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***Fixed*** M and S flash but gear selection not illuminated. ***Fixed***
I did a search and could not find the additional issue of the gear selected not showing on the dash.
It is in 3rd gear limp mode.
I have checked the battery (3 months old) voltage, just under 14 volts while running.
Cleaned all the contacts.
I have read that if you put the car in reverse when the wipers are on and the rear wiper comes on it is not the XYZ. I call it the YYZ because I am a RUSH fan
I have not tried that yet and I have not checked the fluid level yet either.
I was just curious if the gear choice not on would be indicative of something.
Last edited by DiscoBuckeye; Jul 26, 2016 at 02:54 PM.
Reason: Change title to show fixed
The only time this happened to me (M & S flashing, no gear illumination on dash) was when my CPS (Crank Position Sensor) failed on me and created a no start.
After cooling, the truck started and I drove it straight home with exact symptoms.
Your results may vary; I am only relating my experience.
XYZ switch. The BCU sends the signals to illuminate the selected gear on the instrument cluster and the red PRND321 indicators on the shifter surround based on what the XYZ switch "reports." No signal from the XYZ = no gear indicator.
XYZs are crazy-expensive if you buy a new one. Paul Grant, abran, Will Tillery, Marty Powell (drillbit, Overland Rovers) or Mike Sides (Tarheel Rover) can sell you a tested, used one for much less than new. Or you can rebuild yours. Or you can buy one from one of the guys named above and then rebuild yours to have as a spare.
XYZ switch. The BCU sends the signals to illuminate the selected gear on the instrument cluster and the red PRND321 indicators on the shifter surround based on what the XYZ switch "reports." No signal from the XYZ = no gear indicator.
XYZs are crazy-expensive if you buy a new one. Paul Grant, abran, Will Tillery, Marty Powell (drillbit, Overland Rovers) or Mike Sides (Tarheel Rover) can sell you a tested, used one for much less than new. Or you can rebuild yours. Or you can buy one from one of the guys named above and then rebuild yours to have as a spare.
I guess they are pretty expensive.
Looks like some folks have had success cleaning the contacts at the connector as well.
follow up question, anyway to clear the code without the expensive scanner?
UG or SG should easily clear codes and can be done driving down the road in limp mode. Did that for a month or two prior to getting a used replacement switch. Prevented having to restart every time after going into reverse.
There's is a small switch adjustment that may needs to be done when installing a switch. You may want to slightly loosen bolts and run switch through adj range. Not likely but slight possibility that it could clear contacts or yours somehow got out of adjustment. When installing replacement needs to be adj so that shifter indications good.
Recommend used replacement with natural color cover versus black cover. Internal switches better and seem to have a lower failure rate.
Can you clear them parked with the key in "run" as well?
Originally Posted by number9
UG or SG should easily clear codes and can be done driving down the road in limp mode. Did that for a month or two prior to getting a used replacement switch. Prevented having to restart every time after going into reverse.
There's is a small switch adjustment that may needs to be done when installing a switch. You may want to slightly loosen bolts and run switch through adj range. Not likely but slight possibility that it could clear contacts or yours somehow got out of adjustment. When installing replacement needs to be adj so that shifter indications good.
Recommend used replacement with natural color cover versus black cover. Internal switches better and seem to have a lower failure rate.
Can you clear them parked with the key in "run" as well?
Yes, worked every time using my ScanGaugeII so assume UG or any scanner capable of clearing would work. Sometimes code was pending and not set with light yet. Just don't backup after clearing and you're good to go until next use of reverse.
......
I just tried to clear the P0705 code and right after I started it, the M &S were blinking so did even have a chance not to put it in reverse. The scanner said it was clear.
Originally Posted by number9
Yes, worked every time using my ScanGaugeII so assume UG or any scanner capable of clearing would work. Sometimes code was pending and not set with light yet. Just don't backup after clearing and you're good to go until next use of reverse.
......