What causes a misfire? Why only 1 cylinder and not all same time? Where is #1 located? How to fix? Thank you.

 

#1 is first cylinder on drivers side, closest to the front of the vehicle.
Misfires could be coil, plug, wire. Not exactly sure how a misfire is recognized by the eco. will have to do some digging.

 

 

A misfire on only one cylinder is most likely a problem with the spark plug or the spark plug wire. What do you know about your spark plugs? How old are they? Exactly what manufacturer and part number are they? And what about the spark plug wires? How old are they, and who is the manufacturer?

 

The last time I had the spark plugs replaced was 6 mos ago. I bought a tuneup kit but the mechanic bailed out replacing the wires. So I still have the bosch wire (blue color). Soon, I'll try to take time replacing them all. I got almost all the parts needed including the O2 sensors. (still in transit) But if I may ask, how difficult will it be to replace the manifold gaskets? I'm a bit hands on with stuff. Where can I find documentation on removal/install those parts. I guess I have a major leak in the manifold area, seems like every time I go uphill, I can hear a weird air related noise in the engine like there is a hole on the muffler but in the engine compartment. Its a bit hard to explain, buts its there when I press the throttle half way. Thanks

 

D2 Workshop Manual in Rave download provides "documentation" and if hints or videos wanted search away here and on web.
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It's not unusual to have a cracked exhaust manifold. They're cast iron, and if they don't mate up to the block very well, the stress will crack them after so many heat cycles. Another possible source of cracks is when the exhaust hanger rubbers fail and torque is applied to the manifold by the exhaust pipes banging up and down. You may not be able to see the crack until you remove the manifold. I don't want to encourage you to do work to remove it if it's not cracked, but if you're going to replace the manifold gaskets, do check it out. Replacing manifold-to-block gaskets, and manifold to y-pipe gaskets is as easy as removing the nuts/bolts, dropping the old gaskets out, and placing new ones in the sandwich. I suggest using plenty of antiseize on the bolts going into the Aluminum block, taking extra care not to cross-thread them, using a torque wrench to tighten them to specification, and wearing safety goggles (not just safety glasses) for the under vehicle work. Be prepared for broken bolts/studs, and the aforementioned cracked manifold.

 

About 8 months ago I replaced my wires with 8mm Kingsbornes. While installing them, I put one in the wrong coil slot. Realizing what I did, I pulled it out and fixed it. 8 months later, among other things, I started having a #8 misfire. Chased everything down, fuel treatments, cleaned this and that, replaced plugs, etc.

Finally I bought a $7 tester from Harbor Freight. Plug one end onto the spark plug and the other into the plug wire. If you get a good test light, spark is good and the problem is in cylinder or engine.

http://www.harborfreight.com/90-inli...ker-69023.html

I had a bad light. So when I pulled the wires, the #8 wire going into the coil was completely fried and gone. Spark had to arc and jump to make it to the wire. On the other plugs, the light was strong and steady. The test light can help decide which direction to go.

$40 for two new coils (to be safe) and $47 for new wires (to be safe) and all was good in the world again. It seems maybe when I had to pull the wire the first time, I broke it and never knew it. Wires are meant to go into the coils one time and once only because they really snap lock in there.