So I picked up my 00 Disco from the dealer since (I'm still awaiting (over a week now) for them to fix the front shaft and window motor, and I only have a motorcycle in the meantime) its been heavy rain today and tomorrow forcasted.

Car didn't start, but it was sitting in the lot and the battery was old. So it jumped fine, and drove it home and put in a new battery (same battery as my last car) and fixed that problem. So I go to drive it around and notice that once it warmed up, it barely wants to idle, sounds like its fumbling on its face. It drops down to 700rpm then dips into the 600's and feels like its going to stall. I plug in an OBD2 reader to see if its picking up knock or missfire and BAM, it says I have a trouble code P1884, and pending P0139, P0140 and P0160. Thats damn funny, cause theres no check engine light on. I turn the car off, flip the key back in and the Check Engine Light NEVER lights up, and there is an electrical wine behind the dash for a momment, and I notice the dash cover is lose. No wonder there was no inspection sticker in the window, cause its going to fail!

This ****er just pull a fast one, how would one disable the check engine light, but not the rest of the dash?

This ends tomorrow, he's fixing it in full by the weekend or buying it back, with or without a lawyer present.

DO NOT GO TO GROVE AUTO IN LONG BRANCH NJ FAIR FLIPPIN WARNING!!!! Been jerking me around since I paid in full cash over a week and half ago. Now the ****ing thing barely runs when its warm and no lights on to warn you. Wow.

 

Sorry to hear about dealing with someone dishonest, it sucks.

To answer your question, there are 2 screws just above the steering wheel, and a couple of clips in the back (don't remember exactly), then once you pull the cover up you can reach around and simply pull the bulb out.
I'm glad I got mine scanned before purchase, because my bulb was pulled too.

 

yea the whole housing is loose, i noticed it when cleaning the interior with the wipes but didnt give it a second measure as i hadnt driven the thing long enough to let it change loop.

any idea on the codes? i think the main one is because the front shaft is off no? but the other ones are o2 related, but whats causing the horrible idle? i was going to clean the iac and maf before i foudn the codes and light problem but i have NO idea how to get the hose clamps off the iac, some help there would be great too.

 

Wow man that is some bs.

 

edit.

got the instrument cover piece up and off, (two clips waaaaaay back there eh?) but the part where the MIL lights are is sealed...? how do you get to the bulbs, do you have to remove the entire faceplate too?


i cleared and reset the codes, the main one comes back but the pendings change, this time it was 135 b1s1 warmup time to long and 155 b2s1 warmup time to long, but the problem was the same.

starts fine, idles at about 1000 smooth then slowly drops as it warms up to 800 range, then warms up more and drops to 680-720rpm and feels shaky like its about to stall... you can feel it in the entire car, gets more pronounced as time goes on but never stalls out. revs fine, and in the higher rpm its smooth as glass. i didnt get any knock, retard or missfires from the obd2, and the o2 voltages are .435-.450ish changing gradually and slowly like the should except b1s2 is always reporting .445. but thats post cat so shouldnt effect running at all...especially to cause a low idle. but i dont think its the iac because it starts and runs fine up until the o2s warm up, and no other codes to indicate it.

any help here would be great, if i can narrow it down for this ******* dealer maybe hell be more likely to be willing to fix instead.

 

whooooooooa just got a whole lost worse.

booted up my autoenginuity software on my old laptop which is far more capable then the ultraguage and got this reported:

 

Hmmm... total BS is right. You wonder if the dealer did it or the previous owner while trading it into a dealership. Honestly, I might guess it was the previous owner but who knows.
As far as the truck, I would totally check out the MAF sensor. Also, I know it didn't throw a code for it according to the list, but what about the Idle Air Control Valve? I think you could just clean that yourself before getting a new part.

 

i would like to but i dont know how to get the hose clamp off if it, nor how to get it back on if i manage to get it off, then id be really stuck!

i jsut confirmed, i get no MAF data from either scanner :-/

 

I'm not an expert on these... but maybe that is your 1st code? Others will be better able to tell you that for sure.

 

There is a special tool for those clamps. They are not reusable. I pop them off with a small screwdriver. If you look close you will see one end is a little clip. Just stick a tiny screwdriver in there between the bands and pry it apart. As soon as the clip pops open it will spring apart.