master cylindar
#1
master cylindar
i am probaly going to order a new MC for my 95 and am going to install it myself. I have a few questions
1. is it hard to do
2 i cant find dot 4 is it okay to use dot 3
3 whats the best way to bleed the system after i install
4 how long will it take
5 are there any special tools needed
6 should i apy a mechanic (non LR of course)
keep in mind im very poor and really am risking it getting this fixed. I have been driving with a bad MC for about a year and a half now so i am used to holding the e brake just in case. If anyone has any words of advice or exprience doing this let me know anything i might need to know NUX i hope you are out there to respond to this i know you know what your talking about.
1. is it hard to do
2 i cant find dot 4 is it okay to use dot 3
3 whats the best way to bleed the system after i install
4 how long will it take
5 are there any special tools needed
6 should i apy a mechanic (non LR of course)
keep in mind im very poor and really am risking it getting this fixed. I have been driving with a bad MC for about a year and a half now so i am used to holding the e brake just in case. If anyone has any words of advice or exprience doing this let me know anything i might need to know NUX i hope you are out there to respond to this i know you know what your talking about.
#2
RE: master cylindar
Is it hard to do? I don't think so. I just finished replacing the seals on the master cylinder of my 92 Discovery, a lot cheaper than a complete MC replacement.
Removing the MC is simple, you need to remove the brake lines but first release the bleed screws at each calliper and pump the brakes, this will empty the MC and reservoir and minimise brake fluid spillage in the engine compartment on the paintwork. Seal the brake lines with tape to keep muck out.
Two nuts hold the MC, use release oil (WD40) if they are corroded.
If overhauling the MC yourself it must be done in a clean area, the replacement seal kit is supplied with full instructions, work slowly and methodically, there’s nothing difficult except keeping the dirt at bay. The MC should be cleaned on the outside before you attempt to change seals.
You can probably use DOT3 but it will have a shorter life as it absorbs moisture more readily, I would look for DOT4, I don’t like the idea of skimping on this.
Bleeding is Left-rear, Front-right, Right-rear, Left-front (and I am pretty sure it does not matter whether it’s a left or right-hand drive vehicle – mine’s RHD), if you have bled brakes before it will not be a problem, if not, read up about it and get an assistant to help.
How long – half a day?
Special tools – none
Pay a mechanic? This is not a difficult job, but brakes keep you out of harm’s way so if you are unsure about tackling it, pay the mechanic. You might get the job done by a mechanic with a replacement seal kit for less than a replacement master cylinder.
Removing the MC is simple, you need to remove the brake lines but first release the bleed screws at each calliper and pump the brakes, this will empty the MC and reservoir and minimise brake fluid spillage in the engine compartment on the paintwork. Seal the brake lines with tape to keep muck out.
Two nuts hold the MC, use release oil (WD40) if they are corroded.
If overhauling the MC yourself it must be done in a clean area, the replacement seal kit is supplied with full instructions, work slowly and methodically, there’s nothing difficult except keeping the dirt at bay. The MC should be cleaned on the outside before you attempt to change seals.
You can probably use DOT3 but it will have a shorter life as it absorbs moisture more readily, I would look for DOT4, I don’t like the idea of skimping on this.
Bleeding is Left-rear, Front-right, Right-rear, Left-front (and I am pretty sure it does not matter whether it’s a left or right-hand drive vehicle – mine’s RHD), if you have bled brakes before it will not be a problem, if not, read up about it and get an assistant to help.
How long – half a day?
Special tools – none
Pay a mechanic? This is not a difficult job, but brakes keep you out of harm’s way so if you are unsure about tackling it, pay the mechanic. You might get the job done by a mechanic with a replacement seal kit for less than a replacement master cylinder.
#3
RE: master cylindar
I agree with everything that Coul said. Although if your rebuilding it yourself with new seals and all, you might want to hone the bore just for a few seconds to remove any polished spots. MadBilly, changing the MC isn't any more difficult than in a Chevy or a Ford. You can save some time if you go with a rebuilt one, or save some cash like Coul did by rebuilding it yourself, but cleanliness is a must when dealing with hydraulics and seals.
If possible, use line wrenches to remove the break lines. especially if they are corroded. Take your time, bleed everything correctly when your done. Bleeder screws are a nightmare when corroded, pre spray them in penetrating fluid the day before hand. if your still uncertain about doing your own MC replacement, have a shop do it for peace of mind and safety.
Dot 3 is compatible and ok to use in most cases, but unless your on your breaks all day long, use the recommended Dot 4 for higher temperature.
If possible, use line wrenches to remove the break lines. especially if they are corroded. Take your time, bleed everything correctly when your done. Bleeder screws are a nightmare when corroded, pre spray them in penetrating fluid the day before hand. if your still uncertain about doing your own MC replacement, have a shop do it for peace of mind and safety.
Dot 3 is compatible and ok to use in most cases, but unless your on your breaks all day long, use the recommended Dot 4 for higher temperature.
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