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Is a little bit rough idle normal. (No codes)

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  #11  
Old 10-19-2018, 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by mollusc
Pulling the injectors means taking off the upper intake manifold at the very least.
Was the oil baffle in the rocker cover cleaned/replaced? If you had a lot of carbon buildup that could have been a contributing factor. Simplest and most reliable option is probably to remove that piece entirely and change to the Fram PCV instead.
I have a Turner 4.6 in my 03 D2. It was a bit rough at idle. Doing the Fram PCV and fixing a few small vaccum line issue really smoothed things out.
 
  #12  
Old 10-19-2018, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sean Maginness


I have a Turner 4.6 in my 03 D2. It was a bit rough at idle. Doing the Fram PCV and fixing a few small vaccum line issue really smoothed things out.
Awesome, thanks. I just ordered a smoke tester so we will see how that goes. I will look into that Fram PCV as soon as I get some more pressing issues taken care of. Is it 100% smooth now or do you still feel little bumps here and there?
 
  #13  
Old 10-19-2018, 09:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Jason_B
Awesome, thanks. I just ordered a smoke tester so we will see how that goes. I will look into that Fram PCV as soon as I get some more pressing issues taken care of. Is it 100% smooth now or do you still feel little bumps here and there?
Its pretty smooth now. Find my self surprised at times at just how well mannered it is.

I do very infrequently get cylinder miss fire pending codes. It's not the coils as the codes occur on both sides of the coils. Thinking there is an other vacuum issue somewhere yet to find. No stumbles and no other issues.

Have you cleared the adaptive settings?
 
  #14  
Old 10-20-2018, 07:06 AM
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My low idle/stall seems to have been solved with the battery terminals cleaned, new fan belt, and air filter.

The smoke test is a good idea, and you can also rent fuel pressure testers at autozone. Both of those tests would set your mind at ease.

woth my H180 cam, and the porting work I have done the idle is now around 650-670, and really pretty smooth, but it’s not like a Honda Accord idle. There’s a bit of roughness, and I sort of chock it up to being a V8 and an older engine design.

Really wish we could get an ECM upgrade to shut down cylinders while idling like the newer engines have. Chicago traffic is nuts, and I can see lights turn 3 or 4 times.
 
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Old 10-20-2018, 07:11 AM
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Also, on your starting time, I would say mine cranks 2 or three times then starts. About a second I suppose.
 
  #16  
Old 10-22-2018, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
My low idle/stall seems to have been solved with the battery terminals cleaned, new fan belt, and air filter.

The smoke test is a good idea, and you can also rent fuel pressure testers at autozone. Both of those tests would set your mind at ease.

woth my H180 cam, and the porting work I have done the idle is now around 650-670, and really pretty smooth, but it’s not like a Honda Accord idle. There’s a bit of roughness, and I sort of chock it up to being a V8 and an older engine design.

Really wish we could get an ECM upgrade to shut down cylinders while idling like the newer engines have. Chicago traffic is nuts, and I can see lights turn 3 or 4 times.
Thanks Collie!

Yeah, I ordered the new MAF, O2 sensors, the air filter is brand new. I will clean up the terminals just since I like cleaning stuff . How does the fuel pressure tester work I wonder?

I think all in all it is pretty smooth, its def not stalling out or throwing codes, so I think if after I replace all these items I might just call it good for now. Thanks for the help.
 
  #17  
Old 10-22-2018, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by Jason_B
Thanks Collie!

Yeah, I ordered the new MAF, O2 sensors, the air filter is brand new. I will clean up the terminals just since I like cleaning stuff . How does the fuel pressure tester work I wonder?

I think all in all it is pretty smooth, its def not stalling out or throwing codes, so I think if after I replace all these items I might just call it good for now. Thanks for the help.
There is a schreoder valve on back of the fuel rail on the LH side just under the back of the upper intake. You connect the pressure tester there I believe.

Can you reset your adaptive settings? Maybe the shop would for you?
 
  #18  
Old 10-22-2018, 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by CollieRover
There is a schreoder valve on back of the fuel rail on the LH side just under the back of the upper intake. You connect the pressure tester there I believe.

Can you reset your adaptive settings? Maybe the shop would for you?
I have a Hawkeye Total, I can probably reset the settings. Any idea how?
 
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