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  #21  
Old 05-21-2010, 09:53 PM
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Originally Posted by TBIAgent69
I was doing a lot of research on how to make our engines not suck so bad....

I am 99% sure that the buick 350 will have the same bolt pattern as ours. The crank will supposedly drop in to our blocks too, but since ours uses has a longer crank snout I am still trying to finger out how to get it to work with the LR oil pump and pulley assembly. The stroke of the motor is also so long that the pistons and rod bolts need to be clearanced, BUT it will get something like 348CU out of our motors. I am still researching out whether we will need shorter rods (guessing we do). Also, I am going to look in to shortening the stroke by offset grinding, but I don't know if it is worth it.
I would look in to putting a different motor, but I really don't want to have to mess with the fuel management system. If I could get a ford 4.6 or 5.4 to mate up to the trans and work with the fuel injection, I would probably go that route. The 350 crank just seems like the most cost effective solution...

Has anyone tried to wet sleeve our engines?


That's kind of my point, do you want to re-invent the wheel?

Or do you want to eliminate the potential weak links?

Stick too much torque into these, now you're into axles, u-joints, suspension, brakes, probable trans since you aren't going to drive it gently.

It weighs more, now, it's a gas pig, so you don't use it as a daily driver.

You'll invest $15k in time and material that you'll never recover, to be passed by some knucklehead in an '87 K-5 with a big block and everything is over-the-counter.

If you've got the where-with-all, go nuts - I've been there, wish I could do it over.

let us know how it goes,please

luck,greg
 
  #22  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:23 PM
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  #23  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:29 PM
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This has helped me solve some of the mysteries surrounding a swap:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...using_patterns

It appears that pre-65 was a different bellhousing. However we know that some of the later cranks work (ie. the 300). I am looking for a complete iron head/block.
 
  #24  
Old 05-21-2010, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by greg409

WOW

$2500 for a reman'd buick 340 that will drop right in?!?
 
  #25  
Old 05-21-2010, 11:05 PM
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Originally Posted by d2luvr
This has helped me solve some of the mysteries surrounding a swap:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of...using_patterns

It appears that pre-65 was a different bellhousing. However we know that some of the later cranks work (ie. the 300). I am looking for a complete iron head/block.
Yeah I unfortunately came across the same info. The 215 had one bellhousing bolt pattern while the Buick 300, 340 and 350 had the BOP pattern. RS
 
  #26  
Old 05-21-2010, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Rearden Steel
Yeah I unfortunately came across the same info. The 215 had one bellhousing bolt pattern while the Buick 300, 340 and 350 had the BOP pattern. RS
So does that mean the LR engine and the BOP pattern are different?
 
  #27  
Old 05-22-2010, 09:10 AM
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Originally Posted by TBIAgent69
When you say you converted to non SAI, do you mean you deleted the system from your vehicle, or did you put a non SAI engine in your vehicle, or what. I would like to scrap my SAI system but I wasn't sure if there was something that needed to be done with the computer... I would really like for you to let me know. Thanks!
I put an 4.6L with sai into my disco that didn't originally have sai. So I did away with sai on the new engine by removing all the sai attachments, and then tapped the sai ports for flanged bolts to seal them off and installed them back in the heads. It's easy. In fact, the only difference between the wiring harness for the 4.6 and the 4.0 without sai was one connector for the sai plug on the left side of the intake manifold, and the temp sensor in the intake, which uses a different connector.

I have a theory on how to convert an sai disco to non sai though. You would remove all the sai associated junk from the engine bay, then do what I did to seal off the sai ports on the engine. And you would get a check engine light for your time and effort from the stock ecu. But, since all the disco 2 ecus are programmed for the 4.6, my bet is that if you installed a 99-02 ecu without sai, you would be set.

There are a couple of considerations though. When I did my swap, someone on this board told me the ecu and throttle position sensor needed to stay together, or the ecu would have to be reprogrammed for the tps. I'm not sure if this is the case, as my ecu and tps stayed together. The temp sensor is also different on the newer motor and I'm not sure if it plays well with the older ecu, it probably does but if not, you'd have to change that as well.
 
  #28  
Old 05-22-2010, 11:49 AM
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Originally Posted by TBIAgent69
So does that mean the LR engine and the BOP pattern are different?
They are different. A 300/340/350 will NOT bolt up. However, it would seem the original Buick or Olds 215 will, for what that's worth.

To Greg's point, I would not recommend trying to put in a 350HP Buick (or any other motor). You will spend a fortune and end up breaking things down stream. However, if you could basically switch to a Buick 300 cast iron block and heads, similar HP and torque, yet retain the current engine ecu/fuel management system etc...........that may be worth doing. Bolting up to the transmission is the first issue that needs to be solved.

I have yet to find the transmission/bell housing dimmensions for the 215 or 300/340/350 BOP on line. RS
 
  #29  
Old 05-22-2010, 04:50 PM
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you could just go and buy the toddco 5.0 ho engine.

http://www.toddcosuspensions.com/laroen.html


I talked to Todd and he assured me of its power and reliability.

I believe he can re-program the ecu for this swap...at least I know on a D1....


Im happy I have a D1.....lol....when my engine poops this the most likly the route that im going to go....
 
  #30  
Old 05-22-2010, 08:52 PM
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the Toddco is interesting, it all is for that matter, my point is if you think you'll be using it as a daily driver, think long and hard about the cost return. (Although I never did when I was younger, LOL)

If you're building a competative truck, go for it.

BTW, I think the 300 crank is longer at the back by 1/2" , tho' that might be perfect for an adapter plate/trans setup.

luck,greg
 


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