Motor Mounts 'How To"
Rock Crawling
Joined: Feb 2015
Posts: 338
Likes: 63
From: Upstate South Carolina
I saw one comment about after market vs OEM motor mounts. Given the price difference is the OEM that much better/different? I've seen photos of both and it's tough to tell them apart. Thoughts? Thank you.
Camel Trophy
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 3,885
Likes: 955
From: Charlotte
It's doubtful there is any meaningful difference.
The aftermarket mounts I bought appear well made, but time will tell.
The answer for you may also be dependent upon how you drive your truck and how long you plan to own it. Severe off-road use puts more stress on the mounts than "normal" driving.
If you are doing or planning to do a lot of severe off-road driving you may want to consider some of the even higher-performance mounts that are available. If not I'd say just go with the All-Makes or the Eurospares.
The aftermarket mounts I bought appear well made, but time will tell.
The answer for you may also be dependent upon how you drive your truck and how long you plan to own it. Severe off-road use puts more stress on the mounts than "normal" driving.
If you are doing or planning to do a lot of severe off-road driving you may want to consider some of the even higher-performance mounts that are available. If not I'd say just go with the All-Makes or the Eurospares.
4wd Low
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 13
Likes: 3
2000 Land Rover Disc II motor mounts <-- Bringing this one back one more time. My LR now has 235K miles, and after changing out the knock sensors, I spotted the driver side motor mount looked separated from the steel bracket. Seeing as its now 22 years old, and looks cracked, I bought both. I should order the transmission mounts as well. I will attack the motor mounts this weekend. I have this strange knocking sound when I turn the wheel hard in either direction. Also, if I'm at a stop and idling for too long, this terrible sound starts creeping up. Like if there was someone under my car with a steel hammer with a steady knocking beat. I really hope it has to do with the motor mounts.
235K miles, no major new parts. Just put in a new front drive shaft last year. I'm aiming for 300,000 miles. Anyone else out there running original parts with no major repairs and near this mile marker? Curious how much longer I can make this LR go. I bought it in 2004 with 36,000 miles. We've come a long way on miles and still every time I walk up to it, I feel like a kid in a candy store.
235K miles, no major new parts. Just put in a new front drive shaft last year. I'm aiming for 300,000 miles. Anyone else out there running original parts with no major repairs and near this mile marker? Curious how much longer I can make this LR go. I bought it in 2004 with 36,000 miles. We've come a long way on miles and still every time I walk up to it, I feel like a kid in a candy store.
Last edited by 2000DiscII; Feb 9, 2022 at 02:04 AM.
Camel Trophy
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 3,969
Likes: 859
From: Britainistan, UK
I always wondered too if I should have replaced the tranny mounts at the same time of engine mount replacement.
From my experience of replacing the V8 motor mounts I ended up buying the mounts for a 300 TDI part #NTC9416 w/ new M10 nuts. The 300 mounts supposedly have thicker density rubber than the V8 mounts and they fit perfectly. For me, the RH side of the engine was easier to replace than the LH side.
Though it sounds crazy to lift the engine from the upper part of the oil sump, it worked well for me. I added a block of 4x4 wood on the jack pad to cushion and support the engine’s weight when lifted. When jacking the engine, be aware of the SAI piping and wires at the top rear of the engine at the firewall. They could get pinched or bent.
From my experience of replacing the V8 motor mounts I ended up buying the mounts for a 300 TDI part #NTC9416 w/ new M10 nuts. The 300 mounts supposedly have thicker density rubber than the V8 mounts and they fit perfectly. For me, the RH side of the engine was easier to replace than the LH side.
Though it sounds crazy to lift the engine from the upper part of the oil sump, it worked well for me. I added a block of 4x4 wood on the jack pad to cushion and support the engine’s weight when lifted. When jacking the engine, be aware of the SAI piping and wires at the top rear of the engine at the firewall. They could get pinched or bent.
Recovery Vehicle
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 962
Likes: 90
From: Southern OR
I had to make a short open end wrench to do the drivers side mount last month. I've done probably 4 motor mount jobs on discos and it's always a pain. lol. I think I'll order the 18mm ratchet wrench the next time I do a set. The issue doing this job is having too long of wrenches in the tool box...
Mudding
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 115
Likes: 11
From: Fishkill, NY
Just Ordered from Rovers North 9-19-22 These are Proline parts not LR OEM but i was told these are just as good. They use them on their own vehicles.
1 MOUNTING RUBBER RH GRBOX DISCOVERY II PLL417 1= $18.54
2 MOUNTING RUBBER LH GRBOX DISCOVERY II PLL424 1= $20.55
3 ENGINE MOUNT DISCOVERY II PLL519 2 = $25.65 TL = $51.30
Both my Engine and Gearbox mounts failed during a very minor front to rear end collision into a Pick up truck. Minor damage to the Disco other than destroyed plastic on bumper. My excuse to buy a Steel one
However yeah the 18 year old mounts just sheared... and the engine and trans moved forward about 1-1/2 to 2" Luckily did not fall off mounts.
