As some of you know, my disco has trouble starting. When I turn the key it will crank and crank, but not turn over. It rarely ever starts on the first try (in fact, I can't even remember the last time it did). Most commonly, it takes about 20-30 seconds of cranking (spread out over a few attempts to start), before the engine will turn over.

I've been a little slow troubleshooting my starting issue after doing the 120K service (little low on cash), but last night I finally feel like I've made progress. I picked up a fuel pressure test guage and tested my pressure at the rail. After fully depressurizing the system, I turned the key to the II position and watched the pressure guage. It steadily rose to 20 psi and stopped (about 1.4 bar). Once the fuel pump kicked off, it slightly dropped to maybe 19 psi. Then I turned the ignition off and turned the key to the II position once more. Again, the pressure only rose to 20 psi.

After testing the pressure with the engine off, I wanted to see if anything changed at idle. After starting the truck and letting it idle for a few, the pressure stayed between 26 and 28 psi (1.7 - 1.9 bar), well below the 34-37 normal operating range.

Now that I know I'm getting low fuel pressure, do you guys think it could be the fuel pressure regulator? Could I just pinch the return line to verify (i.e., if I pinch it and pressure rises, then I would know the regulator isn't the culprit and it is likely the pump)? If more information would help, what could I test next?

 

Sounds like the valve on the fuel pump allowing your fuel to flow back into the tank.
Pretty sure you are looking at a new pump assembly.

 

Do you know any places to get one at a decent price? I know it is gonna be expensive, but if I can save some $$ I would love that. Do you know if the pump repair kits, like the one roverconnection sells, would do the trick?

Also, I'm assuming I am advanced evap, but my evap code under the hood doesn't match the two shown on atlantic british or roverconnection. I've got a 98 disco and my evap code is WLRXEO124001. Thanks guys.

 

Try Rover Connection for starters and go from there.

 

I'm not sure if I need an advanced evap pump or a non-AE pump. I looked under my hood to find my "evap family" and it says WLRXEO124001. What the hell is that? On roverparts.com, it says you are either VLR1124AYPFE (AE) or VLR1060AYPBC (non-AE). So if my evap family isn't one of those, how can I tell if I am advanced evap? (here is the link http://www.roverparts.com/TechTips/k...ons_system.cfm). I thought all the disco I's after 96 were advanced evaps. Just want to makre sure before I start shelling out $$ to fix this pump.

 

Nevermind about the advanced evap question. I just looked under the hood and see that I've got the evap canister rather than the absorption canister (which means I've got advanced evap).

Thanks Mike. I've been on there and they have a pump rebuild kit for around $200. Any problem you see with going for the kit rather than a completely new pump?

 

did you play with the regulator yet?

 

No, I haven't messed with it at all. I did go out this morning to see if my pressure was holding overnight or if it wasn't even holding pressure, on top of having overall low pressure. When I checked the fuel at the rail, about 15 hours after the last time I started it, I had no pressure at all. How long should a normal fuel system stay pressurized?

 

Some say it should stay pressurized for days, but I dont know for a fact.
Even with the system empty the truck should start right away, my truck sat for two months this last summer and started first turn of the key.
And to help with any confusion...turning over a engine is cranking it and starting it is it starting to run.
"It takes 20-30 seconds of turning the engine over (or cranking it) before it starts and runs in the morning"
Not trying to be a jerk, but most people find that easier to understand.

 

No offense taken.