First off I am new to Land Rovers. I just bought a 97 Discovery SE7(110,000miles) that had been sitting for about two years. I was fortunately able to get it started by jumping it. Drove it home about five miles when I pulled onto my street the tach started acting kinda funny. I was able to get to my drive with no problems. Tried to start it after I had turned it off and was only able to get clicking out of the starter, I then trickle charged the battery overnight and was able to start it unassisted in the morning. It seemed to idle fine off and on throughout the day as I was working on different things. I then decided I was going to drive to the parts store and it died in the street in front of the house. Now it will not stay running, it will fire and rev for about 20 to 30 seconds and die.

-battery has a full charge and has been checked out by multiple sources.
-I believe the alternator is good, although it has not been checked.
-I was able to get an OBDII scanner and came up with a plethora of codes
-P1194 Fuel Air Metering
-P1193 " " "
-P1187 " " "
-P1191 " " "
-P0300 Misfire
-P1314 Ign Sys or Misfire
-P1313 " " "
-P0183 Fuel Temp Sensor Circuit High Input

Is this all related? Could it be as simple as a fuel filter or Mass Air Flow Sensor?

 

alternator is no good.... mine did that 2

 

First, a somewhat used battery, having sat for 2 years is usually junk cause it won't hold more then a surface charge.
If that were my truckI would take the battery out and have it checked/replaced if necessary. Then go to the auto parts store and have the battery/alternator system rechecked, should be between 13.6 and 14.4 volts at 2000 RPM's.
Then go get a full tank of hi octane with 1 or 2 cans of good gas additive. Let the fuel system clean itself out and see what then still needs to be fixed.
Make sure you chance the oil, check/replace your air filter along with your fuel filter.
Get back to us and let us know how it turns out.

 

I have replaced the battery with my truck battery, even though the battery checked out with multiple tests, I am now going to take out the alternator and have it tested. side note: went to take off wheel, to change out fuel filter, and cannot find the lug wrench. My four way only goes to 7/8, any clue as to what size those bolts are.

 

It is a 1" 1/16" 6 POINT socket, it MUST be a 6 point socket, anything else will mess them up bad and new lugs are $20 EACH.


Replace the alternator.
Remember that until all of that old gas is gone it wont run right and you MUST use premium gas, no if's and's or but's about it.

 

I have an embarrising update. The gas tank was empty. I did not think of that since the person I bought this off of said the gauge was broke and he had put about 10 gallons in the tank. Oh well life goes on and we all learn, especially me. I am still however getting three codes, I believe they are associated with the O2 sensors.

 

I am definately using premium 92octane.

 

lmao! haha.. oh well man. you most likely need the o2 sensors replaces all four or/and the MAF sensor. at your mileage wouldn't hurt to get both if there is no record of them being replaced or if the MAF is some cheap part and not an LR specific MAF.

 

90% of O2 codes on a LR are because of the need for a tune up.
SO dont replace those O2's yet.
You have 4 of them and they start at $125 each last time I checked.
And they must be replaced in pairs, so both fronts or both rears for example.

 

I'm glad I can entertain. Plugs and wires are definitely next, any suggestions?