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Loud Clicking noise after greasing U Joints

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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:23 AM
  #1  
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From: Denver, CO
Default Loud Clicking noise after greasing U Joints

I have a 2002 Disco II I have had since July. There was next to no maintenance done on this vehicle other than basic oil changes.
Long story short, I just put a OME 3" lift on it and greased up the U Joints. Everything ran and sounded fine after the lift install. That is until I greased the U joints. Since greasing I have been hearing a loud clicking noise when I am driving over 30 mph.
I am looking for a new front drive shaft and am torn between a Tom Woods double Cardan or the heavy duty high angle double cardan from toddco suspensions.
I am currently not driving the truck, but am in desperate need to get it running.
Any suggestions and help would be greatly appreciated.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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did you have to remove plug on slip joint and install zerk, to grease? on my original front shaft that zerk was in short clearance of the cross member and cat.
 

Last edited by dusty1; Sep 23, 2013 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:28 AM
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The end of the shaft without grease fittings could be about to snap, if this happens at speed, shaft will be whirling around and attempt to beat a hole in the tranny. Frequently the shaft wins the battle. There is also a rebuild article for the front prop shaft in our tech area.
 
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Last edited by Savannah Buzz; Sep 22, 2013 at 11:34 AM.
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 11:43 AM
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I just greased using the existing nipples. I cleaned them off first and filled until I saw the clean grease coming out.
I just received a rebuild kit, but how hard is it to complete with basic tools available? I was going to purchase a new front drive shaft and then rebuild the existing one to keep on hand for a spare.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2013 | 12:27 PM
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Damn it, just got under there to remive the drive shaft and all the nuts have been stripped. How in the world do I get this off now?
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 07:38 AM
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the nuts are all nylock if you heat them with a torch the plastic should melt and you should be able to pull them off with a pair of vise grips.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
the nuts are all nylock if you heat them with a torch the plastic should melt and you should be able to pull them off with a pair of vise grips.
Huh?
Even nylocks have steel threads, they aren't going to "pull off".

He might be able to turn them with vice grips, but more than likely it's going to be dremel cutoff tool time.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 11:52 AM
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If you want, I can send you a PDF file on how to rebuild your shaft or if going for a new one, consider going to Bill Davis at Great Basins Rover in Salt Lake City for on of the best ones available.
Don't get carried away with a double double, which is a waste of money for your truck and needs.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2013 | 02:29 PM
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Before you take off the drive shaft and trash it -
Look at the grease nipple on the front drive shaft which is on the drive shaft itself.
This nipple can hit the cat convertor. Take a look at the cat.
I was just under there and debating leaving on the grease nipple. I got about 5mm clearance between the end of the grease nipple and the cat converter.
I guess I will remove the grease nipple.
Cat converter is expensive to replace.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2013 | 06:28 AM
  #10  
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I am not driving the truck for now (bummed about that), I did a lot of research on here Sunday and actually purchased a Tom Woods drive shaft from Lucky 8. Mike, I know you have a lot of experience here, what is different between the Tom Woods and the drive shafts from Great Basins?
I haven't had time to try and heat up the nuts, I will try this Wednesday and see what happens.
Thank you all for the replies and advice.
 
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