It is a 6 sided lug nut so if you use a 6 sided socket it will be a better fit.
I will hammer mine on, loosen the lug, then with the lug still on the truck wiggle/beat the socket off the lug.
Then move onto the next one, once they are all loose then you can remove them by hand.

 

An impact wrench won't cause harm provided you use the proper 27mm (or 1 1/16") 6pt socket.

You don't want the shop to use an impact putting them back on because they will over tighten them, unless they really know, and care, what they are doing. I always use an impact to put them on, but dial it back so it doesn't over tighten, then finish with my torque wrench set to 100ft/lb.

It's bad for a torque wrench to use it to loosen bolts or nuts.

The best "tire tool" is a 1/2" drive flex head ratchet with a 27mm deep socket. Loosen the nuts, then bend the ratchet 90 degrees and spin them off. It's very quick. I've used that set up for the last 35 years.

Never-Sieze on the wheel studs once or twice a year will make your life much easier.

 

AND on the wheel surfaces that contact the hub.

I recently spent 2 hours getting the front wheels off of a friend's D2. Not unique to these at all....anything with alloy wheels touching a steel surface tends to get like this.

Same thing was happening on the 96 or so F150s when some genius at Ford decided to put the exhaust in FRONT of the rear wheel on the passenger's side. Moisture + dissimilar metals is bad.

 

Um, Never Seize on lug studs? i could be wrong, but isnt that a bit of a NO-NO?
they could loosen up easier going down the road, sure it helps with getting the lug nuts off, but ive heard that you can get in big trouble for that... just my $0.02

 

i had painted wheels once and shop tightened lugs down paint broke at lug nut contact and wheel fell off while driving not fun.... always double check torque specs!!!

re torque after a few miles

 

I was frustrated with many of mine spinning so I just took an hour or so and tore them all off. I have black painted wheels so you never know they are missing.

 

I have been using grease on my wheel studs for 20 plus years and on the hub and face of anything that has alloy wheels. The nuts always come off like they should and the wheels come off the hub with one hand.

 

No.
Lug nuts aren't retained by corrosion, they are retained by the design of the wheels and the tension that's created between the parts. That's why old style flame cute white spoke wheels had to have the lug nuts tightened every so often, the wheels were of an unsafe design and there was no tension on the lug nuts.
If you torgue the lug nuts to the specified torque they won't come loose on their own.
I've been using never-seize on lug nuts for over 35 years. I've never had a single lug nut loosen on it's own.

If you install the wheel correctly, and torque the lug nuts properly, there's no need to re-torque. In 40 years of changing wheels I've never re-torqued a lug nut and never had one come loose, much less a wheel come off.
That said, any time I have wheels installed by a tire shop, which is pretty rare, I loosen the lug nuts and torque them properly.

 

As anitchrist said, absolutely not. I've been using never seize for years, including on race cars. Pretty much everyone does.

The last time I had a loose wheel was on my '97 Ferd F150 with the 17" off road package wheels. It happened several times, and I complained (loudly). Turned out that the taper on the nuts supplied wasn't the same as that of the wheels and they were backing off. I don't recall what the deal was - almost all street wheels are 60 deg and race wheels are 45. This might be an oddball, or there just wasn't enough surface area.

Scary stuff. It was handled by a recall.

 

Yeah at the time the only 1 1/16" 3/4" drive socket I could find was a 12 pointer. The stupid thing cost $20 from sears (I needed one and Sears is 15 minutes away and harbor freight is 50 mins). I will end up buying a 3/4" drive set eventually from harbor freight and they are 6 pointed. The 12 pointer has worked well though thus far, the 3/4" drive sockets though are pretty beefy and don't flex at all. I don't think I could have gotten my tires off without my 32" 3/4" drive wrench, even with that a couple lug nuts were on hella tight. Next time I take it to get the tires rotated I'm going to tell the guys to torques them to 103 pounds.