OK, I can still feel the solenoid energize but it is really lethargic (if that makes sense). It used to be immediate then would de-energize right away after i took my foot off the brake. Now it has a 10 second delay before it de-energize. So, I can shift into any gear for 10 seconds after I take my foot off the brake. That doesn't seem normal as I remember.

 

Did you adjust cleaned XYZ switch when reinstalled? You mentioned having an issue withe cable and nothing about checking for proper switch adjustment. Even new switches need to be checked for adjustment or S&M may sill be there.
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When you say adjust, do you mean back off on the two screws go through the gears then tighten the two?
I took it out again tonight and noticed two of the wires popped out that connect to the contacts. I tried to put them back with a tap from a flat head screw driver. They seemed to sit back in place but I am guessing that is my problem.

 

Switch adjustment is basically just ensuring all shift indications indicate properly. If they don't bolts need to be loosened enough to allow switch rotation through small adjustment range until indications normal. Without LR tool it requires somebody to view indications as switch adjusted and tightened back down. If done solo need to get out from under and check. As I remember yours didn't indicate normal prior to cleaning.

Two broken wires to the connector pins could be original or new problem. May be time for replacement of switch unless you can find a pin extractor and pins or plug with pigtail. Good used switch for 60-85 bucks likely best alternative.
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I was thinking it was the original issue as well. Other than that everything in the switch looks really clean.

 

I'm at a loss. New to me switch came today. Same exact symptoms. M S flash and no indication of gear in the odometer display or red line at the shifter. I know it was discussed that the ECU wont show the code if its fixed but I am wondering, does the Trans ECU fault need cleared as well?

 

When installing my switch and bolts tightened the shift indications were not correct. Small adj was made, checked again, they were fine and bolts tightened.

If used switch purchased it may be faulty as well. Most used parts come from junked vehicles and I'd like to know how the sellers "test" the x,y,z switches are checked prior to sale.

It was discussed recently and replied my ScanGaugeII would show a trans code or pending every time after going into reverse or S&M lights flashed. Easily cleared and no longer in limp mode until next reverse.

Prior to replacing mine codes were cleared, not in limp mode w/o S&M flashing. Doubt that stored code cause of faulty shift indications and S&M flashing. Do you have a good scanner, checked and cleared codes?
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Was you M S blinking because it was not aligned?
Could this be a fluid issue? Would it trip so quickly?
I tried to trace the wire loom from the switch connector and it goes up over the transmission and I could not reach it.
This video shows me clearing the code and then it faulting immediately even without my Disco running.


This video shows my exact issue

I guess it could be a bad xyz but with the different kind of fault indicators how likely are they to be exactly the same?
This is frustrating...

 

This is useful

Rebuild D2 ZF Selector Switch UHB100190 - Australian Land Rover Owners

This is the rebuild of the XYZ for the early D2's but the later model has far less complicated internals and is simpler to rebuild, evn I managed it 5 years or so ago, just be careful you mark the exact position before you slacken the bolts as the position is adjustable, LR make a special tool for resetting the position accurately. When replacing the bolts best to use stainless with SS self nyloc nuts. Also extend the A/C drain above and position it so it doesn't drip onto the XYZ switch which does cause some issues. I belive/recollect you need 8mm ID tube about 150mm long. Good luck, hope it works.

PS. make sure the internal tracks are clean and the contacts 'drag' on the fixed tracks OK then load the internals with petroleum jelly lubricant, I used Vaseline.

 

Exactly what I followed for the original switch.I just don't get how it can be the exact same fault based on all the different indicators others have shown in other threads.