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M&S lights flashing and limp mode, is 13.4 volts at the battery when running enough?

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Old May 23, 2016 | 01:37 PM
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Default Update: Fixed Limp mode w/ Alternator Replacement: M&S lights flashing and limp mode,

2003 D2: Recently, I started getting the m&s indicator for limp mode. Shut down and restart clears it for a while but it always comes back. I checked my battery with an old toaster style tester and with my Power Probe 3. PP3 shows 12.5 volts after sitting all night and 13.4 while it is running. My toaster load test was still in the green OK range after 10 seconds.

I've read here that bad grounds, alternators and cables can sometimes cause limp mode to switch on.

PS I tested my other D2 (1999) and it shows 14.2 volts when running
 

Last edited by bcolins; Jun 12, 2016 at 11:16 AM.
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Old May 23, 2016 | 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by bcolins
I've read here that bad grounds, alternators and cables can sometimes cause limp mode to switch on.
Believe it or not, a loose gas cap not tightened on all the way will trigger the Limp Mode too.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JUKE179r
Believe it or not, a loose gas cap not tightened on all the way will trigger the Limp Mode too.
Have a new OE gas cap and it's tight.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 07:45 PM
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I've searched the rave for recommended alternator output,..... and didn't find it. Can anyone point me to it?
 

Last edited by bcolins; Feb 20, 2020 at 01:51 PM.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 07:48 PM
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Double check battery terminal connections. Can cause M and S.
 
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Old May 24, 2016 | 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cappedup
Double check battery terminal connections. Can cause M and S.
Yeah,...that was the first thing I did. Cleaned and tightened the ground at the battery and the right fender ground point
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 08:42 AM
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I just checked to see if I might have any error codes. I don't currently have a check engine light on but I have had it coming on and then off again the last few times I drove it.
 

Last edited by bcolins; Feb 20, 2020 at 01:52 PM.
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Old May 25, 2016 | 12:43 PM
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13.4 is just about boarder line before you start getting transmission codes for what it's worth

Originally Posted by bcolins
I just checked to see if I might have any error codes. I don't currently have a check engine light on but I have had it coming on and then off again the last few times I drove it.

I DO have an error code....it is PO705,..Transmission range. Is it pointing to my xyz?
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 04:01 PM
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A well known, longtime contributor to this forum always said that voltage must be between 13.6 and 14.8 volts to avoid throwing a transmission fault code and limp mode, although I could not find that specification in the RAVE today.


He said the voltage should be read at idle, at the alternator, under full load (i.e. all lights and accessories on).


My UltraGauge typically shows ~13.8 volts.
 
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Old May 25, 2016 | 04:50 PM
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I bought a new transmission years ago based on the same problems and the day after the expensive replacement (parts and labor then because I was an idiot and could not do it myself) I had the same problem. It was the f ing battery. I'll never get over that. Ever.
 
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