Looks like I finally was able to lower the temps with the soft spring stat
#1
Looks like I finally was able to lower the temps with the soft spring stat
Thanks to all for the advice and input on this. As a back story, I never had any overheating issues with the truck and never lost any coolant. I put an ultra gauge in a while back, and my temps were always on the high side despite having a complete new cooling system (radiator, hoses, pump, t-stat, sensor, fan, clutch, etc). I had also flushed the system multiple times over the last year (even though the parts were new).
I went thru a few different t-stats, and yet my temps were always around the following:
Highway: 206-208
Around town: 215-221
Stoplights/Traffic: 221-226
The thing that bothered me was, if I revved the engine up I would quickly lower the temps. Around town, I would drop it down into 3rd gear and go from cruising at say 218 down to 208. So to me, it was just not flowing.
So, even though I have flushed many times, I figured I would flush the heater core since that is the only stock part left. It ran full pressure and crystal clear.
My Hail Mary was to order the softer spring / lower temp stat. I got it from Justin at Lucky8 as recommended. So, while I have not done much testing, all my preliminary numbers show about a 10-15 degree drop. I didn't hit the highway, but around town it was 201-203 and left to idle after the drive it didn't go beyond 210. I will hit the highway later and see.
So, for those of you that have also been scratching your head as I have for a while over temps a bit hotter (but never overheating), I would suggest taking a look at the soft spring stat. It is OEM LR as well, I believe from the TD and/or Freelander.
As a side note, I didn't throw this in an a band aid. Everything else was changed, and I had also tested for things like exhaust gas, etc.
Here is the stat:
Also, for Buzz...just wanted to show you the flow when I flushed out the heater core again...was perfect.
I went thru a few different t-stats, and yet my temps were always around the following:
Highway: 206-208
Around town: 215-221
Stoplights/Traffic: 221-226
The thing that bothered me was, if I revved the engine up I would quickly lower the temps. Around town, I would drop it down into 3rd gear and go from cruising at say 218 down to 208. So to me, it was just not flowing.
So, even though I have flushed many times, I figured I would flush the heater core since that is the only stock part left. It ran full pressure and crystal clear.
My Hail Mary was to order the softer spring / lower temp stat. I got it from Justin at Lucky8 as recommended. So, while I have not done much testing, all my preliminary numbers show about a 10-15 degree drop. I didn't hit the highway, but around town it was 201-203 and left to idle after the drive it didn't go beyond 210. I will hit the highway later and see.
So, for those of you that have also been scratching your head as I have for a while over temps a bit hotter (but never overheating), I would suggest taking a look at the soft spring stat. It is OEM LR as well, I believe from the TD and/or Freelander.
As a side note, I didn't throw this in an a band aid. Everything else was changed, and I had also tested for things like exhaust gas, etc.
Here is the stat:
Also, for Buzz...just wanted to show you the flow when I flushed out the heater core again...was perfect.
#4
From what you are stating, you still are running to hot. With a factory t/stat in town driving is normally around 206, 120 to 212 at long idles and around 195 on the highway.
What is that creative plumbing you have done with your heater hoses? Also, have you replaced your radiator yet?
What is that creative plumbing you have done with your heater hoses? Also, have you replaced your radiator yet?
Yes... EVERYTHING is brand spanking new in the entire cooling system, sans the heater core. No funky plumbing at all. What you see is the garden hose running through the heater core to show the flow thru is perfect. Being that was the only original piece of the system, I figured I would make buzz happen and flush that yet again.
My quagmire was that everything was solid, nothing funky was going on and everything was new...yet I was running hot. Never overheating, never had to add a drop of coolant, etc. I'm running T6 oil and it is always fresh, as well as a 301 filter. You would only know it was hot due to the ultra gauge.
And yes...if it is still too hot so be it. I can live with it. It has gone the last 20K with temps 15 degrees higher than with this stat...so a decrease of anything was welcome. Everything traditional did squat for it, and even things like Water Wetter didn't drop it a single degree.
#5
I found it...it was a previous thread where I was asking about running without a t-stat (to test my theory and see where temps would be). Mike, you had said, "You never run without a t/stat, especially when you most likely just have a plugged up radiator. Once that is replaced if you still want it cooler, then contact Justin at Luck8 and buy either a soft spring or diesel after market t/stat and your problems will be gone."
Here is the thread...and yes...I am happy with the results as of now so the soft spring is working for me!
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-t-stat-49479/
Here is the thread...and yes...I am happy with the results as of now so the soft spring is working for me!
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-t-stat-49479/
#6
As I recall, you also took a fan thru the radiator, and before that a piece of fan flying around in the fan shroud.. We are lucky you have survived in one piece. And I believe I am correct that you have changed the coolant temp sensor. Of course, you may want to unplug it and see what the UG says the temp is. If it thinks it is still 20F, that might be a ground or short. My D1 goes to -40F on the scanner with the ECT unplugged. If you had a minor short (green goo on connector, rubbed place in wire insulation, that "parallel" resistance would make the effective circuit a little lower, which makes the ECU think it is warmer.
So it does seem like an improvement, and we shall see what the road brings, please keep posting. BTW, what is the current price for that stat?
So it does seem like an improvement, and we shall see what the road brings, please keep posting. BTW, what is the current price for that stat?
Last edited by Savannah Buzz; 05-21-2012 at 04:32 PM.
#7
Yes...been a wild ride with the cooling Buzz! If I just left it be from the start, it would still be driving trouble free I'm sure hehehe. Obviously fixed a ton that wasn't broken to begin with. And the fan thru the radiator...a bad part. And then another bad part with the new stat that didn't open. Just my good luck I suppose. Ever wonder where my nickname of SNAFU comes from? Hehehe.
Yep...all checks out with the sensors and such. Trust me bud, I cover all my bases! The stat was like 55 plus shipping, so better than a regular one at the dealer.
Yep...all checks out with the sensors and such. Trust me bud, I cover all my bases! The stat was like 55 plus shipping, so better than a regular one at the dealer.
#8
I do agree with DM that your temps still seem a little elevated, compared to some others, thatis why I thought perhaps the ECU was being fooled by wiring to the coolant sensor. Sorta like out of calibration. But you certainly have seen an improvemnt. I guess an IR thermometer reading of the pipe that exists the block with hot coolant toward the "T" might be a reference point as well. On a D1, the stat is inside the hole that pipe erupts from.
#9
#10
Correct Ralph, the post could look misleading if ou don't read thru it. I'm showing an average drop of around 15. Went to the mall tonight for a short trip and was pleased. It showed the following:
Back roads 40-50 MPH was at 199.4 most of the time.
Stoplight sitting: 203
Long idle letting it sit for a bit after the drive: 210
Highway for a short time: 196
Back roads 40-50 MPH was at 199.4 most of the time.
Stoplight sitting: 203
Long idle letting it sit for a bit after the drive: 210
Highway for a short time: 196