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MAJOR problems and GROVE AUTO BS ALERT

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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:47 AM
  #11  
hilltoppersx's Avatar
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From: Westchester, NY
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does New Jersey have a lemon law? i know we have one in NY, dealer can't sell you a car unless it can pass inspection.

if not then you have some work ahead of you if you want to keep this thing.

Your CEL is an LED soldered onto the board. It is not a bulb like the backing lights and blinker lights. Your 3 amigos might be on because of the 1590. More LED's taht could be busted. My truck was like that when i bought it. the dealer didn't know how to fix any problem so instead he broke the LED's so the buyer wouldn't know anything was wrong with it.

first - what air filter is in the box? is it a paper or K&N style. something kill the MAF and it could be the air filter.

Next - your MAF is dead. before buying a new one i would take it off and try cleaning it just to see if you can get those codes cleared. MAF or electrical cleaner will probably kill it for good so instead wipe out the barrel of the sensor with a paper towel. The part number for the MAF you need is MHK100800G. You can use a certain VW MAF and splice the wiring but it's 6:30 in the am and i don't feel like looking up the part #. sure you could find it if you used google. (codes 0102 0340 1884)

Third - Check the ground wire on your SAI pump. (code 0414)

Fourth - see if you can rent an ABS amigo to see if any ABS codes are coming up. If not then your rough road code is either a short in a wire, or someother ABS related problem. Are the brakes squeaking or old? (code 1590)

finally - clear the codes and see what comes back. then come back to us with whatever codes you have left so we can finish solving your issues.

good luck.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 05:47 AM
  #12  
DaveBFoto's Avatar
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From: Las Vegas, NV
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Might want to edit your VIN out of the image. Never good to leave personal information lying around on the internet.


Also, you've been screwed, wow.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 07:25 AM
  #13  
Bundu's Avatar
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Take a long nose pliers and slide the end of the clamp sideways, it will pop off pretty easy.
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #14  
agthird's Avatar
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I use channel locks it takes a little practice but very doable...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 04:20 PM
  #15  
grandkodiak's Avatar
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well i dropped it off this morning back to him he said he'd "take care of it"... so god knows with that means. He still hasent done either two repairs (ujoints and pass side front window) so god knows how long it will take him to complete this one. I'm guessing ill give him the weekend and call it a day and ask for my money back. sad cause i did a complete detail on it and ive been waiting in excitement for it all this time. i called grove auto master tech guy and he says he hasnt even talked to the car dealer all day, so thats another 12 hours of abosultly wasted time.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #16  
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In good faith to Chris, RoverMasterTech of Grove Auto Repair, I want to elaborate on some details of my previous post.

After speaking with Chris in person, the dealer he works behind (Grove Auto) and several other mechanics in the area, I believe I owe it to him to explain what wasn't made apparent to me.

Although they share the name Grove for convinience I assume, Chris is NOT employed by, nor directly affiliated with the people of the used car dealership in Long Branch NJ, Grove Auto, where I purchased my 00 Disco now 3 weeks ago with the disabled check engine light and yaddayadda and yet to have been able to take delivery. Chris rents the garage space at the location, and being a Land Rover Master Tech, the dealership used him pretty much as a selling ploy saying why not buy from him, after all he has a LR tech right on spot! Negotiated in the original selling deal was that the dealer was going to replace the front propeller shaft (it showed signs of damage about to lead to soon to be complete failure) and a window regulator since the window was off track abit. However, the deal was with the dealer of Grove, not with Chris and his company. So, the dealer could use whomever he wants, and apparently, whenever he wants within reason... which is why it has sat for 3 weeks only to finally now being looked at after asking for my money back and checking around on his buisness rep and character (the dealer).

I went in Monday to see where the hell my Disco was, and low and behold I found Chris dirst hands deap in my engine bay working away. I'm assuming at the benefit to the situation, so a BIG thank you to Chris for playing the middle man here. He even spoke with me on the phone reguarding the dealer confirming what I heard from many other references about the dealers quality. My mistake for not checking first.

Anywho, I thought an explination on Chris's behalf was obligated, see here as he might have a good customer base for future work, and I don't want to scare off the wrong people by grouping him in falsly with this shady *** dealer.

Thats about it, anyone wanting more info by all means email me or see my other post titled Dealer BS warning.

Thanks all, and sorry Chris! Hope this all turns out well for all of us.

edit: today will be 3 weeks since I paid for the thing, let see how things have come since yesterday.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 02:07 PM
  #17  
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The car was picked up at the auction. I don't know anything about it's history or service record. I don't know what he told/promised you. I also can't fulfill promises made by other people that I don't know about.

I rent the garage and lot from him, and do some repairs on cars he picks up, thats the extent of our relationship.

I checked out your disco and found the STEEL *pfff* wire clamp behind the drivers side head
cut through the power wire for the oxy sensor heaters/5v reference for the MAF/Cam sensor/TPS and blew the fuse. Instead of just replacing the fuse (and having the wire touch ground again, blowing the new fuse 100 miles down the road.) I R/I'd the SAI pipe and a bunch of other stuff so I could remove the clamp from the harness. As it stands now, the only code coming back is the MAF low output code... The 1.4v out of the MAF sensor seems fine for idle, but the scanner reads .4 lbs a min when it should be .7/.8--- So I'm losing some of the voltage between the MAF and the ECU somewhere... I'm going to try to get the engine stuff done tomorrow and also pull the cluster out to see how they disabled the check engine light.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 03:07 PM
  #18  
hilltoppersx's Avatar
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From: Westchester, NY
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Originally Posted by RoverMasterTech
The car was picked up at the auction. I don't know anything about it's history or service record. I don't know what he told/promised you. I also can't fulfill promises made by other people that I don't know about.

I rent the garage and lot from him, and do some repairs on cars he picks up, thats the extent of our relationship.

I checked out your disco and found the STEEL *pfff* wire clamp behind the drivers side head
cut through the power wire for the oxy sensor heaters/5v reference for the MAF/Cam sensor/TPS and blew the fuse. Instead of just replacing the fuse (and having the wire touch ground again, blowing the new fuse 100 miles down the road.) I R/I'd the SAI pipe and a bunch of other stuff so I could remove the clamp from the harness. As it stands now, the only code coming back is the MAF low output code... The 1.4v out of the MAF sensor seems fine for idle, but the scanner reads .4 lbs a min when it should be .7/.8--- So I'm losing some of the voltage between the MAF and the ECU somewhere... I'm going to try to get the engine stuff done tomorrow and also pull the cluster out to see how they disabled the check engine light.
^ knows his ish.

as for disabling the CEL the idiot who had mine took apart the cluster and broke the LED.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 05:16 PM
  #19  
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yea he does... and is friendly, professional and honest in person... unlike the dealer dude.
 
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