louder engine tick with Rotella T6
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 16,322
Likes: 88
From: Savannah Georgia
That sounds like "the tick" from a slipping cylinder sleeve. When it warms up, starts tapping against fire ring of head gasket. As speed increases, the slipping liner cannot stay in sync with the piston reversing, so the up/down travel shrinks and the tapping stops. But it is still moving, just not as far.
I have always wondered if cheap gas / oil residue on the cylinder sleeve might cook it in place for some period of time. That's what we need now, some voodoo chocolate chicken blood to mix in the fuel to glue that slipping sleeve in place.
I have always wondered if cheap gas / oil residue on the cylinder sleeve might cook it in place for some period of time. That's what we need now, some voodoo chocolate chicken blood to mix in the fuel to glue that slipping sleeve in place.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 351
Likes: 22
From: Pacific Northwest
That sounds like "the tick" from a slipping cylinder sleeve. When it warms up, starts tapping against fire ring of head gasket. As speed increases, the slipping liner cannot stay in sync with the piston reversing, so the up/down travel shrinks and the tapping stops. But it is still moving, just not as far.
I have always wondered if cheap gas / oil residue on the cylinder sleeve might cook it in place for some period of time. That's what we need now, some voodoo chocolate chicken blood to mix in the fuel to glue that slipping sleeve in place.
I have always wondered if cheap gas / oil residue on the cylinder sleeve might cook it in place for some period of time. That's what we need now, some voodoo chocolate chicken blood to mix in the fuel to glue that slipping sleeve in place.
As long as it's not my oil pump, I don't really care.
Excellent theory about residue - this, we have not discussed before. Might explain a lot since it seems to calm down and reappear for a lot of us.
Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 261
Likes: 1
From: North of Boston
Also sounds like you haven't replaced your t-stat from stock to 180 t-stat. My ticking stopped when I switched out t-stat. I run 20-50 in summer (Castrol or Royal Purple) and then T6 in winter. I'm in Boston where it can get cold which explains the reason for the switch to a less thicker oil for winter use. Incidently, when running 20-50 during the summer months, ticking flared up occasionally; mind you this was pre-180 t-stat. So, there is some merit to using the thicker oil and minimizing the engine tick in the event you choose NOT to trade out your t-stat. And having switched to T6 about a month ago, along with the new t-stat, Tick-b-gone. I change the oil every 5k. Purchased my '03 in Feb 2013 and she had 69k for miles. I'm the second owner and have 82k miles. No off-roading; just every day car hauling kids around and the tail wagers.
FYI
engine temp pre t-stat hovered between 200-225f.
New t-stat range is high 180s (about 80% of the time, to a high of 202.)
FYI
engine temp pre t-stat hovered between 200-225f.
New t-stat range is high 180s (about 80% of the time, to a high of 202.)
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 820
Likes: 230
From: Boston, MA
Also sounds like you haven't replaced your t-stat from stock to 180 t-stat. My ticking stopped when I switched out t-stat. I run 20-50 in summer (Castrol or Royal Purple) and then T6 in winter. I'm in Boston where it can get cold which explains the reason for the switch to a less thicker oil for winter use. Incidently, when running 20-50 during the summer months, ticking flared up occasionally; mind you this was pre-180 t-stat. So, there is some merit to using the thicker oil and minimizing the engine tick in the event you choose NOT to trade out your t-stat. And having switched to T6 about a month ago, along with the new t-stat, Tick-b-gone. I change the oil every 5k. Purchased my '03 in Feb 2013 and she had 69k for miles. I'm the second owner and have 82k miles. No off-roading; just every day car hauling kids around and the tail wagers.
FYI
engine temp pre t-stat hovered between 200-225f.
New t-stat range is high 180s (about 80% of the time, to a high of 202.)
FYI
engine temp pre t-stat hovered between 200-225f.
New t-stat range is high 180s (about 80% of the time, to a high of 202.)
4th Gear
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: Royal Oak, MI
Also sounds like you haven't replaced your t-stat from stock to 180 t-stat. My ticking stopped when I switched out t-stat. I run 20-50 in summer (Castrol or Royal Purple) and then T6 in winter. I'm in Boston where it can get cold which explains the reason for the switch to a less thicker oil for winter use. Incidently, when running 20-50 during the summer months, ticking flared up occasionally; mind you this was pre-180 t-stat. So, there is some merit to using the thicker oil and minimizing the engine tick in the event you choose NOT to trade out your t-stat. And having switched to T6 about a month ago, along with the new t-stat, Tick-b-gone. I change the oil every 5k. Purchased my '03 in Feb 2013 and she had 69k for miles. I'm the second owner and have 82k miles. No off-roading; just every day car hauling kids around and the tail wagers.
FYI
engine temp pre t-stat hovered between 200-225f.
New t-stat range is high 180s (about 80% of the time, to a high of 202.)
FYI
engine temp pre t-stat hovered between 200-225f.
New t-stat range is high 180s (about 80% of the time, to a high of 202.)
I ran T-6 all summer and the ticking got so bad that I was embarrased to go through drive-throughs. I'm convinced it was the liner issue. After reading several threads on this forum I changed the thermostat (lower temp) and the ticking went away immediately.
Curt '04 Disco