Not that it really matters but...Are you keeping this truck down there to drive, or are you going to sell it?

 

I'm using the Victor Reinz head gasket kit off of Amazon. I read that it was a quality gasket. I looked for Land Rover head gasket by Cometic but couldn't find any. They looked interesting with the dual-Viton surfaces, but time-wise I just can't change the brand at this point.

In regards to the start up, I'm kind of confused by adjusting the pre-load. I read that they sell shims for the rockers to use, but are you saying I can adjust by tightening and loosening the rocker bolts? Can you elaborate on how to adjust the preload?

Thank you for your input.

Keeping to drive. I will be constructing rental apartment buildings for my family for the foreseeable future. Truck will be used for personal transport in city stop-and-go traffic, weekend trips to the ranch, hauling a trailer with electric brakes occasionally, and hauling tools or misc. construction materials in the back or on the roof rack I plan to weld down there (metal is about 1/3 of the price there).

As far as any mechanical issues, if I don't have time to wrench on it myself, a mechanic only costs about $12-30 US dollars PER DAY. An experienced welder is about $25-40 USD PER DAY. A complete respray, done properly (including color-sanding and polishing), is about $400 for labor including trim removal - you supply whatever paint you want (2K products or the more popular lacquer).

 

Wow nicely done and great pics.

As others have said though, i would be a bit concerned with the steam cleaned cylinder.
The coolant ports are at the ends of the block, so how would water get in that cylinder unless the block/head has been somehow compromised

 

Well, I did some more reading and looks like I'm going to try and pressure-test it before continuing. I read this thread: Steam Cleaned Cylinder - Land Rover Forums : Land Rover and Range Rover Forum and will see if my machine shop can pressure test it. Or is it something I can do at home and how? I have a 33 gallon 150 psi air compressor I can use.

If it is corroded behind a liner, as I've read can happen, then it looks like I'll need to replace the block. If it is a pin-hole, can it be re-sleeved? How about a dye test?

If it is a cracked block or slipped liner - can I just repin my liners or how much would it be to top-hat all 8 cylinders?

This really sucks.

 

You want the lifter cup to move downward about .060 of an inch at the base circle of the cam. If it moves down to far you can use a shim to raise the cup back up. I think you can find the information in the RAVE manual. You should read it for answers to your questions. My system is completely different with the roller rocker arms, and a bit easier to set preload on each lifter.

I used Victor Rienz as well, BUT I have top hatted the block, so my situation is completely different.

MAK.

 

you might be able to rig something up like they did in this video to test the block.

 

Here is what I did on my block. 3 videos. Sorry for the poor video skills. This was before I had a good camera and any skills.

 

Thanks! I think what I'm going to do differently is to put a Halogen shop light on the cylinder that was steam-cleaned. PTSchram recommended that as blocks can pass a pressure test when cold and then when heated, fail. If I find that there is a crack behind the aluminum, I will put the block on my propane grill and heat it up as shown in another forum. Then I will see if I can remove all the sleeves, and order new top-hatted ones with an o-ring on the bottom to prevent coolant leaks into the crank area. If I am able to remove the old liners, I will save on machine shop cost and they will just press them in an hone or bore them to the stock piston size.

I was looking at D&D Fabrications, GreatPlainsRovers, Darton Sleeves, or LA sleeves for the top-hatted/flanged liners. It seems LA sleeves lets you ship the block and for around $1,500 (figure taken from other forum users) they will remove the old liners, install the new ones, and deck the block and liners.

It would take too much time though to send it out, and pricey, even though it looks like I will have to reschedule my flight anyways.

In the meantime, I have gotten my garden sprayer to pump new diff fluid into both diffs and the transfer case. I will install the brake pads, turn the rotors, bleed the brake system, install the master cylinder rebuild kit, install an aftermarket 2-way alarm system, rebuild the driveshafts, paint the trim, install a DIY train horn system, and install an aftermarket touchscreen stereo and wire a backup camera into it. In South America, I will convert the truck to LPG (liquid propane gas), install LPG tanks where the main gasoline tank is, split the gas tank into 2 smaller tanks installed behind the rear wheels, and design and weld full metal front and rear bumpers.

Don't worry, I will post all of my findings regarding everything, including HOT pressure testing and, if needed, my attempt at liner/sleeve removal, in high definition videos and pics.

Anybody know where I can get sheets of rubber/gasket material like bosshogt used in his block pressure test? Is it something I could pick up at Home Depot or an industrial supply house like Grainger?

 

I think the odds of you having a slipped liner are low. They are talked about a lot on here because they are the ultimate rover horror story. But it would be wise to rule it out.

 

I got mine from a auto Machine shop For free. It was about 3/8" thick. Probably $10 or less if you ask the guys in the back. They honed, steam cleaned, the block for $75.