Think i'm going to let the Pros handle this since the engine has to be realigned back to the mounts.
1 MOUNTING RUBBER RH GRBOX DISCOVERY II PLL417 1= $18.54
2 MOUNTING RUBBER LH GRBOX DISCOVERY II PLL424 1= $20.55
3 ENGINE MOUNT DISCOVERY II PLL519 2 = $25.65 TL = $51.30
Both my Engine and Gearbox mounts failed during a very minor front to rear end collision into a Pick up truck. Minor damage to the Disco other than destroyed plastic on bumper. My excuse to buy a Steel one
However yeah the 18 year old mounts just sheared... and the engine and trans moved forward about 1-1/2 to 2" Luckily did not fall off mounts.
Think i'm going to let the Pros handle this since the engine has to be realigned back to the mounts.
1st Gear
Joined: Mar 2024
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Ok guys, Here is my how to instructions for changing your motor mounts on a LAnd Rover Discovery II 2004. I think it should apply to most models. This is the first time i ever did this. My skills are limited what i read and learn threw this forum. It was easy and strait forward but location of one nut took hours. They say 4 to 5 hours at the dealer and they sell the mounts for $140.00 per mount. You need two. I got mine from a Indy rover place in miami for $40.00 each and did it myself so i saved bigtime. Give your self a day to do. It will take a half day if you do better with the one nut that only has access with a open end wrench and small plyers. "PLEASE BE VERY CARFULL WITH YOUR FINGERS" ...YOU HAVE A ENGINE LIFTED ABOVER YOUR FINGERS AND NEED TO PLACE THESE MOUNTS BELOW THIS LIFTED ENGINE" TRUST NOTHING.. TAKE YOUR TIME..
My step one was to get the mounts.
I got them at Miami Rovers as i do most of my parts.
Next was to lift truck up on floor jacks. i lifted the truck under the front diff and slid a floor jack under the passenger side. I then put the jack under the drivers side aand then place one also. I put the emergency brake on and wood chocks behind the rear wheels
The tools you will need are pictured here. I used a combination of 1/2" and 3/8" sockets. The 1/2" was so i could use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts and then 3/8" to remove them as it was easier to get around. You will need the attachments i pictured so you can angle them in place. It would help by using a break free penitrator the night before to help loosen the nuts. The open end wrench and small plyers are used for the top nut on the drivers side mount. It's the only tools that would fit in that space and you can only get 1" turns. It was a big pain in the *** so do this mount last.
Step 2:Position a floor jack underneith the sump pump with 5 2"X4" pieces. I only lifted the car about 4 inches as i was laying on moving blanket and i didnt want to reach to get to the mount. It may take less depending on how much you lift the truck. My lifting point was between the cross member and the steering bar. if you try to jack the engine back on the sump you wont be able to get it high enough to get the mounts out. I didnt screw the 2"X4" blocks together as i didnt want them to start tilting as i jacked up the engine.
Step 3: Pasenger side mount. loosen the two nuts on the mount. I used 3"/8" on the top nut and 1"/2" on the bottom nut as i had more room. For the top nut i attached a long socket and expension to get more leverage for the 3"/8" socket set like a breaker bar. You will need short 18mm socket for the top nuts and 18mm long sockets for the bottom nuts as the screw from the motor mount sticks out further.
Step 4: After you get the nuts off take them and run them over the new mount screws a couple time so you will be able to finger tighten then which will help get them back on. I didnt take the nuts off the drivers side when i did the passenger side. Start jacking the engine untill you see the mount comming off. It takes a bit for it to move. When it clears and you will have to check with each crank of the jack, lift the mount up and off. " BE CARFULL WITH WHERE YOU FINGERS ARE". Tighten the top nut first as there is a dowel with the screw and need to be in the bracket as well a heat shield. Hand tighten so the dowel is in the right place and then slowly lower the engine... Slowly... untill the bottom screw lowers them the hole on the bracket. Make sure the mount looks like it's sitting correctly and then tighten the nuts. I used hand tightening as what i thought they where when i got them off. You can use a torq wrench if you can get it in the space. Ok one done...
Step 4: I used 1"/2" on the bottom nut on the drivers side bottom nut. You will use the long sockets on the bottom bolts again. The top nut, well... a socket fits in there but no way to get a socket wrench in there. I guess i could of taken the mount off the cylinder . There is 4 bolts that hold the mount to the engine but i was worried that i would not be able to line back up with the limited tools i have at my house and i was doing myself. You will see by one of my attached pictures the 12 point wrench with the other end open sticking out of the upper mount to turn the nut. I finally figured out that once you get the nut loose you can go to the top of the engine, remove the air to intake pipe and you will have access to the mount from the top. i got the open end wrench in there once but it took forever to get a 1 inch turn. I finally figured out tha with small plyers you can get the nut off that way. Roughs up the nut a bit but i took that nut and put on the bottom . After you have nuts off, jack engine untill you can lift mount up and off. this seemed a little harder i dont know why. When you put this mount on you will have to lock it in place as the dowel is on the top. This is why running the nuts over the mount screws will help you here. Tighten by hand and a couple turns with the plyers and it should be good enough to lower. Make sure the dowel is in before you lower it.
