PICS pretty please, I'm all about the home remedies and avoiding the shops. Thats why my vw is still running

 

You keep mentioning dealer. People that get on here do so to avoid the dealer. An indy shop will charge you $1500. The reason I listed $500 is because it will compensate for any tools the average joe may not have in order to complete the swap. It is soooo easy. It looks daunting to most people, and they are afraid they are going to mess something up. Almost anyone with the proper guidance can do it in a weekend.

Can't seem to find a pic of the valve. It has an extra ridge that breaks up the deposits near the end when it seats. Not installed until '96 and some sources say that not all got them. My buddies 2K did not have them. Don't know if someone had replaced with an inferior set, but he had his head gaskets replaced and still had some stumbling and mis-fires. Turned out they missed checking the valves at the shop.

If it is cold outside and you are running on the highway, it will not get up to temp. I am not going to argue that this may be a temporary fix so you can still use your truck for light driving in town. Sounds like it may be. I am just stating that it is not permenant.

90% of the time people don't bleed the system correctly the first time. Air pockets are trapped in the heater, and then pop out while running.

 

Thanks for the great info. I asked my mechanic buddy and he said race car drivers do this. an I was like yeah the dudes a race car driver.

 

yeah man sounds like air in the system to me if it had a bad hg it would almost imeadiatly overheat or like okdisco said a crappy aftermarket part will do that too.i wouldnt do this to my truck id fix it for the couple hundred in gaskets and beer but thats just me i dont do anything to rig it i want it to last and like okdisco said these trucks run at a certain temp for a reason.i have had race cars too but none that said landrover on the hood

 

I hear both ends of the spectrum here, if you bought it cheap and your plan is to drive it as hard as you can as long as it holds up without spending anymore than a few bucks at a time, this bending of the thermostat may allow you to extend your thrills a little longer than just letting it sit. And you'll just dump it and get something else cheap later on.

However, if like most of the people here, you have a significant investment in your Rover, you understand it and plan to maintain it as well as you can and enjoy it as long as you can, then you probably don't want to start doing things like the bend the damn thermostat to release the pressure, especially when you understand that if there is excessive pressure there, most likely the root cause should be identified and resolved correctly.

And there are some people in between those two camps. So I thinh the horse has sufficiently expired at this point.

 

I just think there are several issues Land ROver was completely brainless on. Like no grease fittings on the drive shaft. ANd this overheating bull****. I do have a significant investment in this pretty turd cuz Land Rover has serious engineering oversights. If I can mod the drive shaft I can mod the t-stat. Guess thats why I have two parts trucks now. Rover owners are masochists

 

I understand people wanting to do the fix right. I'm going on 4 months now without any overheating at all. The truck runs at the normal operating temps even at 90degrees outside. Even if u have a bunch of money wrapped up n your truck you have to realize they aren't worth much at this stage of their lives. A rational person can't put 1500 bux in a fix if u can't do the hg repair yourself. Especially when a nice decent mileage truck is worth 5k tops. That would simply make you stupid not a do it right type guy. I simply posted this up to allow people like myself that know they aren't worth that much to enjoy their truck. I love my disco 2. So please don't think I'm bashing them. I just know what my trucks worth and what's a justified amount to put into it. Cheers guys.

 

Flyin if you would put all those bends together , and drill the hole instead of bending the valve , how big hole would be , 1/8 , 1/4 in diameter? Bending is matter of interpretation , your hand could be stronger than mine , my pliers could be sharper than yours and such.I am interested about this modification.

 

I normally don't pipe in on DII's since I don't have one.

It's been known for as long as I can remember, horizontal stats may trap air far more often than vertical stats.

We used to drill a 3/16" hole in the top rim of horiz. flow stats to ensure flow.

Vertical flow stats (if working), rarely trap air.

In support of what OK sez' read the rave, you'll see the controlling temps of these engines is in a tight, narrow band.

If it doesn't achieve correct temps, it will not run efficiently (to the extent these things can).

I also support flyin' for trying, (nice rhyme) I'm a rulebreaker, too.

Just man up and post if it doesn't go well.

luck,greg

 

I would just drill some 1/4 in holes. I would do 3 of them to start and see what happens. These holes are simply relief holes so air won't get trapped. This fix I did on my lr may not and most likely not work on a hg issue that's large. My issue was the air getting trapped above the stat before it can enter the radiator. The holes will stop this from happening. The side effect being a cold engine temp for a little longer in cold weather. My heat didn't work as well as it did but still worked and the fron window defrost was enough to remove snow and ice in a matter of minutes. The truck would get up to temp eventually. This slow warming could most likely be fixed by using less holes or bends in the stat. Since modding the stat I haven't had to add coolant or anything. I am also using standard coolant vs the pink stuff it came with because it was getting expensive when it would overheat and burp out a half gallon at a time via the overflow tube on the resevoir. I still look at the temp gauge constantly for some reason but it runs the same at all times after warm. The guage runs a tiny tiny bit higher than it did with the stat unmodded. I'm assuming this is because of no restriction at all and not allowing the coolant to cool to the same level but to a less attentive person u may never notice the difference. I believe a bottle of water wetter would bring this to normal or lower. Keep in mind my electric fan doesn't work at all and I have one ordered now. The a/c works great and even when it's hot out with no electric fan it runs exactly the same temps with it on. Please understand I'm not telling anyone to do this just stating this may help and it may not be a permanent fix. Ohh if u drill u will have to press the t stat from the top to stop it from pushing up and depressing the spring and not keeping it solid to drill. If someone does this mod please post back with ur results good or bad I'd like to hear from u. I will post periodically if something starts happening.