NO WHERE TO GO!
So the block was decked a total of only .009" and this was enough to make the tops of the liners flush to the surface and even remove .001" to .002" from them.
I'm still going to pin them so they can't drop. I know there are ledges but I don't want any doubts.
The heads were skimmed .007" for a total of .016" between the head and the block. Not nearly as much as I anticipated and not enough to be overly concerned about when it comes to the pushrod and lifter lash.
The head's were pressure checked (block was too) and the valve guides were within specs so only the seats and valves were touched up. New valve stem seals were installed.
The crank was turned down .010" and polished on all journals and new undersized bearings will be used.
New cam bearings were installed and the rear oil galley plugs were pulled and flushed.
The blocks main bearing bores were align bored and this was after the valley was opened up .0025" on each side. The main cap that holds the thrust bearing was extremely difficult to remove during disassembly as somehow the block had pulled together in the center. So it was opened up .005" so that now all main caps fit just perfectly.
The Crower 50229 cam's snout was turned down, shouldered, drilled and tapped, and the keyway aligned in the factory position.
Assembly starts tomorrow.
*Need the cam shaft plug at the back of the motor, any sources?
Also, freeze plugs.

 

Found this:
Does this apply??
http://www.landroverclubvi.com/uploa...lley_plugs.pdf

 

im glad to see you fully machined the block while it was out, good luck with it

 

Thanks. It cost more than 2x what I budgeted for.
Pinning the liners today. I drilled and tapped them to accept the 6x1.00mm cap bolts that I'll be sealing with red Loctite.
I also am replacing the freeze plugs (also called welch or expansion plugs). They're 1.5" or 38mm for anyone wondering. I'll be sealing them and the cam plug with Loctite 648.
Cleaning then assembly begins.

 

good luck. I'd love to see pics of the process if you have a chance to post them.

 

Cylinders are pinned and freeze plugs replaced.
Started with a 3/16" drill bit as I didn't have a 5mm drill bit. the 3/16" gave me greater thread engagement as it began as a smaller hole.
Tapped out to 6x1.00mm and then I went with a 6x1.00mm socket head bolt.
Burrs were removed from liner area and the bolts were shortened to prohibit protrusion into cylinder bore.
Everything was cleaned and Loctite 648 was used instead of "red" thread locker.
Once the bolts were installed, the inner bores where the bolt came through the liner was polished with emery cloth.

The freeze plugs were dimpled in the middle the punched in (they wouldn't swivel) and retrieved with a pair vice grips.
The bores were cleaned up with some sand paper, wiped down and a thin layer of Loctite 648 was smeared on them.
The plugs (sized 38mm or 1.5") edges were also smeared in 648 the installed just below the lip of the bore using a socket that just fit into the plug. A few taps with a hammer and they were positioned nicely.

I also installed the cam plug in the same fashion.

 

More pics
The last one is of the machined deck showing the sleeves are now flush with the deck.

I still have to berry bush (ball hone) the cylinders because I'm using new rings. But the cylinders were in really nice shape to begin with.
While you're there.... you might as well....

 

Looks very clean, you can tell a lot of work has gone into this. That motor will be running for a long time.

 

Have you considered safety wire for the pin bolts? just an extra precaution to keep them from backing out.

 

Looks nice; it is a pleasure to see work of someone who clearly knows what he is doing, on work of this nature. Are you planning to use somewhat thicker head gaskets to take up some of that space lost from the machining?