Step 5: I call this step 5 as i had to get the engine over a bit to the passenger side to make the mounts screw go in the hole. i also did have the bottom nut on the passenger side but at the bottom to give me more engine lift height. 5 used ,pictured with my tools, a small crow bar to pry the mount as it was lowered so the screw went in the bracket hole. You will see when you are at this point as the mount screw and bracket hole do not line up. About a inch off. Just release the jack very slowly as you pry with the mount to get the bottom screw threw. There you are done.
Dont forget to hit the fuel shut off on the fire wall passenger side as mine had somehow shut off durring this process. If you have any question shoot me a email and i would be happy to help you out.
Have fun.... Chris
My step one was to get the mounts.
I got them at Miami Rovers as i do most of my parts.
Next was to lift truck up on floor jacks. i lifted the truck under the front diff and slid a floor jack under the passenger side. I then put the jack under the drivers side aand then place one also. I put the emergency brake on and wood chocks behind the rear wheels
The tools you will need are pictured here. I used a combination of 1/2" and 3/8" sockets. The 1/2" was so i could use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts and then 3/8" to remove them as it was easier to get around. You will need the attachments i pictured so you can angle them in place. It would help by using a break free penitrator the night before to help loosen the nuts. The open end wrench and small plyers are used for the top nut on the drivers side mount. It's the only tools that would fit in that space and you can only get 1" turns. It was a big pain in the *** so do this mount last.
Step 2:Position a floor jack underneith the sump pump with 5 2"X4" pieces. I only lifted the car about 4 inches as i was laying on moving blanket and i didnt want to reach to get to the mount. It may take less depending on how much you lift the truck. My lifting point was between the cross member and the steering bar. if you try to jack the engine back on the sump you wont be able to get it high enough to get the mounts out. I didnt screw the 2"X4" blocks together as i didnt want them to start tilting as i jacked up the engine.
Step 3: Pasenger side mount. loosen the two nuts on the mount. I used 3"/8" on the top nut and 1"/2" on the bottom nut as i had more room. For the top nut i attached a long socket and expension to get more leverage for the 3"/8" socket set like a breaker bar. You will need short 18mm socket for the top nuts and 18mm long sockets for the bottom nuts as the screw from the motor mount sticks out further.
Step 4: After you get the nuts off take them and run them over the new mount screws a couple time so you will be able to finger tighten then which will help get them back on. I didnt take the nuts off the drivers side when i did the passenger side. Start jacking the engine untill you see the mount comming off. It takes a bit for it to move. When it clears and you will have to check with each crank of the jack, lift the mount up and off. " BE CARFULL WITH WHERE YOU FINGERS ARE". Tighten the top nut first as there is a dowel with the screw and need to be in the bracket as well a heat shield. Hand tighten so the dowel is in the right place and then slowly lower the engine... Slowly... untill the bottom screw lowers them the hole on the bracket. Make sure the mount looks like it's sitting correctly and then tighten the nuts. I used hand tightening as what i thought they where when i got them off. You can use a torq wrench if you can get it in the space. Ok one done...
Step 4: I used 1"/2" on the bottom nut on the drivers side bottom nut. You will use the long sockets on the bottom bolts again. The top nut, well... a socket fits in there but no way to get a socket wrench in there. I guess i could of taken the mount off the cylinder . There is 4 bolts that hold the mount to the engine but i was worried that i would not be able to line back up with the limited tools i have at my house and i was doing myself. You will see by one of my attached pictures the 12 point wrench with the other end open sticking out of the upper mount to turn the nut. I finally figured out that once you get the nut loose you can go to the top of the engine, remove the air to intake pipe and you will have access to the mount from the top. i got the open end wrench in there once but it took forever to get a 1 inch turn. I finally figured out tha with small plyers you can get the nut off that way. Roughs up the nut a bit but i took that nut and put on the bottom . After you have nuts off, jack engine untill you can lift mount up and off. this seemed a little harder i dont know why. When you put this mount on you will have to lock it in place as the dowel is on the top. This is why running the nuts over the mount screws will help you here. Tighten by hand and a couple turns with the plyers and it should be good enough to lower. Make sure the dowel is in before you lower it.
Step 5: I call this step 5 as i had to get the engine over a bit to the passenger side to make the mounts screw go in the hole. i also did have the bottom nut on the passenger side but at the bottom to give me more engine lift height. 5 used ,pictured with my tools, a small crow bar to pry the mount as it was lowered so the screw went in the bracket hole. You will see when you are at this point as the mount screw and bracket hole do not line up. About a inch off. Just release the jack very slowly as you pry with the mount to get the bottom screw threw. There you are done.
Dont forget to hit the fuel shut off on the fire wall passenger side as mine had somehow shut off durring this process. If you have any question shoot me a email and i would be happy to help you out.
Have fun.... Chris
Last edited by danyellz; Mar 25, 2024 at 05:11 PM.