I haven’t gotten the MS indicators since I last cleared them, I’ve been driving the rover daily about 20miles and Today about 50, all I’ve noticed is the lights on the reverse and parking indicators have been acting weird. (CUT TO VIDEO)


I received my NT530 a few days ago and well I haven’t had a reason to hook it up.... WELL TODAY I DID.

Just to see how it worked I plugged the scanner in... I selected smart vin and it told me it couldn’t read my vin. I selected the OBD function and it stated it could not read the vehicle and to make sure the battery was charged and the vehicle was on...

heres where things get interesting I decided to select Manual mode and just select my vehicle and went down to transmission. My dash went limp and read zero for Mileage.

I went back to the home screen and everything went back to normal... BUT!!!! I noticed that my shifter is now more stiff, there is no play (picture a standard vehicle in neutral) which I had before, I could before play with the shifter and make it click while in the drive gear for instantaneous with hardly any pressure needed to shift to a different position.

now it pretty much requires me to press the shifter button and move into a new position. (Which feels more normal to me)

drove it to the the gym with no problems....

what do you guys think about that?

 

It’s been exactly 2 months since I’ve had the MS start blinking....

this morning while backing up out of my garage I noticed a kind of grinding sound coming from the right front wheel area and the MS started blinking.... I drove back into the garage in limp mode and hooked up my foxwell....

my foxwell sucks it doesn’t read my vehicle and I’m tempted to just call the company and ask for a refund... (anyone know how to use this thing?)

I cleared the codes and backed up again I heard the noise again while turning right out of my gate and hit the hwy..... arriving to to work I took a semi fast turn left and I heard the noise again from the right front wheel area again. (SOUNDS LIKE THE TIRE IS RUBBING .... THE EXACT SAME NOISE) I even looked to see if I had a piece of plastic sticking out.... the MS hasn’t come back on.

any ideas?

 

Have you tried jacking up the front, putting the t-case in neutral, and rotating the wheel by hand so you can hear where the noise is coming from?
If it's something simple like a bad hub, that's an easy replacement. But having a better idea of exactly where the noise is coming from will help guide you.

 

I’ll try that this weekend.... would a bad hub activate the MS lights?

 

I think they can generate several different light scenarios. Some people get the three amigos; I used to get just the CEL.

 

are you sure you know what you are doing with it?
Don’t select the option of “automatic selection. it won’t work.
Use “manual selection”....

 

my display does not look like yours, granted has the same options... mine is the NT530.

after selecting special function what is the next step to read the transmission code?

 

I checked the hub on the right side seems solid I’ll check the left side later... I did notice my negative battery terminal is somewhat loose, so I’m gonna change that out.

but could the brief loss of power to the transmission (during travel) cause this noise?

 

Loose battery connections can definitely cause the flashing M+S lights, that's for sure.

 

Instead of changing that battery terminal you can either shim it to keep it tighter, or like me use a pair of vise grips to squeeze it on the sides to deform it slightly out of round. That has worked well for me for many years now.

Before I did that I shimmed and a couple different ways over the course of a few years. One method is to drive a very, very small screw into the gap between the clamp and the post. Another method was to, believe it or not, hold a toothpick on the side of the battery post while I slid the terminal over the post. The thickness of the toothpick did the trick!

Mini on these forums her complained about the design of the clamp for years. One other thing I do is tap the clamp gently and carefully from the top to drive it down just a bit further on the post, which is tapered.

And these ideas may not work for you, or you may decide to change it anyway, but I said I said all three methods have worked for me over many, many years, saving me the time, trouble and expense of replacing the clamp over the cable.

YMMV