Platinum Plus 4's - - - I'm not having any issues with this I don't think...? do I need to replace?
***1 Set of Magnacor 8mm plug wires - - - ? (I know the previous owner had some wiring re-done...?)
1 Serpentine belt - - - condition checked - looks good
***2 Bottles of SeaFoam gas additive - - - ?
***1 T/Stat - - - ?
***1 bottle of WaterWetter or Purple Ice - - - ?
Hoses and belts, as necessary - - - replaced top rad. hose with new style

***Bleed the brakes - - - previous owner had "major" break job done - necessary?
Flush and change the power steering fluid adding one bottle of additive - - - done
Service the tranny adding one bottle of additive - - - see above
Change the coolant and t/stat - - - see above
***Do an engine flush before changing the oil - - - engine flush?
***Do an induction cleaning - - - ?
***Clean the throttle body - - - ? (Have just replaced the throttle body heater, was damaged and leaking)
***Add fuel additive to full gas tank - - - ?
***Change both of the diffs fluid - - - diff. fluids changed (they were foamy and low) when I replaced the front drive shaft - need to confirm with mechanic
***Change the t/case oil - - - transfer case oil changed (they were foamy and low) when I replaced the front drive shaft - need to confirm with mechanic
Replace the plugs and wires - - - see above
Replace the air filter - - - done
***Lube all the drive shaft grease fitting including the 2 slip shafts - - - will get done at next service - what exactly needs to be lubed so I can ask them to?
Do full inspection of brakes, hoses, bushings etc.

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re: hilltoppsx response

60k service - see above

Should I get an alignment?

I've been told my steering issue is most probably due to a sloppy/loose steering box...same thing as steering damper? Anyone know of a cheap source for a replacement?

I've checked the seals - they look fine and complete - also appear in good condition, very flexible and still "puffy" (i.e. not flat and cracked) - not sure why the water comes in (only during pressure car wash so not a huge deal I guess...)

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re: yloDiscoII response

60k service - see above

2 & 27. I will just have them drain and replace and replace my filter and gasket

15. The previous owner had a "major" break job done - I'm thinking it's my steering box being sloppy cause I think the breaks are okay

15a. Would the Royal Purple PS fluid be any different from the Lucas? I've done that exact procedure but using the Lucas fluid - no effect

18. Okay - what is POR15? Is that something a shop would be able to do? Also would the application of this itself remove all loose rust off the bottom and then protect the good metal? I looked undernearth today and some parts seem quite rusty on the surface

20. I have had a new revelation in terms of the "air" sound - it sounded like a high pressure, very small air leak - now I'm quite certain its actually electric/electronic - I think, though I will have to observe further, that the "air" sound only occurs when the sound system is on. I have confirmed it definately changes tone and volume as the gears shift...ideas?

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NEW ITEM:

29. Heat – the truck produces very little internal heat. I was given a procedure to follow to get rid of any air on the heater core:

i. from a cold start with rad overflow cap off and correct level of antifreeze,
ii. turn key put the air to 28 on both sides and fan on high,
iii. start engine and rev at about 2000 rpms for roughly 2-3 mins or till it is at normal operating level,
iv. now replace cap and road test

Mechanics have carried out this procedure 2 or 3 times for me, I have just carried it out myself without any increase in heat. I have been told Discos are typically very hot – mine blows out air roughly outdoor temperature or slightly warmer – like a cool breeze in the summer – also I have noticed that if you rev. the engine higher (say 3000 rpm) for a couple minutes the heat will increase – though still only luke warm. Ideas?

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Comment:

I have replaced the rear driver's side door lock actuator with a used one, now both the driver's door lock actuator and that of the front passenger's door have done as well - I have used ones to have installed - anything I can do to stop this trend for the rear passenger's door and the rear cargo door?

 

UPDATES:

16. I'm told both the delay and the height is probably a relay doing bad and that that relay simply needs to be replaced.

19. I checked in detail tonight - there is just as much air at the driver's feet as the passengers - I think I was mislead by the fact the blower motor is at the passenger's feet and it sounds like there is more air...oops.


Thanks!

