MAF Sensor Replacement Advice....
#1
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After hearing some input from this site Ive decided to do this on my own. I had a mechanic quote me for 100$ which I guess is outrageous?
Could someone send me some basic steps to follow. I am so far from mechanically inclined to say the least. I bought the part from BP Utah...
Thanks
Could someone send me some basic steps to follow. I am so far from mechanically inclined to say the least. I bought the part from BP Utah...
Thanks
#5
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K i gave it a whirl and couldn't get the MAF off....
I unclipped the 2 clips on the side....i unplugged the "plug"....i loosened the silver ring....
i got the side further from the engine to come out (near air filter i think...)
but i was pulling and twisting the other end and cant get it to come loose...
i put it back together and will wait for a response... please!!!
goodness i dont feel handy...
I unclipped the 2 clips on the side....i unplugged the "plug"....i loosened the silver ring....
i got the side further from the engine to come out (near air filter i think...)
but i was pulling and twisting the other end and cant get it to come loose...
i put it back together and will wait for a response... please!!!
goodness i dont feel handy...
#6
#7
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it should slide out fairly easy.
try loosening the hose clamp alittle more so it can slide easily, then grab the MAF in one hand and the air filter tube going to the engine with the other, and slowly slide it out...twisting might help but it should come out pretty easily.
helpfull hint, when you get it off, clean every speck of dirt, water or oil that is inside the tubes of the airbox and the one going to the motor, make sure your hands are nice and clean... anything that gets past the airfilter will go directly into the engine. oil/water specs not to bad but any sand, gritt etc. a big nono. just take a very slightly damp towel and get all the gritt out.
do NOT touch the inside of the new MAF, especially the metal piece on the inside that sticks out into the airsteam, they are very sensitive, and skin oil will be enough to coat it up good and make it ineffective in determining the right airflow, and therefor the motor will not run as efficiently as it should, and you might as well put the old one back in
oo... and make sure you dont put it in backwards
i dont have one infront of me to look at, but normally they have an arrow either saying "front" or "airflow" in which case you want the arrow lined up with the front of the car, or with the flow back towards the engine. i believe the disco maf's have a honeycomb type plastic shield on one side of the maf, thats the side that should conenct to the airbox, or front of the car, as to help smooth the airflow like fins to better measure the correct flow.
goodluck! its SUPER simple. most garages will charge a flat hour ($85-105) to do anything UNDER an hour because they love to rip people off. its incredibly simple, and with a screw driver, and the new part in front of you, should take less then 30 seconds, literally if youve done it before. the longest part is unscrewing and tightening the hose clamps down!!
if i actually HAD my discovery that i bought 2 weeks ago, i could picture step by step. im big DIY, and now after experiencing the labor/part rates that LR dealerships want to charge... im on a mission to have them lose as much buisness as possible for simple stuff like this!
try loosening the hose clamp alittle more so it can slide easily, then grab the MAF in one hand and the air filter tube going to the engine with the other, and slowly slide it out...twisting might help but it should come out pretty easily.
helpfull hint, when you get it off, clean every speck of dirt, water or oil that is inside the tubes of the airbox and the one going to the motor, make sure your hands are nice and clean... anything that gets past the airfilter will go directly into the engine. oil/water specs not to bad but any sand, gritt etc. a big nono. just take a very slightly damp towel and get all the gritt out.
do NOT touch the inside of the new MAF, especially the metal piece on the inside that sticks out into the airsteam, they are very sensitive, and skin oil will be enough to coat it up good and make it ineffective in determining the right airflow, and therefor the motor will not run as efficiently as it should, and you might as well put the old one back in
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goodluck! its SUPER simple. most garages will charge a flat hour ($85-105) to do anything UNDER an hour because they love to rip people off. its incredibly simple, and with a screw driver, and the new part in front of you, should take less then 30 seconds, literally if youve done it before. the longest part is unscrewing and tightening the hose clamps down!!
if i actually HAD my discovery that i bought 2 weeks ago, i could picture step by step. im big DIY, and now after experiencing the labor/part rates that LR dealerships want to charge... im on a mission to have them lose as much buisness as possible for simple stuff like this!
Last edited by grandkodiak; 03-15-2011 at 02:45 PM.
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