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Low oil pressure again after new oil pump

Old May 7, 2010 | 07:45 PM
  #11  
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You can NOT check the oil level with the engine running, the crank shaft is slinging oil everywhere and you will never get a accurate reading.

After you have been driving for 30 min or so shut it down and then check the oil, you will need to wipe the dipstick clean and then check the oil.
If the dip stick is dry but the crankcase was full before you started then you know it is a oil return problem.
Now keep in mind that it takes a full 10+ min for all the oil to return to the sump after you shut it off so if when you check it after running it is at the "ADD" mark then dont worry because your oil returns are fine.
 
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Old May 7, 2010 | 09:12 PM
  #12  
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Eaglewing, you'll find the specs for the oil pump pressures in the rave cd (download below in my signature)

Look in "general spec data, information, 4.0v8) 30 - 40 psi @ 2400rpm.warm
In another section, there's reference to idle press, but the oil light activates @ 8psi, so as I mentioned, anything above that is ok.

Also the pressure relief activates @ 50psi, so don't look for more than that.

luck,greg
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 01:01 PM
  #13  
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Default Low oil pressure again after new oil pump

Thank you guys
You have taken me back to the original question, “highway driving and low oil pressure”.
This could be an “oil return problem”.
It will be a simple check to do a 30 minute run on the highway and check the dipstick as Spike said.

I will do a 30 minute run next week to check this.
I live off road on a small island on the north coast of British Columbia.
This island has a maximum of about 10 minutes of paved road.
The rest of the island has gravel roads and logging roads.
So next week I will take a ferry to the paved 2 lane highway to civilization and do some test runs for 30 minutes to check on the oil return to the sump.

I will get back to you with the results.
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #14  
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Default Low oil pressure again after new oil pump

One follow up question
Okdiscoguy asked if the timing cover had been replaced.
The old invoices did not show any entry for one.
What are we looking for on the old timing cover for problems?
Or should I just replace it anyway?
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #15  
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i bet your cam bearings are worn out also...... you really need a rebuild (proper one) to get that oil pressure up........


i would buy a used motor with good oil pressure...


i spent 6000 trying to rebuild a motor that had bad cam bearings.... it never worked out for me... i bought a used good motor and went on with my life..


just saying...thats what i would do before i sink anymore money into a front oil pump cover thats probly not the problem
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 01:30 PM
  #16  
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If your returns are blocked, do you really want to drive down the road w/o oil in your sump?

If I thought for an instant that was a possibility, I'd pull the valve covers on the spot and look.

just my opinion

luck,greg
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 06:28 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by eaglewing
One follow up question
Okdiscoguy asked if the timing cover had been replaced.
The old invoices did not show any entry for one.
What are we looking for on the old timing cover for problems?
Or should I just replace it anyway?
The oil pump is housed inside the front engine cover.
If the front cover is worn then the oil pump will wear out faster and may not provide enough oil pressure.


No need to go to the main land, just hold the throttle open at 2000 rpm for 30 min.
Let it return to idle, shut it off and check the oil.
 
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Old May 9, 2010 | 03:40 PM
  #18  
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Default Low oil pressure again after new oil pump

This Mother’s day I spent quality time with my BRG 1998 DI (121k miles).
My wife was busy with her art projects (this worked well for me)

The first thing that I did was the 30 minute 2000rpm engine test while running in the carport.
This was the test to see if the oil return passages were clear.
I checked the dipstick before starting and after running for 30 minutes.
If the oil level was at “full” to start and above “add” after 30 minutes of running, the return passage are working.

Good news, the oil level at the end of running only dropped about 3/8”.
This would indicate that the 3 engine flushes have the engine passages very very clean.
The bad news is that I have not yet found the reason for the low oil pressure.

The second thing I did was to come to grips with “I am on the slippery slope to financial ruin”. I have been here before with 2 Austin Healers and 3 Alfa Romeos at the same time. The main point in my “attitude adjustment” was I miss my BRG Austin Healey 3000 that my wife and I bought new in England, toured the factory at Abingdon, and drove the car 9000 miles in Europe in the summer of 1967. I kept this car for 39 years in original condition, reconditioned it, cruised at 100mph like it was new, and sold it finally when I moved to living off road. I really miss that car and I need a new BRG project, the Discovery. It will take time and money, but it will keep me challenged and amused.

Jay Leno once said that British Cars need you.
So I am now committed to the fact that I am the steward for this BRG Discovery.
So let’s get on with it.

Next step is to get the oil pressure gauge installed.
In the end I know I may need another engine, but the learning curve now is great.
Give it some time.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 01:18 PM
  #19  
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I have a 96 and 97 disco that had many of problems, including oil pressure....

On the 97, we pulled the valve covers and noticed an insane amount of sludge and gunk.....then we pulled the intake manifold....same thing.

Then we jacked up the truck and dropped the oil pan and removed the pickup tube, which was about 45% clogged....

After spraying engine degreaser all over the top and bottom of the engine, we blasted the heads thoroughly and did the same to the intake manifold...that high pressure water opened up all the clogged ports...after taking out the plugs, I put some WD-40 and diesel fuel into each cylinder to prevent any rust.

Then the new pickup was installed as well as the oil pan, then the intake manifold and the valve covers were reinstalled....with no spark plugs installed, the engine was spun over a lot to empty the liquid out of the cylinders, then new plugs were put in, as well as oil and oil filter...when the truck started it smoked for about 30 minutes, but then stopped smoking.

It's running great now thanks to a high pressure bath, and a few parts.

We did the same thing to the 96, but also pulled the front cover, and the timing chain was shot...we replaced the timing gear set and chain, also replaced the oil pump gears and added a new water pump, and serpentine belt....that truck is running great as well...

Also, I've never seen a 4.0 with a front cover that was so badly worn that it needed to be replaced. Usually new gears just need to be installed.
 
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Old Jul 20, 2010 | 09:39 PM
  #20  
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Default blast the heads

Thank you shaka khan
I almost missed your post here on the D2 site, I spend my time with the D1’s.
Your approach sounds interesting and that you had good results on two D1’s.
This summer I building a house with a new LR garage, this low oil pressure project has been put on hold until this Fall.
I have done the bottom end and have confirmed that all is good there.
The PO’s mechanic did the oil pump, water pump, etc under the front cover. To make sure this will be the first area to pull off and confirm that things were done properly.
Next stage is the pull the top off of the engine and go at it. My goal is to save the engine at minimum cost. If the engine is toast, then the $$$ will be spent on a diesel.
Will keep you posted when things happen again.
 
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