Hi all,

Thought I'd share what I'm looking at tomorrow as my first in-person examination of potential purchases:

1. 2004 Disco SE7 - 102k miles - 1 female owner - Dark green on beige - Exceptionally clean in pictures, not yet sure on maintenance records, no appearance of skipped expenses (for example: michelin highway tires on it, which aren't cheap). Owner reports nothing wrong, one dent in one side.

Asking price: $6,200

2. 2000 Range Rover SE 4.6 - 137k miles - Owned for past 3 years by the same owner, bought from a dealer. Maintenance book of dealer-maintenance for many years. Passed inspection 3 months ago, new tires, interior looks good - outside is bit scratched/dinged but nothing major. Headliner sagging, no other problems reported.

Asking price: $4,200

3. 2004 Disco SE - 64k miles - This is either the diamond in the rough or the headache waiting to drain my bank account.

Beautiful exterior and interior, only reported problem is a bad driver's side window control (intermittently stops working). Owned for 5 years with 4-5k miles a year put on it. Owner stopped driving it 6 months back when the oil pan gasket started leaking. It's been sitting for 6 months, but has maintenance records.

Asking price: $4,500

....

I would make a cash lowball offer on the first if it looks clean, the 2nd I'm not sure if I'll love or not - depends on the condition and feel of driving a RR vs. Disco - might offer cash lowball there too because it's been for sale for like 3-5 months.

3rd one would have to be super clean and show no signs of overheating, having been run low on oil, etc....but if it's clean, a 64k mile '04 Disco for $4,500 is a steal.

...

Hope to find a great one and join ya'll soon

 

You are doing pretty good homework. When you test drive listen for the water fall sound in the dash. If so, there is air in the cooling system, either from a leak or in proper bleed and refill. For 3# he must be a very cautious guy or something is up. Make sure you ask him why. A leaking oil pan gasket, while nasty, should not constitute the truck sitting for 6th months. But at 64k it should still be in good shape.

If head gaskets have been changed on first 2 options, consider that a plus.

 

Thanks. The guy with #3 reported he has 3-4 other vehicles, his wife had gotten a new one, and so it sat not being used. It's plausible, but yeah, I want to make sure it didn't get "sideline'd" after it had been overheated, driven with low oil pressure, or some similar event.

Guy seems super confident that the car will be an immediate sale, but he's also pushing the immediate sale (i.e. "bring cash") angle. We'll see.

 

Number one sounds good.
Number two (not sure its a rr)
Number three its either a gem or a gremlin..... But I do know you should drive/listen to the engine for at least 20 min to listen for any knocking/slipped liners.
Take a head gasket test kit with you. Maybe a check engine scanner to see the previous codes? If you start really looking around it and the owner starts asking questions like "what are you looking for..." that kind of thing consider him trying to hide something from you.

 

I like #3.
The window up/down is probably just a switch.

Drive it for at least 10 miles.
Try to take it up to 79 MPH or so and see if the driveshaft vibrates.

Crawl under it and make sure the drive shafts have grease fittings.
Or else you'll be replacing drive shafts soon enough.

Also check for salt corrosion underneath.

 

Joe in PA,
Actually, you may benefit in selecting a ROVER with head gaskets already replaced.
I LOVE the 2004.
And, the great styling.
And, the low miles - 64,000.
feels GOOD to have a Rover that has not hit 100,000 miles..

You may have to get into head gaskets on the 2004 at 64,000 miles.
But, think positive. Maybe not.

Drive ANY of these for at least 10 miles. To prove out that the sleeves are not loose and tapping. And to prove out the drive shafts are not un balanced.

The older ones have a CDL lock function which will lock the drive train for no slipping - I think this goes up to 2001. But, you need to crawl under the rover to activate the feature. Not even a consideration - unless you are a hard core trail person.

I personally would go for the one which is plush inside and outside and the lowest miles.

At 64,000 miles - even the rubber factory mats will not have a hole in them from the drivers' foot on the gas..

When I bought my 2001 I dressed it up by:

1) New rubber mats - factory
2) Tire cover on the rear of it with a jungle scene on it.
3) Wheel center covers - mine were missing..
4) rubbed out all the scratches on the paint that I could.
5) waxed it.

Then I drove it cross country from Boulder, CO to Seattle and did not drive it all summer as I walked around town.

I am just now driving it again.

Good luck to you.
Glad you are being careful in getting a good D2.

 

Bring a scanner of OME sort. Check the operating temps both around town nd on the highway during a test drive. Check the color and condition if the coolant.

 

have the third one inspected by a LR mechanic before you buy it.

It will probablly in the near future need head gaskets and a front driveshaft rebuild, neither are big items if you do it yourself.
The oil leak would concern me, it could be anything from a loose bolt to a rear main seal $$$.

Also a 64k you probablly have a truck that has not been played with by to many people, which is a real advantage.

 

Amen on having a scanner connected (see actual temps, check engine light condition when light has been painted over, removed, etc.); and the about $50 exhaust gas in coolant chemical test kit - does maybe 15 tests, good for evaluation of any vehicle, especially those made in England. It changes color when exposed to coolant containing products of combustion. And the best is paying for a pro inspection, he won't have the "hots" for a new vehicle and overlook several things.

I recently went looking at something different from a Rover, drove great, under 100K, but then noticed odometer not moving.... and when fully warmed up oil PSI dropping to zero (had a factory oil gauge)... and then a ticking from front cover of engine....

Do your homework, even crawl under vehicle, bring a broom handle to press against valve covers and such to listen for strange noises, etc. Check for damp carpets (coolant leak from heater core). Mildew smell (flood damage).

And plan on $1000 of needed repairs. Very few people get the deal that RoxieMoxie did, a D2 for $2000, with 117 actual garage kept miles and oem gasoline from an eccentric owner.

 

Have a scanner is always a great tool to take with you. Go with your gut if it doesn't feel right walk away. Most likely you will be replacing the front prop shaft on the D II but we have all went threw that! Get ahold of me if you end up needing one, good luck with your purchase!!!