 

Notes from informative conversation with Disco Mike:

-Conduct 60 services items not yet completed (see above post)
-Conduct induction cleaning, removed Carbon from inside engine - call Mike for walkthrough to conduct
-Check all spark plugs for wear (grey ring on ceramic), replace if worn/grey
-Check all plug wires for wear, replace if grey
-Before next two oil changes purchase Gunk engine flush product (product name?), add 10 minutes before oil change, let truck idle
-(NEW ITEM: 31.) Quickly change green coolant to orange dexcool - have t/stat replaced at this time (~$18 part + complicated labour - 1 hr.) - change will not compromise head gasket, etc., however, leaving the green would be bad
-Purchase my own oil filters (K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301) and provide for oil/filter service rather than mechanic's filters

2. Drain and refill (fluid type for refill - Avalain? high mileage ATF) (fill through pan front plug (~ 4 qt.), start truck, shift, park, leave running, fill through pan front plug (~1 - 1.5 qt.)), change filter and gasket, shift truck through P, N, R, D, etc. several times, drain and fill again as before, this time adding Lucas during first 4 qt fill

3. Sythentic grease - fill until start to swell or even ooze grease. Front shaft - 3 u-joints and a plug for the slip shaft. Rear shaft - 1 u-joint and a plug for the slip shaft

11. Throw it out - notoriously bad jacks - buy a new 3 tonne jack locally

13. See if clunk remains after greasing front shaft, also ensure all 4 bolts on both ends are tight - call Tom Woods if it remains. Could remove the front shaft, engage the CDL and confirm it is not the rear shaft clunking

15c. Have a detailed check of all tire rod ends and linkage connections, if not one of these the pulling when breaking is probably a brake caliper which will need to be replaced before going entirely

15a. Have the wheel turned to create the sound and listen under the hood to try to precisly locate the sound's source - call Mike when located

21. Blow air into the grid vent right of the power mirror control - vent is for air temp. sensor

22. May be a bad switch - remove and clean and try again - lower seat cushion will not tilt back of horizontal or move up and down - could try swapping with passengers to test

23. Try recharge - perhaps recharge kit with sealant (~$29 kit)

24. Check all vacuum hoses leading from control box - also check vacuum hose relating to break pedal

THANKS FOR THE CALL MIKE!

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NEW ITEM:

30. I have a rattle/shaking type sound that can be felt - when on a bumpy road - sway bar bushing? sway bar link? sway bar connector? ball joint? sway bar arm? strut? shock? strut rod bushing? ???

 

2. I seem to remember there is a big bottle (3 L?) and a little bottle (500 mL?) of the Lucas for transmissions - which size am I suppose to add?

3. Regarding:
"Before next two oil changes purchase Gunk engine flush product (product name?), add 10 minutes before oil change, let truck idle"
-Where do I place this product?
-What is the actual product name?
-Where do you suggest I buy this product from?

3. K&N 3001 or Mobil 1- 301 These two recommended oil filters - would they be available at a local shop or through UAP NAPA or are they something I would have to order through AB or somewhere?

31. Radiator fluid change. Just wondering about changing the fluid from green to orange Dexcool (I'm very nervous about this!) How exactly should this be done (especially considering my vehicles high mileage)?

31. I've been told I should have my t/stat replaced when I change to Dexcool - anything else I should do at the same time?

 

i never used the gunk but i think it goes in with the new oil.

you can get the mobil 1 filter from napa or autozone of nearly any parts store.

i don't know why you are changing back to dexcool, but if you do then you need to flush the old coolant out with a garden hose. if the two coolants mix it will turn to jelly.

check all the rest of your hoses. AB sells a hose kit if you have that many miles they may be on their way out. check them for cracks or dryness. but mainly the thermostat is the main thing to change out.

 

15. We've had this issue with our work vans before, crappy pads and crappy rotors can cause that "shimmy" when you hit the brakes. There's nothing unsafe about it if you have plenty of pad and rotor life left, but it can be really annoying.

15a. I'm sure there are differences, but I can't see there being a big difference in RP synthetic and Lucas synthetic to see a change. The big thing was getting the old fluid and dirt out of your system, which you have done, therefore eliminating that as a possible cause.

18. http://www.por15.com/ --- Most folks use this on frame-off restorations to protect from rust. The guys on the Land Cruiser forum I am on swear by it. It would probably be quite the task to do a frame-off on a Disco, buy you could probably have your trouble spots sprayed frame-on to help protect against rust. You'll want to sand or scrap off (or cut out) any existing rust before applying this or any other rust preventing product.

20. I have no clue about this one. It doesn't sound like it's your SAI.