Is my Disco 2 worth fixing?
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 27
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Is my Disco 2 worth fixing?
I bought a 2002 disco 2 with around 110,000 miles on it for $3,500. It runs well and drives nice except for a couple of minor old car kinks - or so I thought. Interior is in great shape and everything works
I took it to the mechanic to have him evaluate what it needed (intending to do all to work myself). Here is the list he said:
1) Power steering pressure line leaking
2) Steering box leaking bad
3) valve cover gaskets leaking bad
4) power steering pump leaking bad
5) Crank seal leaking bad
6) All ball joints shot
7) shock bushings shot
8) frame support rotted out
9) frame rotted bad
10) Fluid everywhere below
Now his comments makes it sound like it’s falling apart. Certainly rust on lower parts of vehicle but previous owner welded support in rear frame where it was rotting out. Here is my question: I can do all of the work above (I think). Is my disco worth putting the time and parts into it? Or are these the type of structural issues indicating that the car is falling apart and doesn’t have much life left, so sell and get another with more potential life? And how much time/money do you think is needed for the list above?
Since you said "mechanic", I am guessing you are not going to do it yourself. The danger is one day it gets hard to get inspected unless you register it in a state which does not require inspection. Any other money you put in it is at risk. Frames can be changed or repaired, but that is not free either.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 1,288
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Almost anything can be fixed, depends on what you want to spend and how much you want to keep this Disco...And it looks pretty nice from your pic. It's just a question of will you become that guy! Will you become that owner who cleans up after all the previous owners!
Post some pics of the rust. Let's see how bad it looks....
Out of your list of issues, the hardest to get to is the (not specified) crank seal. If it's front crank seal, not too bad for shop to do. Rear is much harder. Everything else can be done at any good shop (preferably familiar with LR's) for a few g's(probably just under the purchase price). You may also need control arm bushings...or have to pick up a used steering box.......
Post some pics of the rust. Let's see how bad it looks....
Out of your list of issues, the hardest to get to is the (not specified) crank seal. If it's front crank seal, not too bad for shop to do. Rear is much harder. Everything else can be done at any good shop (preferably familiar with LR's) for a few g's(probably just under the purchase price). You may also need control arm bushings...or have to pick up a used steering box.......
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Drifting
Joined: Apr 2018
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I plan on doing most if not all of the work in the above. As long as there’s a tutorial or video, I can usually do it...just don’t know enough to make the original assessment.
I guess my predicimate is I could sell this and get a Disco 2 with a little more long term potential. Or I could do the work on this and hope it doesn’t fall apart. I just don’t want to put a bunch of money/time into something if it doesn’t have much life left in it. Also, I want to use this a weekend adventure vehicle and I don’t want to end up stuck in the woods.. I know there’s no guarantees with land rovers but still. I think the ball joint/frame issues are my biggest concern.
I’ll post some pics of the rust tomorrow. The mechanic I took it to is good in the sense they usually work on pretty nice cars. So I’m hoping his assessment was just overly critical.
I guess my predicimate is I could sell this and get a Disco 2 with a little more long term potential. Or I could do the work on this and hope it doesn’t fall apart. I just don’t want to put a bunch of money/time into something if it doesn’t have much life left in it. Also, I want to use this a weekend adventure vehicle and I don’t want to end up stuck in the woods.. I know there’s no guarantees with land rovers but still. I think the ball joint/frame issues are my biggest concern.
I’ll post some pics of the rust tomorrow. The mechanic I took it to is good in the sense they usually work on pretty nice cars. So I’m hoping his assessment was just overly critical.
Pro Wrench
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 1,516
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From: SE PA
Excluding 8 and 9, I'd suspect this guy may not be a Land Rover mechanic. And perhaps a bit alarmist. How about "needs replacing" instead of shot. They way I interpret what he wrote you should be seeing multiple 3"-6" stains under the truck every time you park it overnight. A wet undercarriage with a couple tiny drips on the ground seems to be the norm for many old Discos, and possibly something he's not comfortable with. And setting the stage for some expensive repairs. I'd definitely get a second opinion, and show the next guy this first report and ask him to perhaps quantify the descriptions into clearer language. Maybe the first guy is spot on but your mileage is pretty low for such a report, although that alone doesn't mean much.
As for 8 and 9, anything can be fixed however that type of repair is not something many shade tree mechanics can or should tackle on their own. If the frame is bad up in front of the rear suspension mounts and you have to do the whole rear section then you are locating the position of the rear axle when you replace this much metal and that requires some precision work. If it's simply some flaking or minor holes in the crescent between the bumper and the shocks that can be corrected by welding in some patches then that's a different story but again, if you don't know how to weld then you're at the mercy of someone else and whatever they charge. Frame rust severity should be pretty evident, light bubbling that can be scraped or ground away and painted/sealed is a minor affair however that's not typically the case with these trucks. If you search the internet (and this site) you'll find plenty of examples of what's acceptable or not. Either way, it's not something that should be taken lightly as it can turn the truck into a total loss. My guess is your first mechanic a bit excitable overall so you should look to someone else for additional info.
As for 8 and 9, anything can be fixed however that type of repair is not something many shade tree mechanics can or should tackle on their own. If the frame is bad up in front of the rear suspension mounts and you have to do the whole rear section then you are locating the position of the rear axle when you replace this much metal and that requires some precision work. If it's simply some flaking or minor holes in the crescent between the bumper and the shocks that can be corrected by welding in some patches then that's a different story but again, if you don't know how to weld then you're at the mercy of someone else and whatever they charge. Frame rust severity should be pretty evident, light bubbling that can be scraped or ground away and painted/sealed is a minor affair however that's not typically the case with these trucks. If you search the internet (and this site) you'll find plenty of examples of what's acceptable or not. Either way, it's not something that should be taken lightly as it can turn the truck into a total loss. My guess is your first mechanic a bit excitable overall so you should look to someone else for additional info.