dont loss sleep the rods are marked for orientation. iirc

 

Thank you!!!!!!!! My engine guy has owned his own shop for fifty years so hopefully he knows what to do. Well, he knows a lot more than I do, clearly. Thanks, Dro!

Hijack over. Resume thread. Apologies to all.

 

To the OP of this thread.
The only thing that can cause the intake pan gasket to blow uo or balloon, is too much crankcase pressure. Your crankcase ventilation uses the positive vacuum from the plenum to the passenger side valve cover and pulls thru the oil separator. The Drivers side has a tube going to the intake before the throttle valve, which is a lower vacuum(especially when throttle is closed).

So either, you have massive blow by from one or more pistons, or your oil separator is clogged, or hoses are not hooked up correctly. Although very unlikely, the only other culprit could be head gasket leak or blown out on intake side right into the valley.

 

It is but ... Here is a copy and past from above:

I did install a 2ND oil separator in the rocker cover: drivers or LH side. ops..... My 97 had two, maybe i should not have done that ? When I removed it, it was submerged in oil..... but the other side was check and I could blow in it fine.

I just seemed like there was alot of oil in that line before the overhaul, that's why I added one. I removed it, but do not want to just hope that was the issue and have the Manifold gasket to blow out again. Should I just leave the oil cap loss ??? LOL Click the image to open in full size.

 

Shot in the dark here, are all the return holes in your head clear? Reason I ask, if the pressure in crankcase cannot reach the valve covers, there is no way to remove the pressure, via the Crankcase ventilation route. Also could explain why so much oil is remaining in the valve cover and being pulled into the PVC lines.

Edit: This is probably not applicable, because of all the push rod holes would allow pressure to get to valve covers.

 

Just read it, thx. It dose sound like a paint can popping from temperate change. Like the ones you here in your garage as the day warms. I thought it sound as if it were coming from my tail pie. Not not engine. Now it still might be but couldn't test unless i were to hang off the back while driving. LOL

I asked the forum about it when I did the overhaul but no suggestions. However It pops every 30 -40secs. The manifold gasket is not moving that much. I may have herd a noise while driving around from the front that was different now that I recall it.

The popping from the tail pipe I was told might be because the tappets need adjusting on the rocker arm. I know there's a guide for that. The thought was that every thing was cleaned and re surfaced; such as the valves and seats, there might be some adjusting to do. Also, I had ordered new injectors to replace the the current ones because 4-5 of them have one jet spaying incorrectly causing it to form a drip. I knew that when I put it back together that I wanted to replace them soon not sure of the outcome if any so far.

I made a jig to flush them but didn't have it set up to back feed them, now the jig is complete as I will use it just to test the new ones real fast before they get installed.

 

Thanks for the input, Good guess. Yes your right, there is a lot of room around the push rods. I will say that the heads where submerged in purple power over night and then soda blasted then rinsed well with every hole cleaned and blown out with fresh water. I made sure LOL

They came out super clean, I made videos and pictures of this whole process but have not posted them because the project is still in the drive way.

 

Post your results, I am curious, if nothing else for future reference.
Good Luck

 

Sure will, I say the pic of the crank ventilation illustration. However this multi quote didn't work. did you see my replay above about how I installed a 2nd oil separator on the drivers side ? I removed it now but not befor the valley pan ....

Thanks to you all, I will pull the the oil pan off and check my work on the pistons just in-case. Pin in the , but I will check. I had a guy there with me installing them and checking the correct position. He has his ASE cert; works with me a raytheon. So you would think we could do this LOL

Keep you updated soon as I pull the pan.

 

Too many changes at once.
Never change the OEM configuration.
Keep the engine spec.

Then if / when the rebuilt engine starts and runs for a few weeks OK,
then make a change to something.

If the change fails - back out the change.


View the engine as one component - keep it OEM until proven.

Then the rest of the engine bay are different components.

In testing circles the engine is a "black box".
The rest of the components to the engine are really "interfaces" of
air, gas, electricity, and yes vacuum (negative pressure) and I suppose positive pressure too.

If I was rebuilding an engine - I would keep it spec.

I rebuilt an MG once. I put in a new crank.

And just for grins, I put in a taller camshaft.
BIG mistake.

Car idled like crap.

I got what I deserved.


I would keep the engine spec.