I second that Spike and Mike. I know that mine are 14 years old and looking a bit worn. Nothing I have to get to right now but I know that I will probably do this in the next year and I would love to know that the thread is in the how to sticky. Thanks for the great write up!

 

Im looking into this also on mine... at 35 and around 65 ( my now most used steady speeds, also on acceleration I feel a lumpiness rumblyness.. most of the time but sometimes not so much... and the loosness at those steady speeds... along with a mild stumbly of motor ( going to replace the plugs and wires with better ones...the dealership I bought it from said it needed coils so they supposedly replaced coils and plugs and wires... the grey wires and copper champion plugs... on my ultragauge I do not get any codes except the cat 430 but I don think that would effect idle would it?

 

Hi everyone,
I'm new here in the Forum and I was reading Vandev's instructions "How to replace the motor mounts" on the Discovery series II. Man... I got say this, what such great job you did not only fixing your truck, but also sharing the instruction with everyone in the Forum with detailed photos and everything. I had the same issue with my 2003 HSE Discovery and I appreciate all your tips. Very helpful!!! I'll been sharing some of my tricks with everyone soon. Good regards, Wagner.

 

Just a few quick notes. The v12 motor mounts from the old jags will fit the d1s and some range rover classics. I don't have the part number cuz I'm on my mobile. Also QT makes heavy duty mounts that will last longer. Justin at lucky 8 has them.

 

Actually 39 minutes from the time I put up the garage door to closing the garage door and going for a test drive Including cutting up the 5 pieces of 2x4.

Don't bother to jack up the truck unless you just cant get underneath. Im 5'10" and 210 pounds,......I never lift the truck to work under it.

You wont need a pry bar,....and although the article reference 1/2" wrenches,....through trial and error, I determined that they are actually 18mm. You will need a deep 18mm socket for the bottom, and an 18mm ratcheting box end wrench for the top. Plus what ever tools you need to remove your air flow meter and the air intake hose.

I recommend a big sheet of cardboard to lay on, so you can quickly and easily slide under and back out from under the truck.

If you have a leaking power steering box like I do,.....you might want to head to the local DIY car wash and clean the area up well before bdeginning work.

I taped my 5 pieces of 2x4 together,....one loop of duct tape,.....just what was close at hand. I felt that if I left all the pieces loose, they would be falling off the jack.

Should take you 5 or so minutes to get the top nut off the mount with the ratcheting box end wrench.

The bottom nut, does require a deep socket, I used a standard socket wrrench,....breaker bar not needed,......you'll probably want about a 4" extension,...or a universal joint,....or wobble extension......there are a few obstacles to work around while ratcheting,.....should take less than a minute.

Remove the old broken mount and slip your new one into the properspot...........I did take the OPs advice and ran the nut up and down a few times, and having done that, I found I could tighten the top nut about 3/4 of the way with my thumb and forefinger,.....I then slowly lowered the engine and because the top was already secure,.....no prybar was needed.

Finish tighening the two fasteners, reinstall the air mass meter and intake hose and you are done.

Having now done this,.......I think it could be done in 15-20 minutes.

Brian in Cedar Park, TX

 

Wow, you really brought this one back from the dead.

 

I can't comment on the V8 but I have changed all of my engine and autobox mounts on my TD5 and the difference is amazing. All the resonances and vibes disappeared and the engine noise in the cabin is far quieter, in fact, the whole truck seems smoother when cruising particularly at 70-80mph on a motorway. IMO it's a worthwhile job if it's still running on the original mounts but having first read about aftermarket mounts failing it pays to invest in LR OEM mounts only NOT Britpart.

 

Just did this a couple hours ago. Took just a little over an hour for me. Woulda been much much quicker with an 18mm ratcheting wrench. The top nut takes forever if you're just using a regular 18mm wrench. Prolly spent 10-12min getting that dang nut off a quarter turn at a time.

Probably one of the easiest rover jobs so far.

 

[QUOTE=Madlands;511060]Just did this a couple hours ago. Took just a little over an hour for me. Woulda been much much quicker with an 18mm ratcheting wrench. The top nut takes forever if you're just using a regular 18mm wrench. Prolly spent 10-12min getting that dang nut off a quarter turn at a time.

Probably one of the easiest rover jobs so far.[/QUOTE

I pulled my airbox out and hit the driver side one from the top with an 18 mm hinged gear wrench. It took no more than a minute to get the nut off. That one $24 tool cuts so much time off that job, I would highly recommend purchasing it.

 

Well if I ever have to do it again then I'll definantly invest in one. Going into it I felt people had just exaggerated how tough that was and being 45min drive, one way, from the closest part store with that wrench I took my sweet time. So anyone else that reads this and is considering this job GET THE WRENCH.