MAF dies every time it rains
#1
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I have a 2001 Disco II SE7 that I love although it has been a one way relationship. I feel let down at times and I give the car lots of attention.
I have been through 5 MAF's in the last year. I have a paper air filter no oiled filters in my Disco. every time it rains the dang MAF goes out.
Earlier this year it was raining and I hit a puddle on the road. As soon as I went through the puddle the check engine light came on. I hooked up the computer and it said low voltage MAF. I replaced it and BAM! good to go.
I had my windshield replaced and I had them do a water test as the last one they put in leaked and got into my ventilation system. I got the car back and the check engine light was one and it was running very poorly. Again it was the MAF. I replaced it and no more problems.
Just last week I drove it in the rain again and the check engine light is on. It is the MAF again.
What is going on? all my intake duct work is hooked up properly and I can not figure this one out. I thought someone out there should have had this experience at some time.
Aaron
I have been through 5 MAF's in the last year. I have a paper air filter no oiled filters in my Disco. every time it rains the dang MAF goes out.
Earlier this year it was raining and I hit a puddle on the road. As soon as I went through the puddle the check engine light came on. I hooked up the computer and it said low voltage MAF. I replaced it and BAM! good to go.
I had my windshield replaced and I had them do a water test as the last one they put in leaked and got into my ventilation system. I got the car back and the check engine light was one and it was running very poorly. Again it was the MAF. I replaced it and no more problems.
Just last week I drove it in the rain again and the check engine light is on. It is the MAF again.
What is going on? all my intake duct work is hooked up properly and I can not figure this one out. I thought someone out there should have had this experience at some time.
Aaron
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All my seals and or gaskets are still in place and in good shape.
I have some new info on the possible cause of the probem. I just replaced the battery. It died but I wonder if the battery could have caused some of this? The rover has been starting on the slow side for a while. Wondering if the battery gets low enough, may damage the MAF?
In the past I have cleared the codes at least twice just to make sure. I also look for an signs of a bad MAF. Things like hard or iratic shifting, poor idle, lack of power, and worse fuel economy.
This time I after I replaced the battery I cleared the codes and no probems.
I don't know if this is all intertwined but it seems to be in my view.
Anyone else have any insite?
Thanks,
Aaron
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There is your answer, Napa MAF's do not work on our trucks, I have seen a bunch of them go south right out of the box. And a $67 MAF on E-Bay is worth what it cost you to ship it.
If you want this problem to stop, call Tony at the LRRF and order a factory Maf that will last, 650-365-4145.
If you want this problem to stop, call Tony at the LRRF and order a factory Maf that will last, 650-365-4145.
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If you had read my post more carefully you would find that my Napa MAF is still going strong. I replaced the battery in the car as it finally died and I cleared the codes, no MAF codes now. I just drove it 240 miles with no problems.
I know that the stock MAFs are good units but do you think Land Rover makes them? They are contracted out and made by Lucas or Bosch or who ever.
I am not a believer that the stock units are the only ones that any good. I don't believe something just because someone said it. Bosch has a good record but all the components used to make them all come from China any more so what really is the difference. I am happy with my Napa unit and it comes with warranty so I feel better about that then $300 or more from Land Rover.
I hope for my sake I am right. I know you are buying a qaulity product from Land Rover. I just can't make myself spend the money. Maybe I can't be cheap and be a Land Rover owner. I hope I can, I can't afford to pay dealer costs.
Thanks for the post, I enjoy a good debate.
Aaron
I know that the stock MAFs are good units but do you think Land Rover makes them? They are contracted out and made by Lucas or Bosch or who ever.
I am not a believer that the stock units are the only ones that any good. I don't believe something just because someone said it. Bosch has a good record but all the components used to make them all come from China any more so what really is the difference. I am happy with my Napa unit and it comes with warranty so I feel better about that then $300 or more from Land Rover.
I hope for my sake I am right. I know you are buying a qaulity product from Land Rover. I just can't make myself spend the money. Maybe I can't be cheap and be a Land Rover owner. I hope I can, I can't afford to pay dealer costs.
Thanks for the post, I enjoy a good debate.
Aaron
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Hopefully this MAF does hold up for a while. I have a leaky air spring when there is enough weight on the rear and a driveline vibration to fix. O and also the three amigo lights are on for a bad wheel speed sensor.
Seems like all this has happened all at once. I need to catch up with repairs.
I bought new u-joints and the cv gimbal kit. I think I will have a driveline shop do the work though. I have replaced lots of u-jounts but I want the vibration to be gone and I am willing to pay for that service.
The air springs are really easy to replace. Mine leaks when it is weighted down and the bad portion of the air spring curves under and flexes where the hole or bad spot is. I have checked all my supply lines for leaks and I did find the leak in the air spring.
I love the Rover but I couldn't take it to the shop all the time. I fix what I know I can do myself and find the money to do the rest. It does pay to do some research for proper parts though. The ignition system needs certain spark plugs and wires.
My old 1986 Saab 900 has been a great car, I wish Rover was the same. I can't kill the Saab. I have been trying to kill it. I would like to upgrade but as long as it has oil and coolant it just keeps on running and running. Rovers engines and trannys go for ever. So I think I will keep it till it is well dead and put some money in the bank. I can go anywere it that rig. And it is fun to drive. I never worry about bad weather in the winter with that thing.
Seems like all this has happened all at once. I need to catch up with repairs.
I bought new u-joints and the cv gimbal kit. I think I will have a driveline shop do the work though. I have replaced lots of u-jounts but I want the vibration to be gone and I am willing to pay for that service.
The air springs are really easy to replace. Mine leaks when it is weighted down and the bad portion of the air spring curves under and flexes where the hole or bad spot is. I have checked all my supply lines for leaks and I did find the leak in the air spring.
I love the Rover but I couldn't take it to the shop all the time. I fix what I know I can do myself and find the money to do the rest. It does pay to do some research for proper parts though. The ignition system needs certain spark plugs and wires.
My old 1986 Saab 900 has been a great car, I wish Rover was the same. I can't kill the Saab. I have been trying to kill it. I would like to upgrade but as long as it has oil and coolant it just keeps on running and running. Rovers engines and trannys go for ever. So I think I will keep it till it is well dead and put some money in the bank. I can go anywere it that rig. And it is fun to drive. I never worry about bad weather in the winter with that thing.
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