What was that you said about journalists misquoting lawyers? Haha. Or ex-journalists now that I've switched to Art/Education.

You're right though. These engines would be awful out in the middle of nowhere. You'd never find parts. The LS engine is no doubt far more reliable and parts are more easily available pretty much everywhere but Europe.

To seriously consider an axle swap I'd really prefer axles with a 5 lug hub. That way I could at least have some spacer adapters made to fit the stock 16s. They would also have to already have limited slips at least as well as a lower gear ratio. Otherwise swapping just wouldn't be that cost effective. I agree with you that I think it would be cheaper in the long run to have an LS engine. I think you'd get around 15-17 mpg depending on how and where you drove it. Plus it wouldn't break nearly as often. I'd say you could do the engine/trans swap said and done for less than 4k. That's me including a manual transmission, not an automatic. Something like an NV4500 maybe. If I'm going through the trouble to do the swap, no way I would go back with an automatic.

You're on the right track with the stock panhard. My idea is to actually cut the stock mounts off of my parts truck and weld them back in the rear so that I can use the stock bar in the rear. Very cheap since I already have all the parts, and fit should be easy since it's all already designed for the truck.

 

Yet something else I didn't take off of my parts truck before selling it by the pound. Ugh.

 

Ok, so I came to a realization a few days ago. I was looking at my truck and I thought "huh, the front radius arms look longer than the rear." Pulled out a tape measure and sure enough, they're 10 cm longer! That's almost exactly the amount I want to move the rear axle back and I've got an extra set on my parts truck. I do have a few questions.

First, what are the chances of being able to drive on the stock rear shaft for a while before lengthening it? I'm not sure how much extra shaft there is there.

Second, cutting and welding the spring mounts. My welds are... Ok. They penetrate well, but not beautiful. I'm using a 140 mig with flux wire. I figure that's good enough with the frame as thin as it is. Is this thinking correct?

Also, the frame slopes down right after the spring as you can see in this picture. I'll need to move it back about 4".



I've also got to cut them out and I have no plasma cutter. This will require some wheel well modification anyway, so I'm thinking just cut some of the floor out and get at it with an angle grinder.

I've got a panhard to throw in, the watts will come out. Not an issue. I am, however, concerned about the gas tank clearing the panhard. Can I put the panhard on the front of the axle if I modify it to have a loop up for the diff and driveshaft? I'm also open to switching the tank with one that's shorter, preferably something I can find in a junk yard. Something about 9" shorter, close to the same width and depth. Any ideas? I'm sure modifying the current one is is out of the question, right?

I'd also be open to welding up my own, but don't know where to start and it would need to be made of steel since I can't weld aluminum (yet). If you've got any tips on that id love to hear them.

 

Referencing the owner's manual, is your model welder set up for TIG? If so, you could invest in the leads and be able to do a whole lot more with it. My best advice for putting beads down, if you are not confident in your penetration is to bevel each adjoining surface about 30-45 degrees. Test your heat on 2 pieces of scrap with identical material thickness. Don't focus on the puddle so much as melting the 2 separate pieces together with a tight loop or circle. Really get your head down close so that you can see exactly what is going on down there. If your bead stands high and shiny, you will know that you aren't burning hot enough. You need really good, solid penetration for automotive applications. Have you been practicing?

 

Not set up for TIG. Wish it were, but all the welders that were were out of my price range. I've been practicing a lot and the welds are getting better. Penetration is pretty solid. I need to invest in a better mask too, that would help a lot. Right now I've just got the handheld one that came with my welder. My biggest thing was that I was curious if a.) my welder was strong enough to make those spring mounts solid, and B.) can you even make a fuel cell out of steel? I've never heard of anyone doing that.

 

to get the most solid weld out of a low-range MIG welder, you have to bevel the edges of the material you are working with, that way you are starting your weld in the middle of the material and penetrating lower than what would-be the center if you were working from the top surface. Then you can put another bead down on top of your first. Steel is too heavy for something the size of a gas tank. Plastic or aluminum is the way to go.

 

Ok, so you think as long as I bevel I'm good? I've also heard that preheating the material with a torch helps and ill probably reinforce with extra flat stock attaching the mount to the frame.

 

Very good..yes, preheat your work with a rosebud. A Miller rep was demo'ing machines and explaining info on 1 of my PowerBlock shows last Sat and he actually said to bevel and preheat if your material is thicker than what the machine you are using is rated for. It's good practice to always bevel just about everything you are welding, especially a lightweight welder. You can get it done, just have to be forward-thinking. And investing in a good hood and lens will help immensely. You have to see well as it is an art form. Since you can't feel it, clear sight and steady hands is everything.

 

Awesome, much appreciated, Chubbs.

Anyone know about the stock rear shaft? I'm assuming no, but I'm not positive. Also curious if anyone has any ideas on possible junk yard replacement fuel tanks? I can go look through the local pick and pull, but if anyone has any ideas then I'd love to hear them

 

I came back to this thread after watching Alaska Offroad Warriors. It really stunk that the defender died (engine, diesel) then the series truck was disqualified and a damned Frankenstein Jeep driven by the "lower 48'rs" won, with a forty year old land cruiser closest behind. The other two were 4runners.

BUT, I did note that the Jeep, which was lengthened, had a small bock Chevy with added fuel injection, crazy good approach and departure angles, and what appeared to be very stout axles and driveshafts. A 4runner almost finished with a 4 cylinder and no lockers! HISTORY CHANNEL.

A bobbed, chopped, and swapped Disco II could walk away with the 100,000 dollar prize.

Just offering encouragement