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My compression test results 😔

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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 05:31 PM
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Default My compression test results 😔

1=180 3=150 5=140 7=170 8=30😳 6=180 4=160 2=180
Put a bit (ok too much I think) of oil in #8 to test if it was the rings. Initially it jumped to 200 and would drop back to 30 after cranking. After I got much of the oil out it would mostly go from 90 and sit at 30 after cranking. My compression gauge does have an O ring btw.
Head gasket for sure?
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 06:46 PM
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The "for sure" test would be a leak down test. You know you have a problem on 8, but now you need to know what.

More than likely it is HG as its the back near the water jacket.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 09:01 PM
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Originally Posted by abran
The "for sure" test would be a leak down test. You know you have a problem on 8, but now you need to know what.

More than likely it is HG as its the back near the water jacket.
I don't think it is at the water jacket because I am not loosing any coolant
When I had it running it I could hear a puff or a pop from around #8.
I read somewhere that might be and indication of the cam being ground down.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 10:28 PM
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A leak down test would tell you if it's an exhaust valve, intake valve, or going into the coolant.

The valves could point to a cam lobe.
 

Last edited by abran; Aug 4, 2016 at 10:31 PM.
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoBuckeye
1=180 3=150 5=140 7=170 8=30😳 6=180 4=160 2=180
Put a bit (ok too much I think) of oil in #8 to test if it was the rings. Initially it jumped to 200 and would drop back to 30 after cranking. After I got much of the oil out it would mostly go from 90 and sit at 30 after cranking. My compression gauge does have an O ring btw.
Head gasket for sure?
Ideally I would be looking for a very maximum of 10% lower than than the highest test pressure. Check the RAVE spec for the test design pressure also.

IMO it could be piston rings but I would put my money on valve seating correctly. If only rings were worn and losing pressure evenly the whole test would be similar. IMO it's more likely a coked up valve or bad valve seating caused by a bent valve stem or even a loose valve seat. In any event the heads need to come off so it's worth testing the valves and new stem seals fitted.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 08:46 AM
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I will start the disassembly this weekend. Any thoughts either way on using ARP studs?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 04:50 AM
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Originally Posted by DiscoBuckeye
I will start the disassembly this weekend. Any thoughts either way on using ARP studs?
ARP bolts are good provided they come at the right price, but ensure they are genuine not fakes. TIP: I always liberally greased (just a smear of grease) the bolt stems with high melting point white grease to avoid seizures between the alloy head and bolt. Ensure you follow the bolt/tightening torquing procedure correctly (checkout the RAVE Manual).

Fit new gaskets everywhere especially head gaskets. Victor Reinz HG's are good to go.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 10:44 AM
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Did you prop the throttle body open?

Did you crank the engine the same amount of times on each cylinder?

There are wrong ways to do a pressure test.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 11:31 AM
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Yes and No I'm not sure I have heard of having the TB open as being critical (that is not meant as an arrogant response I just remember only handful of conversations about it)
Originally Posted by shanechevelle
Did you prop the throttle body open?

Did you crank the engine the same amount of times on each cylinder?

There are wrong ways to do a pressure test.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 01:30 PM
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How does the engine suck in the air needed to get a good reading with the flap closed?
 
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